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Discussion Starter #21
I am going to give it a try with the $49 impact gun from Harbor Freight and go from there ,penetrating oil overnight and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
just got the struts and let me tell you they look very well built "USA Made" got the Harbor Freight impact gun .and yes it is bulky .got the impact sockets and a big breaker bar to loose the wheels nuts .all for under $70 ,i only hope the impact gun can handle the job:eek:,however i wont be able do it now. since the struts mounts and miscellaneous hardware are not in yet:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Update!!!!!

Just received the new struts for the front they are KYB made in Japan and i think identical to the Originals " but the rears are also KYB made in USA .can't see no difference " got all the OEM strut mounts and rubber cushions,bolts etc , bougth the spring compressor from Harbor freight for $ 14.99 ..thinking on doing the Job next weekend:tup:..Gerry
 

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Nice, for $15, it's worth owning them and not having to deal with picking them up.

Good luck! Did you get the pass through socket, or are you just going to use the socket + vice grips? Remember to loosen that center bolt on the ground, it can be a bear once it's out. Just enough to break the torque.

I invested in this set: http://www.harborfreight.com/combo-go-thru-socket-set-sae-metric-21-pc-67974.html but it didn't come in time and I just used the socket + vice to loosen the nut while I held the allen key.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
man that is a good tip ..Thanks ..just wondering why you have to order the kit..Harbor F did not have them in stock ?.let me know so i can be ahead of the curve ...Thanks again Td:tup:
 

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With a very busy work schedule and young kids, I can either troll the HF store OR work on the car, not both. Easy to get it shipped to the door :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok understood ,so they may have the kit in stock ,the HF store happens to be on my path to work so i will pick it up ASAP :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ok i just replaced the 2 rear struts. OH Boy!!!:eek: I ended up torching the 4 big nuts that holds the struts and the lower arm to the hub,they did not looked rusted in any way but they wont break loose ,used crawl bar nothing ,so i torch them carefully using a damp rag to cool down the surrounding and used the impact wrench and finally they gave up. that was the most difficult part ,the rest was easy you need a jack to raise the lower arm once the strut is installed since the strut will be pushing down "kind of tricky" so i have to use some tricks my Dad showed Me back then when i use to help him. i also use the jack to rise the lower arm and remove the hub bolt initially ,...those 4 bolts are torqued to 120 p/ ft :eek::eek::eek: ,now the good.. the car is riding much better ,next weekend will be doing the front ,helpfully they will be easier :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #29
note ..The H Freight impact wrench and spring compressor worked flawlessly
 

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Nice job!

I used a jack on the end of a long cheater bar (4') to break those loose. They are tough.

Fronts are generally more work, but usually because people do them first :) Now that you have done the rears, you know what you're doing. The fronts probably will go smoother. Make sure to mark the camber bolt.

Then let it settle for for a week or 2 and get it aligned.

Tom
 

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i noticed that on most subaru's rear shock bolts are harder to remove for some reason. the front ones should be easier than the back, just make sure to undo brake and ABS sensor prior to taking the strut off. I generally use anti-seize on every suspension bolt i remove/reinstall this way in two year it will spin and not break on me.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
i saw no adjustment bolts among the ones i removed .so i am assuming no alignment parameter has change on the rear suspension ?:confused: ,the front was aligned not so long ago. thus i am expecting the big bolts to come out easier .since i know those have to be loosen to perform the alignment ,according tho the SM the fronts are less involved that the rears ,but the alignment seems necessary to me with the fronts "will wait a week or two as TD suggested" ,i known i will be dealing with a much more powerful spring but that does not worry me ,i found that to be the easiest part :cool:
 

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What the breakaway torque the HF impact is supposed to handle? A little odd it didn't work on those fasteners. The specification is 89 lb-ft (or 120 N-m), almost the same as lug nuts, although the suspension nuts are self-locking.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
i cannot find the specs. but i can tell you that the lug nuts came out with this wrench without braking a sweat. and i had them torqued at 95 foot lbs. those bolts were frozen. i have a huge crow bar that i use for this kind off stuff. and did not worked either .even with penetrating oil and some hammering around to help it loose did not break loose. i was afraid of the car getting off the jack stands ,so i had to use the ultimate weapon "the torch":naughty:
 

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i saw no adjustment bolts among the ones i removed .so i am assuming no alignment parameter has change on the rear suspension ?:confused: ,the front was aligned not so long ago. thus i am expecting the big bolts to come out easier .since i know those have to be loosen to perform the alignment ,according tho the SM the fronts are less involved that the rears ,but the alignment seems necessary to me with the fronts "will wait a week or two as TD suggested" ,i known i will be dealing with a much more powerful spring but that does not worry me ,i found that to be the easiest part :cool:
Sorry to confuse you. There was no alignment you messed with in the rear, only one bolt (the top one if I remember right) in front on each side.

Yes, front bolt torque is MUCH easier, the springs were more difficult on the front on the outback, hopefully there are more coils on the tribeca, which will make that easier. Obviously I haven't done it on my tribeca yet :)

You actually want to get the alignment because just moving the springs around and the new struts could shift it by a small amount. You want it to settle down, then get it redone. Especially important with new springs, but generally true for all suspension work.

If I recall correctly, the rear bolts were in the 90 ft lb range? Maybe I have that wrong. But after sitting, they are much higher than that to break loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Yes it is 89 foot pound or 120 nm. i set them to aprox 92 ft /pound. man you dont realize what are you missing until you get those struts replaced i took it for an spin around town and it feels rolling like a rubber ball no noise just tigh and controlled . you can really tell that the Front. Is more loose..can't wait to replace those as well..Gerry:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Just did the fronts .the Harbor Freight Spring compressor did not worked on the front had to rent one from Advance A/P. the springs were tougher for sure .replaced front mounts and rubber seats .all OEM .so far riding like new
 

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Nice job! Too bad the HF spring compressors didn't work out. I was going to get a set. Suppose I'll just keep borrow from Advance...
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Update

The Beca is is riding like or better than new .no clunks just solid/ silent over the bumps ,very controlled ride ,i am going to replace the front sway bar bushings which are almost 2 years old ,and that should be the icing on the cake ,sure i had expended some money on OEM rubber seats and strut mounts etc but i think i was worth every penny :D:D:D:D:D:D getting my alignment done on Monday ,i am undecided between doing the alignment at the stealership or in a super reputable alignment place. price will be about 20 bucks more at the alignment shop vs dealership :confused:
 

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I would go to an alignment shop if I trusted them. Dealer's aren't know for their alignments. Sometimes they even sub it out to another shop.
 
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