I haven't actually done anything yet, but I've been looking into a similar matter as I desperately want to add Bluetooth in a manner that will integrate into the existing system. The DNX-7100 seems to be the preferred avenue in Subby's for those wishing to maintain an OEM feel.

If it's of any help, I've been able to ascertain the following:

1) Are you talking about the optional subwoofer (SOA sub that installs underneath the passenger seat) or the rear subwoofer (in the cargo area). I believe the latter is a passive sub so if your A/M system has a sub channel, it should work fine. The optional sub is an active sub and simply piggybacks on the H/U's wiring harness to steal power and signal. With an A/M system, you may not be able to use the OEM harness, but the sub should work just by splicing a few wires for power and signal (or use sub preouts if installed).

2) I would have to think the DNX would be able to output the audio for the RSE, but getting the video to play on the front screen is probably a little bit more of a challenge (though if I had to place a wager, I'd think there's a way to make that happen).

3) The NAV system is completely independent from the H/U display... all it does it send an RGB signal to the H/U; all you need to update the nav unit is the most recent disks (v8.0). That said, doesn't the 7100 have built-in Nav?

Over on the Legacy forum, there is a thread about swapping the OEM DV3200 navigation unit for the Kenwood KNA-G520. (the "2" in 3200 and 520 simply denote the EU version, in the US, it would be DV3100 and G510). It seems that it would be compatible with the Tribeca, but the Legacy's OEM part number does not cross-reference with the Tribeca OEM part number, so YMMV.

Any videos you can post showing your 7100 in action would be appreciated.

 

Hey psy. I've got the sub under the seat. The system is a bit of a mess right now. I've got to pull it to replace the cracked touch screen anyway ($55 part), so figured I'd sort it while doing that. I've learned that the rear ent system has inputs, so I guess the logical approach would be to play a dvd from the head unit, and then it will display on both screens, and I can get around trying to get them to integrate. I can't imagine myself trying to deal with a movie from the back speakers, and music from the front working out. Cool thing is that my daughter could use the wireless headsets without making any changes! Maybe I'll change my mind once I get the head unit out. The DNX7100 has a lot of input/output options (not sure about the RES yet), and with that being said, there are a lot of different ways I could potentially set it all up.

NAV. I like the soobie unit because of the screen location. Looking down at the DNX is awkward, especially in traffic. Even if I have the most recent disks, wouldn't the factory head unit be needed for the install? It's not like I have any issues with the current maps...but updates are nice. I will admit that I do like Garmin's menus better, but that's a small issue.

The original install of the DNX7100 was actually very well done. The dash looks great with the double 7" displays. The installer did a HORRIBLE job of running monster cables to the cargo area, however. I'll salvage the cables for other projects, but man are they HUGE in diameter. The carpet looks a mess on the passenger side (front) because he didn't use the channels Subaru put in place for wiring (there is plenty of space within them).

 

In thinking about this, one thing that would be really cool would be to have an A/V adapter for my phone and tablet to display Torque Pro info on the DNX. Hmmmm.

 

I have a Kenwood DNX-7100. It was in the car when I bought it.

Hi CCRScott,

Appreciate if you can post some photos of the DNX-7100. Im interested to see how this integrates into the Tribeca and to see if all the OEM buttons work with the DNX?

thanks

 

No OEM buttons. I'm not sure if a kit is available or if they custom made it.

 

do you know how they got around stock head unit/hvac control integration, did they leave stock unit in there somewhere or a custom bybass?

 

I'll know a little more about the install when I pull the head unit. The touch screen is cracked, so I'm waiting for the replacement to arrive before I yank it out. It's possible, and I suspect, that the dash was custom made. The color is very very slightly different, but not noticable unless you're really trying to see it. I have in the past seen kits for other cars that allow you to move all the controls over from the factory unit.

 

Never seen a kit like that for our Tribecas. It would be very interesting to know the source.

 

after looking here and thru wiring diagrams etc, I came to conclusion that there are basically two solutions, one the hack is to just move stock head unit lower inside the dash and jsut splice the new one in. Two would be a custom bypass to allow for power and signal to communicate properly between HVAC and remove the head unit altogether.
I am trying to do number two approach once im done with rally bars and roof basket. So any info would be really helpful.

 

I haven't seen a factory unit, but I bet the hvac controls are simply mounted on the same dash panel as the head unit and totally separate. I did an install in a friend's Ford taurus, and the heater controls were mounted on the same. I simply moved the controls/knobs over to the aftermarket kit.

In this case, I think they removed the radio guts and modified the panel for the double din. I'll know soon enough. I should have the touch screen any day now, and I'm looking forward to pulling it. From looking at the sides, I think the 6-disc changer is still installed, and I want to get that out to make more room for the spaghetti back there. It is packed in there VERY tightly.

 

unfortunately on tribeca there is only one connector afaik that connects face plate to the head unit, and HVAC juice runs thru it, and i believe but hopefully wrong, there are heatsinks regulators etc inside the HU that control the voltage and signals. I PMed a guy on this forum who had done one install himself but he hasn't been here in a few month.

 

Interesting on a non-nav car you have the 7 button key pad below the factory screen.

 

It has factory Nav.

 

well the changer can be easily disconnected from the original unit, it should not affect HVAC in any way, but the upper portion of the HU will still need to remain, I've been studying schematics for the last couple hours lol

 

The new touch screen came yesterday. I'll get some pics when I tear into it.

 

awesome, can't wait for your discoveries. by the way if anyone needs a schematic for 6 disc HU and face panel let me know.

 

Interesting...and very well done install. You're right Dodik. The factory radio is still there. You can see in the pics that they suspended it from install bars, and all the wires from the HVAC go down to it.

The dash is indeed custom made. I'm guessing they took the DNX7100 trim ring and bondo'ed it into the dash peice after cutting out the factory radio area. You can also see a pic of the backside of the console.

I didn't mess with the shop rag taped around the HVAC controls. LOL. I figure they put it there to keep anything from shorting the board.

Overall, I think they did an awesome job. I removed the iPod connection and plan to use the USB line, routed to the center console, with flash drives. I tested it with mp3 files and it works awesome.

Now that I've replaced the touch screen, I will indeed be using the DNX7100 NAV, which seems all too familiar (I also own a Nuvi). The CPU is faster to route, and nicer to use.

 

Very ambitious install. I wonder if a shop tackled that, or if it was down by the previous owner. Looks like they worked pretty hard to make it work. I guess everything isn't documented on the internet

 

this is the easier method, not really whole lot of engineering went into it.
Basically you take the old unit, (you can take the CD changer off or leave it in) and move it lower, take the upper PCB board that has the big connection and remove it from the face plate, insulate and move it lower(may/may not) need to get longer ribbon cables that connect upper PCB to two lower PCB's.
Now all the audio outputs are moved from old stereo onto the new, and you splice your power from old to new.
cut a whole in the face bondo/jb weld/plastic weld/paint and you are done.

thanks for the pics, i'll have a talk with one of the electrical guru's on the other forum see if he can find a more involved but cleaner solution.

 

Dammit.... now I'm getting ideas.