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The two steel elbows that come from the lower crankcase on my 2006 Tribeca are about to fall off due to severe rust and the only fix seems to be a major engine repair since they are only sold including the crankcase/oilpan. Has anyone tried to replace the two elbows only or can I just weld them shut?

I have been told by Subaru that they were a heavy duty special option not standard equipment. So, I will loose the oil and transmission cooling function but since I am not towing anything anyways I am only concerned with upsetting the cooling flow in the engine. Has anyone tried to plug the lines and if so did it work out?

Thanks guys for any information on the topic since I didn't find anything in the search of this site.
 

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Well, the oil-to-coolant heat exchanger is standard for this engine. Doesn't mean you absolutely cannot do without it. Whatever you do, make sure the upper oil pan is not fubarred. Otherwise the engine will have to come out and cylinder heads removed before you can get to that part.
 

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Can you show via a photo or parts diagram what part you are talking about? A photo with a smart phone would be ideal.

There are no subaru 'heavy duty special options' related to the crankcase that I know of.

There is an aftermarket transmission cooler, which you don't need, but you do need the 'standard' transmission cooler, which is part of the radiator.

I am nearly 100% sure you can't just close off the inlet and outlet for the oil cooler, the engine needs these.
 

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Oh, I didn't know it is standard. Has anyone tried to block these lines and will the engine overheat or the thermostat not open correctly if blocked?
 

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I have a great picture, but I don't know how to upload it since it asks me for a url of the image. Is there another way to show it?
 

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At most, use a small wire brush to clean up any loose corrosion and spray it with high-temp paint/primer if it makes you feel better. The walls on these pipes are deceivingly thick... even in the saltiest of environments, it would take decades to corrode through.
 

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Hi there Folks .i am wondering if Anyone knows the torque specs for the oil cooler on the 3.0 .i am trying to get the gasket replacement done tomorrow .any advice is appreciated...Thanks
 

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To connect the the oil cooler to the block: 40 ft-lbs.
 

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Thanks Psygnal .i was almost certain that you were going to shine in .i really appreciated .i just torqued the hollow screw /pipe to 40 lbs/ft .no more dripping 25 min Job.i am ready for a :beer:....Thanks
 

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It's ridiculous how easy that job is. Did you disconnect the coolant lines or leave those on when you changed the gasket?
 

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I just removed the 2 screws that hold the crossing pipe that comes from the thermostat housing to the cooler .by doing this it allowed more slack to separate the cooler from the block. It was a little difficult to clean the surfaces with the coolant hoses attached .but i did not wanted to loose the coolant since i just change it .i will be a good idea to do this when changing the coolant /thermostat...Gerry
 

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I was due for a coolant change, so I removed the lines when I did mine, but I figured it was unnecessary after the job. Glad to have confirmation on this.
 
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