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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
3 out 4 of my power locks no longer work either inside the vehicle or from the remote. I have an 06.

Has anyone else had to replace/fix theirs yet? Wondering how hard it is and any gouge on where to go to figure out how to do it would be greatly appreciated.
 

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hey am having the same issue same year too only my right rear work with the switch or the remote, there have to be some quick fix out there or someone who know how to fix this issue????
 

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Similar problem here. 06 Tribeca, 110k miles. All of a sudden the drivers door lock won't respond to lock/unlock button or remote. No clicking or any other noise. All other doors work fine. Any ideas? Anyone seen instructions for removing the door panel to take a look?
 

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Door Lock

I just purchased my '06 Tribeca last weekend and during the test drive I noticed the front passenger door didn't respond to the electric lock commands. It worked just fine manually but the remote had no effect on it. The dealer agreed to repair it as part of the deal.

I don't have instructions on how to do the repair, but I can relay what is on the repair paperwork if you want part numbers.

A) Customer states front pass pwr door lock is inoperative
-Misc installed new lock door assy
14914 CPS $90
1 t1031XA00A LATCH ASSY DR F RH $42.82
1 909130096 CLIP PIN $ 1.14
 

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Started into replacing power lock actuator

So, I tore into the drivers door. Theres more to it than I thought.

Sure enough, its the actuator. $80 at the dealer for the part. I haven't found a better deal online. I'll order the part and hopefully install it next week. My pics are terrible, only notes to myself to remember screws/bolts/holes. The trickiest part was getting the door panel off. From there, it's just a lot of small dissembling. I'll be driving around the next few days without a door panel, and no power windows. Otherwise its fine.

I'll repost when I finish up.
 

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Done

So I buttoned it all back up. A trim removal kit from Harbor Freight was invaluable and less than ten bucks. Dealer parts guy said it was either the actuator or one of the plastic clips connecting the rods to the lock mechanism. Plastic parts on my car were fine (too bad; they're about $2 instead of $80.)

I'm a change-my-own-oil guy, but not a rebuild-my-transmission guy, and I could handle this job. I"m guessing a shop would charge $250-300.
 

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Dgteaser,
So, you actually had to basically disassemble the whole interior trim of the door incl. remove the window, correct? (I'm looking into the Repair manual i.e., to be able to replace the lock actuator.)

How much time did it take for you? I believe my front driver's door lock actuator has gone bad... (central locking does not work)

Any particular things to keep track of/good advice? (besides taking some photos of course to help memory putting things back in place)
Cheers
 

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I did not remove any glass, just the door panel. I bought the trim removal tools from Harbor freight for $10 and it was a good investment. Several screws and wiring clips later it all came apart. Probably took and hour and a half to take apart and an hour to reassemble. Its been a while do maybe longer. Good luck!
 

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(I'm looking for a rattle behind the driver door panel. Sounds like a loose wire that flops with speed and vibration. ) Got off the two philips screws, popped off the gusset cover... but the door trim seems glued. Tried prying the trim off with a 1 inch paint scraper but the panels won't give...

Any tips to remove the panels???

Will a paint scraper do the trick or is the trim remover worlds better?

I see Harbor Freight sells different kits, which one would be best?
 

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@Blindspot
Haven't tried myself yet but I got similar sound on the passenger side. Will try to get into the door as soon as I get some free time (+ also do the actuator change on driver's side). Feel free to give feed back what you find rattling
(I think mine more sounds like a broken clip or so (only at higherspeeds)..i.e. holding the outer panel, makes it vibrate, but not sure, annoying as hell...

I would go for more proper trim removal tools like Dgteaser suggests
 

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Getting a plastic/composite set of trim removers... tomorrow am... so hopefully will git'er'done by lunch. and will post the findings. (hope there's no adhesive on the panels deal with)
 

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Great advice and pics. :) Thanks. Will post my findings when I get some time to work on the car (maybe next week) Cheers

Ps I am a little concerned of the use of break cleaners on rubber/plastic?? Sounds like more a lubricant is needed?
 

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Peace said:
Great advice and pics. :) Thanks. Will post my findings when I get some time to work on the car (maybe next week) Cheers

Ps I am a little concerned of the use of break cleaners on rubber/plastic?? Sounds like more a lubricant is needed?
The tar-ry stuff is very goopy and brake cleaner was handy, alcohol ought to work too.... the goop does wash off with soap and patience...

Assembly goes: InsideTrim...fastener....PlasticSheet...tarAdhesive...doorFrame

There is less mess if you can insert the pry-tool between the trim and plastic, ie on top of the plastic on the other side of the tar. Once it touches tar, a cleanup is necessary... Good Luck... It's easy once you've done it. Auto part Tire Automotive wheel system Automotive tire Automotive exterior Auto part Tire Rim Automotive exterior Shoe
 

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Have purchased trim removal tools too, as soon as I get the chance I'll go for both doors (actuator and noise respectively). Will update abd take some photos too. Very helpful thx Blindspot :)
 

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Good luck Peace.

The only trouble I had was disconnecting the connector from the cable bundle to the window/lock module. Couldn't figure out how to disconnect it, so couldn't remove the trim...had to hang the trim from the door with bungies while working inside the door (so it wasn't suspended by the cable bundle).

Would have been nice to have the trim off and out of the way, but the connector is tricky unless you know the trick. It had about 2x10 = 20 pins, and a latch on each short side, but it wouldn't budge for me.
 

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resurrecting this because my driver's door actuator is not working and I can't get it out of the door. I had no problem removing the interior of the door and I removed the 10 mm bolt holding the actuator and the bolt holding the window guide. I also removed the three screws holding the latch but I can't get the actuator out. I know that the hooked wire attached to the lock needs to be released but I don't know how to do that. It seems that there's a white plastic cover over it. Do I need to remove the outside door handle? Please help. Thanks.
 
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