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That is strange. You should get 12V between pins 6 and 7 when you use the passenger switch. May you are confused as to which side is 6-7 and which is 1-2? Try other ones on the same row, but other end:



I assume passenger window is working? If it is, and you see power at 6-7 when using the passenger switch, but no power at 1-2 when using driver, you need to replace the whole assembly, unless you want to have some fun and take it apart. I did, but there isn't much I could get at. The microswitch in there was too buried and I have no idea how to replace it.
Yeah, the passenger window, actually all other windows work fine. Just the drivers window. If I had time I'd take the assembly apart. I think I'll just swap it. I took the circuit board out of the housing and was testing the solder points and found that I had 12V on all switches except the driver side.

Oh, I did verify the passenger was 6-7. My mistake. But still zero at 1-2.
 

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Ah, that make sense. Some good posts above on excellent pricing for the assembly. Otherwise you need to figure out where the 12V goes that it doesnt show up at the switch.
 

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just clarifying one more thing

Ah, that make sense. Some good posts above on excellent pricing for the assembly. Otherwise you need to figure out where the 12V goes that it doesnt show up at the switch.
So, one last question - which part do I order? It looks like the AutoZone link is for the full assembly, but the Suburu parts breakdown seems to indicated I can order just the "main" section?

Thanks, I really do appreciate all the help with this.
 

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So, don't see what year your tribeca is.

06-07 = 83071XA00A
08+ = 83071XA07A

Realize it's not my $100 if I get the part number wrong so you should verify. Best place is at the dealer, but...

parts.subaru.com

quirkparts had some of the best pricing, but they show a wrong picture. As long as you order by part number you should be good.
 

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OK, so finally got the switch and swapped it, didn't fix the problem - so, I took the door apart and it turns out the 4 screws that hold the window mechanism in place came loose. It looks like the metal scissors mechanism has bent and, the power plug pulled out. So, I know why there was no power.

Any ideas on what to do - seems like the whole mechanism needs to be swapped but I have no idea how to get it out of the door. If I could screw it back in, I would, but I can't get the holes to line up.

Short term, I pushed the window up, and used a bunch of tie wraps to hold everything in place and tight against the door - this won't last, but it works for now...lol...duct tape, tie wraps, electrical tape, fixes everything
 

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Fix - Window doesnt go up or down

My drivers window would go down but I had to fuss with it to go back up. Since all the other switches worked fine I knew it wasn't a fuse.
I found the fix! The electrical contacts were dirty.

After removing the rubber insert at the bottom of the door handle, I removed the one phillips screw. The whole assembly pops out by lifting the rear most section first and sliding a screwdriver under the middle section to assist in it popping out. depress the tab on the wire connector and remove the switch assembly. There are now 2 screws that hold the switch to the cover plate. I removed these, but it may be possible without doing this step.
You will now notice that there are 4 tabs holding the clear/white electrical portion of the switch to the black housing. use a small screwdriver to lift the side of the black housing just enough to slip a business card between the white and black housing so it blocks the catch. Do all 4 catches, and the clear white piece will slide out easily. identify the position of each of the switch levers in the clear housing. (mark them)

I used a dremmel with a mini cutoff wheel to cut away a chunk of the clear plastic next the drivers window switch so I could access that switch. I sprayed the insides of that switch with Contact/Control Cleaner & Lubricant that I bought from Radio Shack. I moved the switch back and forth multiple times and spayed again.

Make sure the switch levers are all in the same position as when you separated the black piece from the clear piece. Now the clear electrical piece will snap back into the black housing. Mount the black housing onto the silver trim bezel. Reconnect the wire harness. Turn on the key and Confirm the windows all work. Insert the trim bezel front end first then drop the rear and secure with one screw.
Time: 30 mins to 45 mins.
It has been working perfectly for the past 4 months.
 

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I had issues similar to what everyone else in this thread described - intermittent window movement on the driver's side - moving the window down was difficult to do without tripping the auto down every time and it would hesitate and stutter heavily going back up.

I did exactly what GreggMI did - Electrical cleaner on the contacts inside the housing and I also sprayed down the black switch assembly with MAF cleaner (most plastic compatible cleaner I had on hand) since it was really dirty, too.

Everything works flawlessly now. Well- the driver's window switch is still a bit sticky (doesn't have that solid click like the others do) but no more electrical signal issues - the window goes up and down perfectly and I can use it without going auto-down every time now.
 

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I missed this thread!
I had similar issue on mine, after almost a couple of year of misuse while the car was waiting to be repaired after the accident. Opened it up, and cleaned with high-pressure air, and now it works flawlessly.
 

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I have the same issue with the drivers window not going up unless I really pull on the switch. Will take it apart tomorrow.
 

