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Discussion Starter #1
My AllData service says I need to pull the engine to replace the oil pan gasket. Is that for sure? Anyone with experience in doing the job?

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The actual oil pan (stamped steel) is straightforward to remove. It does not even overhang the crossmember unlike 4-cyl. models (with EJ engines anyway). There's also a piece called "upper oil pan" which is really an extension of the engine block, but it is sealed with O-rings and silicone.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks avk. I was under the vehicle a couple days before my post and hadn't noticed any obstructions from doing the work. I also noticed seepage from the valve cover gaskets so I plan to tackle that job as well. I have already replaced the oil cooler seal. I just hate to see so much oil dripping off an engine. Honesty, the valve cover gaskets seem like they will be move of a chore due to accessibility.
 

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My AllData service says I need to pull the engine to replace the oil pan gasket. Is that for sure? Anyone with experience in doing the job?

馃殫
Thanks
Was that upper or lower pan or did it just lump them all together?

I haven't done a tribeca in the vehicle, but all Subaru's for the past 4 decades are the same and there's a reasonable chance the tribeca is the same. The issue isn't the pan clearance itself. The issue is the pan needs shifted backward for the sump to pull through the internal oil pan baffle plates. The pan isn't just an empty bucket - it has baffle plates across multiple levels and the sump threads down through them, so the pan needs shifted around some to pull through.

If it's like other subaru's over the past 4 decades, it can be done without pulling the engine by lifting the engine a couple of inches - remove the two lower 14mm engine mount nuts, front mount if the vehicle has it (i think tribeca does), jack the engine up a couple of inches and this will give you clearance to pull the pan. No need to pull anything else usually.

I've done so many Subaru engines since 1980 until now that I would just assume this to be true of the Tribeca and proceed as usual. Worse case scenario you drop the exhaust from the engine (6 14mm nuts) or remove exhaust hangers, and make sure the radiator hoses dont' stretch too much as you lift it another inch or so.

The last one I did (again, non tribeca) didn't take long at all. The engine mount nuts usually have oil and are tehrefore "rust proof", and always come out easy (tight maybe, but easy). jack it up and drop the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I went back to the AllData site and now upderstand what you mean by upper and lower oil pan. So the oil pan I was referring to was in fact the lower oil pan. I'm reminded again to read the full answer to the question at hand.

:sneaky:
 

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Most likely it is the valve gaskets and not the oil pan. I would tackle just the valve gaskets and see if that solves the problem before doing the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well crap.

My duaghter took it to the beach for a couple of days and on the way home it engine died. Had a dealer check it out today and they say it won't start, my daughter and the tow truck driver seemed to be able to, and at least one piston has low compression <45psi. dealers remedy is replace the engine. They found a nioce used one with only 120K miles, more than my current engine, and they will warrant for 6 mo. for only 4600 dollars. I have an 06 LTd. Is that the EZ30 engine?

Thanks gang.
 

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Yes EZ30. But has to be from a tribeca, not a different subaru, unless you swap over more parts.

I would ask for a lower mileage engine. I would think they are out there.JDM engines are usually what people go with.
 
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