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I imagine that those are the oem manufacturers for the subaru hp, it would be silly for them not to be recommended. But that doesn't exclude all other fluids that also meet the specs from working just fine.
Idemistu is indeed the OEM... their US flagship isn't far from Lafayette, incidentally. Castrol simply meets the specs, as verified by SOA.

As far as I'm aware, Royal Purple and Amsoil - though lauded by many - have never been confirmed to meet the OEM specs... actually, I don't know the ATF-HP have even been published.
 

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Idemistu is indeed the OEM... their US flagship isn't far from Lafayette, incidentally. Castrol simply meets the specs, as verified by SOA.

As far as I'm aware, Royal Purple and Amsoil - though lauded by many - have never been confirmed to meet the OEM specs... actually, I don't know the ATF-HP have even been published.

https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3110.pdf

It appears amsoil disagrees with you, I have heard of royal purple causing issues in the 5eat though it allegedly meets the specs.
 

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https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3110.pdf

It appears amsoil disagrees with you, I have heard of royal purple causing issues in the 5eat though it allegedly meets the specs.
I too have heard Royal Purple's claims that it's compatible with the 5EAT, so at least we agree on the effectiveness of that "certification."

Bottom line, is that if the vehicle is under warranty (which probably doesn't apply to any of us), use only OEM or SOA-approved alternatives. If it's not, use whatever you like best.
 

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Transmission or differential? Transmission dipstick is on the left hand side facing forward and the differential is on the right hand side.
Transmission. It's a tint between green and yellow, not red for sure.
The mechanic who fill in the fluid 3 years ago claims to be 100% sure about the specification fitting, and another mechanic (well known in Italy as extremely expert about Subaru), confirmed that he uses a green fluid for the E5AT (no idea abut the brand).
The official Subaru dealer where the issue on rear differential sensor was fixed, three weeks ago, claimed that fluid to be wrong, and strongly suggested to replace it as soon as possible!

I am a bit confused :confused:
 

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We are just as confused, lol! Check out this thread may be of relevance here.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/18688-transmission-fluid.html

When I changed my fluid our tribeca was almost to 100k miles and the fluid was orangish which I took to mean it was wearing down from the bright red most ATF is. And after 2 drain and fills it is still bright red over 50k miles later but with amsoil synthetic not Subaru HP. I would be concerned if the dealer told me it was wrong though.
 

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Pretty sure you have these backwards (reversed).;)
Mechanically, engine direction is always referenced from the perspective of someone standing at the rear of the car facing the front.

In other words:
"Left" is the driver's side in the US/CAN and passenger side in the UK.
"Right" is the driver's side in the UK and passenger side in the US/CAN.

Where this gets confusing is that someone looking under the hood is facing the wrong direction. So the engine's "right" will be on the person's "left."

Ipso facto transmission dipstick is left, differential is right (even though if you're looking under the hood, the transmission dipstick will be on your right).
 

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:lol:
I 100% sure I checked the right dipstick! Thank you all anyway for explanations though.
Yes, driver side is left in Italy, like in the US! Left side driving, as far as I know, is in the UK, Oceania, and Japan.

I'm planning a service for the next month: engine oil & filter, AT fluid and filter, LPG filter, new battery, and maybe coolant drain and fill. My beloved car need some care...

I am not sure yet, whether to going to a dealer or doing it by myself.
(whether to go to a dealer or to do it by myself - which sentence is more correct?)
 

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AT filter is not recommended unless you have a transmission failure/replacement, and it is absurdly difficult to get to. Since you are doing the coolant it would be a good time to do the thermostat and gasket as well. When I had to replace my radiator I replaced all the hoses as well. But I can't say it was necessary I had just happened to have ordered them because of the age of our Tribeca.
 

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Which gasket do you mean? (Sorry I am asking something that could be obvious for you...)
Radiator has been replaced 2 years ago, maybe the thermostat has been replaced too? Where is it located?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
We've had our Tribeca back for about a month, took a couple day trips. In all, we've put about a 1,000 miles on it and everything is running well. So pretty pleased overall, the mechanic has earned my repeat business - since we have a few more things I'd like to have looked at in the near future.

In terms of cost - the OEM valve body runs about $880. I've seen some third party valve bodies for $450. I was charged $150 for the one solenoid - transmission fluid/flush, labor, and taxes brought everything up to $750. So take what you want from this, hopefully someone else finds this real helpful! It can get scary when you start talking transmission work!

Also, someone asked earlier for the name and location of the mechanic we used - it's Gibson Automotive in Dothan, AL. Here is the website: http://www.gibsonautoservice.com/
 

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About to take my 07 Tribeca into a Transmission Shop at the advice of a mechanic, and I wanted to get an idea of what type of job I might be looking at so I have some context when speaking with the new shop.

A week ago, driving our Tribeca, CEL illuminated (along with sport light, traction control etc... - systems which all get shut down when the CEL comes on). Car seemed to be stuck in a higher gear, and acceleration was sluggish.

Anyways, got it to the shop and after a few days they cleared the trouble codes, charged the battery (which they said was low, and a possible culprit). They said to drive it for a few days and bring it back in a week and let them hook the computer back up to see if anything comes back.

Here are the codes that they cleared: P0700 (TCM), P0741 (Torque Converter Clutch), and P0768 (Shift solenoid D).

Over the weekend - three days to be exact - the car had no issues. Shifted fine, accelerated fine. Got in to run an errand, and the CEL came back on. I took it back to the shop, and it's the same codes coming back with the suggestion to take it to a Transmission specialist.

Anyone have any insight into what I'm about to walk into? On the surface, since the car ran fine for several days - I don't think there is any major mechanical issues present. Could replacing the Shift Solenoid and TCC be actual issues? If so, from a parts perspective I would think that the price for the job would be much more reasonable compared to full-on transmission rebuild. Anyone have any idea on what typical pricing might be?

Thanks in advance! All comments welcome!
check the transmission speed sensor , this causes all the abs, traction control ,check engine ,etc to light up and cause the vehicle to be sluggish
 
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