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Simple fix is to buy some electrical contact cleaner spray. Remove switch panel by lifting rubber cover in hand closing tray bottom; remove screw and lift out the switch unit starting at the rear. Once out, there are three screws holding the switch block (may be hidden by some black tape) -- remove them and lift off the switch block. On the sides of the block are 4 places with notches holding the switch block together -- slide a knife in those 4 places to release the plastic switch actuator buttons. Liberally spray the electrical cleaner into the slots on each side of the switch causing the problem. Further disassembly is possible -- reassembling may be difficult. When reassembling, be sure the finger switch slides in the part just sprayed are centered so they match up with the switch buttons. Test and repeat or reverse disassembly if OK. Worst case, buy a new switch block.
 

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I have the same issue with the drivers window not going up unless I really pull on the switch. Will take it apart tomorrow.
Took it apart a few days ago, everything ohmed ok so I put it back together.
Didn't do anything to it. It's been working fine for the last 3 days.

Anyone know what those 2 small connectors that are taped together that aren't connected to anything?
 

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My drivers window would go down but I had to fuss with it to go back up. Since all the other switches worked fine I knew it wasn't a fuse.
I found the fix! The electrical contacts were dirty.

After removing the rubber insert at the bottom of the door handle, I removed the one phillips screw. The whole assembly pops out by lifting the rear most section first and sliding a screwdriver under the middle section to assist in it popping out. depress the tab on the wire connector and remove the switch assembly. There are now 2 screws that hold the switch to the cover plate. I removed these, but it may be possible without doing this step.
You will now notice that there are 4 tabs holding the clear/white electrical portion of the switch to the black housing. use a small screwdriver to lift the side of the black housing just enough to slip a business card between the white and black housing so it blocks the catch. Do all 4 catches, and the clear white piece will slide out easily. identify the position of each of the switch levers in the clear housing. (mark them)

I used a dremmel with a mini cutoff wheel to cut away a chunk of the clear plastic next the drivers window switch so I could access that switch. I sprayed the insides of that switch with Contact/Control Cleaner & Lubricant that I bought from Radio Shack. I moved the switch back and forth multiple times and spayed again.

Make sure the switch levers are all in the same position as when you separated the black piece from the clear piece. Now the clear electrical piece will snap back into the black housing. Mount the black housing onto the silver trim bezel. Reconnect the wire harness. Turn on the key and Confirm the windows all work. Insert the trim bezel front end first then drop the rear and secure with one screw.
Time: 30 mins to 45 mins.
It has been working perfectly for the past 4 months.
I can't thank you enough for this! Recently purchased an 08 Tribeca and the switch was acting up shortly after I bought it. Thought I was going to have to spend a couple hundred dollars to replace it; but found this thread, followed your instructions and voila! works perfectly again. Much appreciated!
Loving my purchase btw! This is my fourth Subie and aside from a couple minor annoying problems all have served me very well and I'm sure the Tribeca will be no different.
 

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My driver's window switch has deteriorated to the point that I'm afraid we'll get stuck with the window down at the wrong time. I cleaned it about 1 year ago. Just ordering the part from quirkparts. I already replaced the passenger side for a similar issue that cleaning wasn't a permanent solution for.
 

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I'm experiencing the same issues. Hard to both open and close the window. Haven't tried cleaning the contacts yet. It'll be the first thing I try. It's a pity that you can't just swap out the faulty switch on the driver door but have to replace the whole set.
 

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My last vehicle was an '03 Infinity G35 and all the windows seemed to go up and down much faster on that car then any on my '09 Tribeca do. Just curious if the Subbies have extra slow motors, or if cleaning the contacts would speed them up at all. My window switches all work fine, windows are just slow. Has anyone whose cleaned the switches noticed if those windows go up and down any faster then the other window switches they haven't fiddled with?
 

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Doubt it's a switch issue, just a difference in design of the motor and gearing. I've experienced the same with various makes of cars.
 

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On my 08 I just took apart my drivers and passenger side window switch. They are easy to remove. There is little you can do with the full assembly on the drivers side. Once I got the white part out, you can't access the switches (at least not that i could figure it out. I don't think you can take the circuit board off to get to them. THey appear to be very different than the switch on the passenger side.

The passenger side can be disassembled down down to the copper leaf springs with the balls. I cleaned up the contacts and reassembled, but the switch still doesn't always work. I really needed some grease to reassemble. I would have put it on the balls and then put the balls on the springs letting the grease hold it in place. Since I didn't have that, I just carefully put it back together. I'll get some dielectric grease and take it apart again to see if I can get it to be more consistent. It's a pretty hocky switch if you ask me.
tdelker, It's been a while since I have visited, but I have a sticky driver's side switch and would like to try replacing it. I suspect that the issue is the switch and not the motor. Can you give me a tip on "popping" the switch panel to get to the switch underneath? I guess you might use a screwdriver and pry it up, but I did not want to crack it and replace it as well. Many thanks. Surprise28
 

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Just saw the description for removing the switch a few posts downstream. So, I located the hidden screw and am good to go now. Thanks for the helpful discussion!
 
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