check your sway bar bushings and endlinks.

 

OK I'll try changing them. I noticed some minor wear evidenced by just a tiny bit of gapping around the bar, but didn't think that would make such a noticeable noise.

 

generally they make a thud sound when worn, but because they are worn that may create more stress on other components that will make another or a combo of sounds.

 

Any input on standard replacements vs the polyurethane?

 

Standard is the commonly accepted one. Poly can cause a lot of creaking unless regularly lubed.

 

Any luck diagnosing this? My '06 has this problem that gets worse as the weather gets colder. I recently replaced the front struts, sway bar end links, and have tried the OEM revised sway bar bushings and now Energy Suspension poly bushings. Creeking is still there going over bumps and when braking.

 

I would look at the bushings on the control arms since you've investigated everything else.

 

hmmm...I just did shocks and brakes at 107k.

the upper strut hat on the drivers side had a toasted bearing. the main offender for sure.

the lower control arm bushings and sway bushings where replaced at 60k so they are due...again. I might go with the perrin bushing on the front rear lca this time around.

most of the bushings on the rear links are done/torn/uncentered. new upper and lateral links are ordered and the toe link and trailing link will probably be soon to follow..in it for the long haul.

 

Creaks and groans

I have replaced everything in the front end. And I still have creaksand groans most notably at slow speeds and less than 5 miles an hour. Never notice it on the highway or around town driving.

Grown is common in turns or or sometimes when you shift momentum from front to back,such as backing into or out of the garage.

Not always there.

The only thing that hasn't been replaced was some sort of bearing( I've heard of it )it's the top of the front struts

This is been going on for 30 or 40,000 miles. Front struts of been replaced all the bushings of been replaced

Anyone have anything similar that they were able to fix?

 

my strut hat, the upper bearing, was finished.

if you have the tools, pull it out and see if it is smooth and the inner race stays in its plane. the old one was like a gimbal bearing filled with gravel.

 

strut hat



I think you have diagnosed my problem,

the grinding popping is mostly noticeable on low speed turns

I will have to get someone to help me, as this is beyond my skill set

thank you

 

Be safe.

ECS tuning has a nice spring tool available for a couple Benjamin's.

When I was twenty something, I shot a vw rabbit spring through a plywood ceiling...

 

I think the dangers of the strut spring are over stated. Cheap harbor freight compressors are all it takes and a little brain. You need to be aware of the potential danger, but it's no more than, say, using a torch on your car to heat up a bolt or crawling under you car on stands. Most DIYers are completely capable, but a few shouldn't be driving the car never mind crawling around under it.

 

Advice on fit

I found some good used struts 2008 with spring attached and the hat

Will this drop into a 2006? Rock auto shows the same strut number BUT the hat shows a different number. Seems odd

I am trying to go quick and not dismantle spring.

Dean

 

Creaks groans creaking all fixed!!!!!

I found some good used struts 2008 with spring attached and the hat

Will this drop into a 2006? Rock auto shows the same strut number BUT the hat shows a different number. Seems odd

I am trying to go quick and not dismantle spring.

Dean

I bought new rock auto
1: new kyb struts front only
2: new kyb top stut mounts front only
3: went ahead and did both front cv joint s w cheap surtract ($45 each) as I had a cracking boot on Oem( I kept oem axles in case I get the vibration issue reported by tdelker )
4: replaced energy sususpension polyurethane bushing on sway bar with rubber bushings

( all my other inner and outer tie rods , rearA arm bushings have all been replaced not long ago)

Success!!! After dealing with a creaky suspension that was driving me more crazy, it's all quiet and buttery smooth

My mechanic and friend did the work for me.

So 1-4 fixed the creaks

I always kept my sway bar greased...
I am most suspicious of the creak culprit being the polyurethane bushings and the strut hats

My car at 180k is tight, runs fabulous and is as good as "new"

Keeping it until the wheels fall off

 

Rear struts

Is a spring compressor needed to replace the rear struts .
Thanks

 

Yes, you need to compress the springs to replace the rear struts. It's easy. Harbor Freight has a good price for a set, but I haven't gotten them. Next time I need to do it, I'll get them

 

I had this same issue and before going the expensive route of struts and spring I replaced the bushings on the sway bar as well as the A arm noise has gone away.

Did the swap at home but needed to take the A arms into a shop to have the bushings pressed.

 

Exactly what I did a year ago with exactly the same results; however, I only changed the rear bushings on the LCAs... the front bushings (axle running parallel to the ground still had the paint mark on them leading me to believe they might not be original (they were OEM, however), but the guy at the machine shop told me that I was better off saving the $30 on press charges since they don't wear out like the rear bushings do.

The rear bushings, however, were torn up beyond all comprehension... I'm amazed that the rubber was still holding on to the center shaft.

So now I have a pair of brand new, uninstalled front LCA bushings sitting in my parts box. I'm not going to return them now (even though my local parts guy would probably still let me since the same bushing fits 622 model variants b/t '06-'16), so I figure at some point I'll acquire my own press and the bushings will be my excuse to play with my new toy.

Unless someone wants to make me an offer...

 

I always use autozone spring compressors, you pay for the tool, use it then bring it back for a full refund. its a decent quality, probably better than HF.

 

I had the same thing, especially in lower temperatures. Check your lower control arm bushings. It was the source of my awful squeak when hard braking at low speeds and bumps. Diagnosed by taking wheel off and moving them with a pry bar. Sprayed silicon on them and sound disappeared. Replacement forthcoming. The rubber is worn out in the veritical bushings on both sides.