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I browsed it quickly, but I see nothing in that thread about the noise I was hearing. It was present when it was both engaged and disengaged.
 

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Sorry, maybe I didn't watch your video well. It saw stop and heard the clicking? The thread mentions the clutch not fully engaging due to lower than optimal voltage caused by degrading relay (higher resistance). Seemed to match what you were experience. It's a quick test to swap the AC relay with one of the matching relays for other systems to see if it fixes the behavior.

Tom
 

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I currently have this exact same noise...so swapping out the generator solved your problem? I replace idler pulley and tensioner pulley bearings so I know those are good.
 

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Ah ha! I had a failing AC relay. I had removed the relay while t-shooting and bench tested it. I had some flaky energized results where my continuity meter sometimes would not buzz. I had chalked it up to poor alligator clip connections. Running cold my system operated normally but after the engine came up to temperature and the cabin cooled the AC compressor shut off and never came back on. That's when I search this forum for help on the issue. Viola, found some references to faulty AC relay. I thought to myself that maybe taking another look at the AC relay was in order. Advance Auto to the rescue, had the part in stock. Problem solved, after fully warming up the engine and cooling the cabin the AC compressor now cycles on and off between 175 and 190 psi (High Side). Cabin temp down to a chilly 38 degrees. I'd put the low side pressure in here but there is someing wrong with my low side of my test rig. An easy and cheap fix for under $20. Interestingly, I could find no receiver/dryer in the system. I suspect it may be on the HP line that traverses the engine bay, drivers side to passenger side behind a panel. If anyone knows about this please let me know.

Thanks,
 

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The receiver dryer is mounted to the side of the condenser. It's a tall cylinder. Common design nowadays.
 
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