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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

If anybody can help. My Tribeca is leaking oil on both sides, back of the engine, there are some kind of screws next to the camshaft oil control valves(Oil is leaking from these hexagon screws). Are they just blind plugs(to check pressure etc. ?) and can be opened, cleaned and closed with threads glue? Or are they meant to be some kind of regulating screws? What is my best option to deal with this problem?
2394
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I bet it's actually the solinoid avcs right in front. It's an oring seal and is easy to pull and change. Any issue with the avcs system will cause misfires galore.
It is clearly seen that oil comes from between screws not from solenoids. Might there be an orings on screws as well then?! Sry if i understood wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Long story short. Buy new solenoid housings to be replaced. Although investigating old ones as well later. So it might be possible to repair old ones as well if there is no regulating spring, etc under screw. It might be factory set up and hard to regulate cause of cam positioning. Lets see what pops up from there.
 

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Just pull the bolt out that holds the solenoid in, replace the o-ring around it.
If this vehical is new to you, or not owned for long, you may have a number of issues causing the miss.
What is the mileage, is it lossing coolant, using excessive oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just pull the bolt out that holds the solenoid in, replace the o-ring around it.
If this vehical is new to you, or not owned for long, you may have a number of issues causing the miss.
What is the mileage, is it lossing coolant, using excessive oil?

Bought brand new housings cause solenoids orings not leaking but the screws on top of the housings are. Going to the workshop next week.
 

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Found some oil around the same spot on my 2006, but nothing much for a 15 year-old car. I wiped it off to see how fast it would come back. There were no trouble symptoms. I found oil seeping a little at the valve cover on the right side, and wanted to make sure it wasn't coming from the oil control gizmo. Thought I'd mention it here because this might be common. Someone reported the same thing on the Outback forum. On the left side, the valve cover is very clean. Good thing, because I don't know how to get to the bottom rear bolt on that side (LH cylinder head is set back one-half cylinder spacing relative to the RH).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Now solenoid casings are changed and oil leaks stopped. I do not know yet did it made any difference on idle now.
But now I have another major problem. There is only 5,9 bar on third cylinder. There could be probably couple of reasons for that but it is unlikely that I manage without dismantling the engine. On idle 3rd cylinder is not working but about 2000rpm it starts to play. Does somebody know somebody who have had similar problem and what was the cause and solution????
Thanks!8
 

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You might have a injector acting up. Find a injector sensor or node light as it is called in the states.
It will tell you if you have a bad signal going to the injector, if the signal is good, the injector needs checked. Check the fuel pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Btw I forgot to tell that Engine has also gas injection system(LPG) on it. Weird that the garage didnt mention about injector. All other cylinder pressures are ok so I would leave the fuel pressure aside. But could bad injector cause low pressure on cylinder then?
 

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This is one possiblity. If the injector is not closing off, it could wash the cylinder. ( washing cylinder , flooding with fuel washing lubricating oil off cylinder wall, in combination of a bad spark plug not firing properly). Have the plugs been changed as needed?
A leak down test will tell what is leaking, when properly done. Is this a full LPG system? you said also. Does that mean gasoline plus lpg?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The plug was changed. No effect. Ignition system should be fine. Yes it is lpg+gasoline.
One guy said maybe it can be also stucked cylinder ring or valve too dirty that it does not close properly. Could be washed inside twice with diesel to burn clean.
 

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How do you know the ignition is good on that cylinder?
Did you test the coil? What about a noid test? What good is diesel going to do?
Try some marvel mistry oil in a tank of fuel. A leak down test is going to tell you where the leaking is!
Why the duo fuel sysem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The ignition system is tested. Coils are tested. Diesel should burn off excess particles from inside the engine. There could be stuck cyl ring or dirty valve that leaves the gap in between. This is the cheapest way to start with and hope there is a problem. It is not a new thing to put diesel into the engine and make a couple of times 2 minutes burning procedure. There could be gasket leak but this is the thing to try as well. Lpg is much cheaper than gasoline so thatswhy duo fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hello!

Long time not updated the topic. Now i am that far with the problem i've dismantled the whole engine. Main issue seems to be in valves or its sleeves. Also both headgaskets leaking a bit from behind and crankshaft seal as well as housing above oil pan( seems to
be silicone). Was thinking could it be wise to change timing chains and water pump as well while the engine is already out additionally to all other seals. Maybe take out injectors too cause i have purchased repair kit. Hopefully there is no crack in the block. Fingers crossed.
 
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