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Discussion Starter #41
just got the Beca to the alignment shop. they put it on the ramp ,measured the angles and handed the keys back to me ,no adjustments needed /no charge .i paddled myself on the back and went home with my money on my pockets :D
 

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good on them and for you, places like that tend to do better work, I know a few places that would charge you just for putting it on the lift and then most likely appear to do an alignment just for the sake of charging you.
 

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I used the Harbor Freight spring compressors for the fronts and rear and it worked perfectly. I just bought the spring compressors so maybe they've changed them.

All 4 struts replaced this weekend. Broke the rear right end link (well, stripped it) so I need to replace it. Going with Moog. Will drive for a week without it.

Tom
 

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I'm halfway done replacing the rear struts at 75k mi. One was leaking fluid. Subaru dealership was going to replace the bad one but at their price I could do both struts plus end links and sway bushings myself.


Using KYB struts and Moog end links and bushings.


Here's a tip: Use an M10 x 1.25 thread restorer (or a die) on the end link threads all the way up to the nuts before trying to take them off. And use plenty of your favorite brand of rust penetrating fluid. The end links are the worst part of the job when they are rusted. I used an allen socket inside the bolts and a ratcheting wrench on the nuts. It may be tempting to turn the allen and hold the nut, but I think there's much greater risk of stripping the allen. So I held the allen and turned the nut (back-and-forth as necessary).


Also, keep track of how the old strut came apart so that when you re-install the spring the top and bottom mounts stay aligned with the mounting holes in the chassis and lower arm.
 

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I had to get a new endlink on the rear when I did this.

No big deal to try, and if it breaks, just drive for a few days with the endlink disconnected while you wait for the part.

Use a jack under the strut to line it up with the mounting hole.

Tom
 

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I wouldn't recommend Moog endlinks. I've gone through quite a few on my Subarus, it doesn't seem like they have the quality they used to and a lot of people have experienced the ball joints on their endlinks giving out after running them less than a year. Just an FYI.
 

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Hi everyone. I just bought a 2010 Tribeca in January 2020 with only 56,000 miles. That’s only 5,600 miles per year. But I think age had an effect on the struts. Drives like a boat which was expected to a degree but I’d like to firm it up.
so is everyone just using the KYB struts that are made for this model year? Any tips and tricks such as it’s considered an upgrade for 2005-2009 Outbacks to use 2001-2004 rear struts because they’re firmer. Baja springs are an upgrade to 2001-2004 Outbacks...etc.
Anything better than stock that doesn’t cost a lot would be appreciated.
 

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I haven't seen anyone suggest alternate struts for the tribeca like what you see on the outback. I swapped for new KYB, and was happy with the improvement with our 2008 tribeca that had about 150k.
 

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The nuts on My front endlinks were so rusted when I changed them on the weekend, I didn't even try to undo them, just loosened them enough that I could use my side grinder and cut them right off. I'm sure it saved me a lot of time and frustration. Did the front sway bar bushings at the same time, snapped a bolt on each of them. Should I expect anything more difficult on the back endlinks and sway bar bushings? While I was under there I noticed that the Y where the single exhaust pipe splits into 2 to go to each muffler is rusted out and most of my exhaust is coming out underneath my car, so this will need to be fixed, but I don't think its anything I can do...
 

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Back is very similar to the fronts. If you already dealt with the rusted endlinks and have a plan, you will be fine. I wouldn't bother with the rear sway bar bushings, as it seems only the fronts have problems with the 'clunk' at low speed over bumps, but it's also not hard to do.

You can either buy the OEM exhaust parts and replace them yourself, or bring it to a shop and they can either replace or weld in as they see fit. I would probably buy the parts and replace as it will be the less expensive option, but exhaust work isn't the most fun. You could just replace everything from the cat back.
 

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Thread restoring die, mentioned in this thread, is a very good idea. I bought some based on this recommendation. Tried out M12x1.25 on the front link I had to cut on one end. It worked pretty well. Will be using it for the work planned this season.
 
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