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2007 Tribecca B9 and all windows work except for Driver's side. I was just going to replace the window switch as a guess, until I found out its $115 for a switch!

Can anyone give me some clues to how to tell if its the motor or the switch? maybe a jump the switch somehow?
 

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We have a sticky switch on the driver's side window too. It's usually fine going down, but when pulling it up you can hear clicking coming from the switch and the window jerks it's way up. My plan was to wait for failure and then fix it. If you replace the switch yourself post the process on here.
 

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avk said:
Use a multimeter and proceed carefully. Attachment: courtesy of bustedfingermotorsports.
I am having the same issue with our 2007 Tribeca B9. I found a switch assembly for $119, but there is a 25% restocking fee if this is not the correct part. I am going to meter my switch tonight, and see if I can narrow the issue.
 

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I did some exploring last night, pulling the switch panel out of the driver's side door. The combinations listed by AVK were very helpful, showing that my switch was operating fine. While pushing my probes in the back of the harness, I noticed the window started operating much better. I separated the master switch assembly to the harness, then took a small tool and narrowed the connection points within the connection block. I am happy to say this appears to have fixed my problem. At least for the short term, I am glad I did not spend the $120 for a new switch.
 

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I thought I would post one more update on this thread. The window switch finally stopped. After breaking down the components, I was able to trace a series of numbers, which led me to a replacement part offered at Autozone. I have installed the new switch, and all windows and door locks are working just fine. The part list of $129, but after a few online coupons I was able to drop this to $103+free shipping to my home. Well worth the cost after everything is said and done. FYI: The web site will say this does not fit the car, but for my 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited, this part fit perfectly.

Duralast/Power Window Switch
Part Number: SW5498

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Power-Window-Switch/_/N-9cilb?filterByKeyWord=SW5498&fromString=search&isSearchByPartNumber=true


Good Luck.
Hans
 

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Yes, it is unfortunate that it is a complete assembly and not individual components held together in a small frame of sorts (hence the $100+ price tag)
I was curious so dove into the assembly and pulled it apart one step further.
My goal was to see if I could install "AUTO" switches for ALL windows, no cigar!
As you can see, inside the assembly everything is soldered to a board, not to mention the auto switch internally is different to the non-auto and the mechanism between both is on opposite sides.
My partners mazda has them for both fronts on the drivers side and the passenger door is auto too...each manufacturer to their own i suppose.
I was also somewhat surprised to see a Nissan logo on the bottom of the piece too......
 

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I have a sticky switch for the driver's side window in my '08. Down and Auto-down are fine, and up goes jittery if I am accelerating at the same time. Thanks to avk for the pinouts. I will multimeter it to see if there's a connection problem.
 

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Passenger side window going down but won't go up

My passenger side window was going down while operated by the passenger but would not go up, I had to lift it from the driver's main.
After reading here, didn't quite find what I was looking for, so here is what I did, I took the switch out and since they are so easy to remove, I took the one from the back door to see if it would work on the front passenger's door and it did, so I knew at that point it was only a defective switch.
Since I can't throw a part away without first looking at how it works, I took it apart, simple procedure except you have to find a clean area to work.
I used my kitchen table and a small plate so pieces wouldn't roll on the floor and get lost.
I wish I would have taken pictures now but it is pretty straight forward, anyone who is not too clumsy would be able to do this repair.
Once it was all apart, I noticed the contacts were dirty, I cleaned them with a Q'tip and some rubbing alcohol and whatever didn't come off with the Q'tip, I gently scrubbed it with the tip of a knife blade just to remove the black spots.
The tricky part is to put it back together, there is 2 very small balls and they have to be in the right place and held steady while putting the switch back together but all I can say is it works like new now and I'm sure it will last a long time too.
For anyone with a sticky switch, you don't have to remove the door panel, there is a rubber liner in the deep door handle, you need to take the liner off, then remove the screw and gently lift the switch trim and locate the tabs holding it in place and push them with a screw driver gently while lifting, once it's out, you will see the switch connector, push the tab of the connector with a screw driver and disconnect the connector.
Then take the trim and switch in the house and dismantle it, clean it up and put it all back together and I bet it will work fine.
It took me about 45 minutes to do all this for the very first time, it would be a half hour job now that I've done one.
The driver main switch is probably the same thing except for the fact there are 4 switches on one board.
 

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I have a sticky switch for the driver's side window in my '08. Down and Auto-down are fine, and up goes jittery if I am accelerating at the same time. Thanks to avk for the pinouts. I will multimeter it to see if there's a connection problem.
How did this turn out for you?

I am having the same problem with ours.
 

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I did some exploring last night, pulling the switch panel out of the driver's side door. The combinations listed by AVK were very helpful, showing that my switch was operating fine. While pushing my probes in the back of the harness, I noticed the window started operating much better. I separated the master switch assembly to the harness, then took a small tool and narrowed the connection points within the connection block. I am happy to say this appears to have fixed my problem. At least for the short term, I am glad I did not spend the $120 for a new switch.
Any idea what the resistance should be for an 08?
 

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There was a pictorial on NASIOC about the cleaning process, but the photos don't show anymore. It basically says to unsnap the bottom cover with the circuit board and then clean the contacts.
 

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It would seem that one of these days auto companies are gonna wise up and put switches in places that water doesn't drop on if you have the window even slightly cracked open LOL.
 

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It would seem that one of these days auto companies are gonna wise up and put switches in places that water doesn't drop on if you have the window even slightly cracked open LOL.
Saab used to have window switches in the center console. People didn't care!
 

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Window switch problems

Just took out the driver's side window switches. Used an old dental tool to scrape the contacts in the plug and try and bend them in a bit. plugged them back in and there is no hesitation of any kind in the driver's Window. Must have just been a little dirt or something.
 

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Window switch

Yes. Altho I do have to pull up and hold for a second for the driver's window. But it does work! I didn't pull the switch apart. Looked like I could really mess something up if I did.
 
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