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After 3 years our window switch finally got to the point it needed to be repaired. So I took it in for a new switch. It ran $275 which is a lot, but it was necessary.
 

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That's the difference between new parts at the dealership and DIY with used parts.
 

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On my 2007 the first one was under extended warranty, the 2nd time it happened, about 6 months ago, my friendly bodyshop replaced it for the cost of the part (about $125, it took the guy less than 15 mins to replace).
 

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On my 08 I just took apart my drivers and passenger side window switch. They are easy to remove. There is little you can do with the full assembly on the drivers side. Once I got the white part out, you can't access the switches (at least not that i could figure it out. I don't think you can take the circuit board off to get to them. THey appear to be very different than the switch on the passenger side.

The passenger side can be disassembled down down to the copper leaf springs with the balls. I cleaned up the contacts and reassembled, but the switch still doesn't always work. I really needed some grease to reassemble. I would have put it on the balls and then put the balls on the springs letting the grease hold it in place. Since I didn't have that, I just carefully put it back together. I'll get some dielectric grease and take it apart again to see if I can get it to be more consistent. It's a pretty hocky switch if you ask me.
 

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Wow, that is some really good pricing! Agreed, that's the part number for 06-07. The same part for the 08+ is $103, which is excellent. Also sub switch is $45, best price I've seen.
 

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What is the unused small connector used for? Shown taped to the wires.
Note you need to move the trim/switch assembly to the rear to un-clip the front from the door trim.
Interesting the Nissan emblem is in the white plastic on the bottom of the Assembly.
Installed the replacement from Quirk and it works like a champ! Ready for winter now, but at the moment it is pushing 70 degrees! Continental snow tires on all 4 corners!
Looking into the Nissan connection on Ebay, I wonder if this one will work, giving express-down to the passenger side...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-02-NISSAN-PATHFINDER-DRIVER-LEFT-SIDE-MASTER-POWER-WINDOW-SWITCH-/151801174194?fits=Make%3ANissan&hash=item23580e18b2:g:B9UAAMXQWzNSdUTY&vxp=mtr
There are other similar dual-express switches on ebay too...
 

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Hi guys...haven't been to this forum in awhile - my 2006 Tribeca's driver side window won't go up or down.

How can I determine if it's the switch vs. the motor or some other part of the assembly?

I didn't quite follow the pdf instructions in one of the first posts...

Thanks, I appreciate any guidance you guys can give me on this
 

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Basically you pull the combo switch, move the driver's side switch to up or down and see if you get 12V across pin 1 to 2. Usually probed through the back of the connector.

If you are familiar with the use of a multimeter, time to check youtube. Pretty easy and essential for diagnosis any electrical issue.

Good luck!

Tom
 

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Basically you pull the combo switch, move the driver's side switch to up or down and see if you get 12V across pin 1 to 2. Usually probed through the back of the connector.

If you are familiar with the use of a multimeter, time to check youtube. Pretty easy and essential for diagnosis any electrical issue.

Good luck!

Tom
thx...that's perfect...I'm fine with a meter, I just wasn't following something in the PDF. I'll test it out today and see what the story is.
 

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Basically you pull the combo switch, move the driver's side switch to up or down and see if you get 12V across pin 1 to 2. Usually probed through the back of the connector.

If you are familiar with the use of a multimeter, time to check youtube. Pretty easy and essential for diagnosis any electrical issue.

Good luck!

Tom
OK, so I do not get 12V across 1 to 2 when I flip the driver side switch. When I switch the passenger switch I get the 12V between 1 and 2.

For the rear windows I get the 12V between 1 and a different pin, I didn't write it down.

All the windows work except the driver side. Do I have to replace that whole sub assembly (Ckt board)?

thanks
 

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That is strange. You should get 12V between pins 6 and 7 when you use the passenger switch. May you are confused as to which side is 6-7 and which is 1-2? Try other ones on the same row, but other end:



I assume passenger window is working? If it is, and you see power at 6-7 when using the passenger switch, but no power at 1-2 when using driver, you need to replace the whole assembly, unless you want to have some fun and take it apart. I did, but there isn't much I could get at. The microswitch in there was too buried and I have no idea how to replace it.
 
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