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Had noises from the front end.. Took in 2007 tribeca..It was the sway bar bushings....now the control arm bushing are bad...what next..:mad: has anybody replace the control arm bushing? if so tell me how..hate to take to the dealer

Paul
 

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I had both of these replaced at about 18,000 miles. I had the knocking noise up front on both sides. They were replaced under warranty. Only problem was the parts were not in stock and they had to come from Japan - which took 3 weeks...
 

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Stopped by Subaru the other day, they had the latest generation of sway bar bushings in stock. Picked up the pair for $14. Replaced them Friday night in about 15 mins and my noise in the front end is gone! The only reason I didn't have them replace them under warranty is because I'm about to hit 60k on the car. Very easy repair for those of you out of warranty.
 

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clunking from my front end too but was not the swaybar bushing but the hanger bolts for the swaybar bushing was missing
 

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have to replace myself

Hey everyone, I purchased an 06 B9 and I love the vehicle, but I have the infamous clunking in the front end. I took it to the dealer and he said that is was the control arm bushing but I was 2 months over warrenty and only 35K miles. Anyway I did not want to pay over $400 for them to replace them. I want aftermarket (better quality) bushings and I have searched everywhere. Can someone help me? Thank
 

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squeaking

Hey everyone! Well recently I have been hearing a squeak coming from the front end while driving over bumpy roads and such. I was just wondering if anyone experienced this sort of issue when they refer to "clunking sound" or is this completely different. I propose that this is a bushing issue.

Please let me know, thanks in advance.
 

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yess dont worry..it should be the front bushings or front struts..either or...but mine was weird...i had the bushings replaced and it still had the sound but i found out it was the struts not the bushing that make this sound but it went away..and the car rides fine so yeah..
 

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We had the same problems with our '07 Tribeca and the dealer ended up replacing our lower control arm units (the entire thing, not just the bushings) and our sway bar bushings. The car is back to normal now. We have the Subaru gold plan extended warranty with no deductible, so it didn't cost us anything. Otherwise, it would have been pretty expensive. I still not 100% sure the lower control arm units really needed to be replaced, but they were free so I wasn't about to argue. I think the first thing to try is the sway bar bushings as they are not that expensive and, from what I have been told, not that difficult to replace. If that doesn't fix the problem, then you may have to move on to replacing the lower control arm bushings and maybe the entire lower control arm units.
 

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the dealer just found I had a cracked control arm, was getting a rattle/clunk. they thought it was a rusty caliper not releasing properly and getting torqued and hitting something but when they were doing the brakes they found this crack. I've got a gold sas too so saving me some $$$!
 

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fernando said:
Some body knows how can change the lower control arms bushings.Please helpme!!!Subaru tribeca B9 2006.:confused:
Old thread but if you read this, did you figure out how to do this?
I need mine done too and only have 10 days to do it.
 

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fernando said:
Some body knows how can change the lower control arms bushings.Please helpme!!!Subaru tribeca B9 2006.:confused:
For the front suspension lower control arm rear bushing, I did 2 days of surfing and found a lot of info on the VW TDI web site that has an almost identical style of control arm we have on the Tribeca and those who tried a poly bushing on the rear of the control arm hated it and they failed sooner than the OEM rubber ones, where they gained was using the Audi TT bushing because it is a solid piece of rubber not with holes in the rubber like our Tribeca and Jetta design. (but the Audi TT bushing is not the same size as our application, IT WILL NOT FIT ON OUR TRIBECA)
There are no options for Tribeca it is a Subaru dealer only item in Canada and retail for $25 to $29 depending on dealers, in the US you can find them as low as $10.80 plus shipping etc.
The location of that bushing and the way it works would make a poly bushing feel all the roads cracks and bumps in the steering wheel.
As much as I love Poly bushings this is the only place I would not use them even if they were available.
I will try my best to take pictures and make a write up on how to replace them.
Most shop will charge 2 hours labour per side to replace them but with most shop rates, it is cheaper to buy a new complete control arm from the dealer. For $210 average per side, it comes with both front, rear bushings and a new ball joint and is a lot easier to replace.
If you have lots of mile I would recommend a new complete control arm.
Control arm complete include new front and rear busings and a new ball joint comes installed, all you need is to unbolt the arm and install the new one, very easy.
If you want to save money or have only 50k miles or less, you can replace the rear bushings only and replace the control arm complete assembly the next time around.
The rear control arm bushings have to be pressed out and new one pressed in and might scare some people away, it can be cut out for those without a press but you still need to press the new one in place with a press or a vise, not difficult for most but can be a challenge for those who have never done something like this.
If I don't have the time to make a write up, go to the TDI web site and you'll see how it is done, it is the same on the Tribeca, the size is different of course but it is the exact same idea and he did a very good do-it-yourself write up without a shop press.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=154137

Hope this can help.
Al
 

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Thanks, Al.
I'm about to replace the bushing described.

The pinch bolt to remove the ball joint from the upright, is that a difficult procedure? My mechanic friend says to remove the nut from the ball joint stud an knock it out. I'd rather do the pinch bolt and remove the lower assembly as a unit so the ball joint can be inspected.

Note that the orientation of the new bushing must be the same as the one removed and there is a top and bottom side to it!
"install the rear bushing with its longer inner cylinder facing downward and the shorter facing upward"​
 

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milo066 said:
Thanks, Al.
I'm about to replace the bushing described.

The pinch bolt to remove the ball joint from the upright, is that a difficult procedure? My mechanic friend says to remove the nut from the ball joint stud an knock it out. I'd rather do the pinch bolt and remove the lower assembly as a unit so the ball joint can be inspected.

Note that the orientation of the new bushing must be the same as the one removed and there is a top and bottom side to it!
"install the rear bushing with its longer inner cylinder facing downward and the shorter facing upward"​
The pinch bolt is a piece of cake to remove and the ball joint slides right out, I tried the nut as you friend recommend and wasted half an hour and was about to damage the thread, the other way is too easy, don't waste your time with the ball joint nut.
The OEM bushing have colored dots on them, the shorter side has 2 pink dots and goes on top, the longer side has one blue dot and goes towards the ground, you also need to mark the way the old one was, if you look at the bushing you will see 4 holes in the rubber and on one piece inside you will see a gap and that piece has like 3 small ribs going through the bushing, I used those ribs as my guide and put a mark on the control arm lining up with the middle rib, that way I knew exactly the position the factory bushing came out and I turned the new one to the exact same spot, I am sure there's got to be a reason why they installed them that way, so I made sure it was back the same way as it came out.
The rest if you follow the TDi link, you won't have any problem, don't waste your time trying to push it out, the control arm is too thin and makes it too hard to try to push it out.
Pushing the new one in is pretty easy if you have a couple of small barbell plates and a vise, clamp or press, all you do is press the bushing in till it's flush on both side of the control arm.
 

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Just had my '08 Tribeca out at Becker Subaru with 50K. I have extended warranty as well w/$100 deductible. They replaced bushings and oil for less than my deductible so I paid cash. Front end is quiet and smooth again.
 
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