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P0328 - Knock Sensor

16K views 29 replies 11 participants last post by  taller238 
#1 · (Edited)
I bought a 2009 Subaru Tribeca Limited a month ago and it has 166k miles on her. Since I have gotten the vehicle about every 2-300 miles this check engine light comes on for the knock sensor. I can clear it with the code reader and it usually goes away for the next few hundred miles and comes back again.

The car runs great.. especially since I just cleaned the throttle body and replaced spark plugs.

When this code comes on it puts the car into some kind of limp mode.. disabling cruise control and traction control. Its very annoying. I see in the records that the previous owner took it in to Subaru to have the sensors looked at and they said sensor was fine and sent it back out. Clearly something is wrong.

Tonight I look at the sensors.. there are 2 on the 3.6L on top of the engine under the throttle body. The one on the passenger side isn't that bad to get to but the other one looks nearly impossible.

I got an $8 sensor off of amazon and replaced the passenger one.. will let you know if it changes anything. Also the code always shows up twice in my scanner... does that mean its both sensors?? Or something else?

Oh and when I clear the code next time I go to start the car it doesn't want to start on the first or second try.. every time.. so weird. Makes my car sound like ****!

BTW this car is sweeeeet.. other than this code.. shes a beast :D

UPDATE ON POST #11
 
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#2 ·
When you clear the code you are actually erasing the learned parameters in the ecm, next time turn the key on let it sit for a minute or two then crank it up. If necessary you can remove the intake to get to the other sensor, that shouldn't be that big of a deal even though it sounds like it.
 
#3 ·
0328 is bank 1, which is the RH bank on the engine (passenger side in US), so you replaced the correct sensor. If there was a problem on the other bank, you'd be getting a 0332 or 0333 code.

If 0328 comes back after replacing the sensor, you've likely got a wiring or ECM issue. Or you replaced one bad sensor with another bad sensor (was the eBay sensor OEM or aftermarket, new/used?).
 
#5 ·
That is the best news I heard all day that Bank 1 is the one I changed out. I haven't put enough miles on it yet but it seemed to run fine today. I didn't torque it down to spec so hopefully I didn't over torque it too much. It was $8 on Amazon and has no branding on it at all.

I didn't know deleting a code was erasing the ecu parameters! I thought it just deleted the code.. interesting.

I do have a new sound in the front.. when I start driving I hear it from about 0-10 mph..almost like a popping metallic sound? also have an exhaust rattle I think i've tracked down.. its the 3rd cat/resonator in the middle of the car and another sound when I go over bumps in the front.

I thought I fixed the 1 sound by changing the front sway bar bushings with aftermarket but apparently not. Im pretty sure the LCA bushings are shot so could be one of the noises.
 
#10 ·
So far so good with the knock sensor. The code hasn't come back and its been 600+ miles. So hopefully it wont come back.

The suspension noises are driving me nuts still. I just ordered the proforged sway bar endlinks from Amazon. Will see if that helps.
 
#11 ·
Going to resurrect this thread as I have got another Knock Sensor code again :(

And its the dreaded P0333 meaning its the driver side sensor this time.

Looks impossible to get to unless I remove the entire intake manifold??

Anyone ever change this one?
 
#13 ·
Drivers side knock sensor replacement

I recently replaced the drivers side knock sensor on my 09 Tribeca with 200K plus miles on it. The dealer wanted $130 for the part and $488 labor. I got the part at O'reilly for $80 and spent maybe an hour figuring out how to replace it. I am assuming at $488 the dealer was charging to remove the intake. I removed the air box behind the throttle body and was able to reach under the intake manifold and unhook the electrical connector which was a promising sign, then I tried a stubby box end wrench and could not get a good enough grip or or ability to turn the bolt.
I them was able to get a socket extension past the alternator? bracket and then connect a 10 or12 mm socket extension with a universal joint attached, it was tight, but once loosened I went back under and removed by hand, and then hand tightened the new one down in the same position so when I went to tighten back down it wouldn't move. Tightened it up and have not had an issue with the lights or code since. Hope this helps anyone that has to replace one of these. I am no expert but will try a lot of repairs before I hire it out.
















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#14 ·
I recently replaced the drivers side knock sensor on my 09 Tribeca with 200K plus miles on it. The dealer wanted $130 for the part and $488 labor. I got the part at O'reilly for $80 and spent maybe an hour figuring out how to replace it. I am assuming at $488 the dealer was charging to remove the intake. I removed the air box behind the throttle body and was able to reach under the intake manifold and unhook the electrical connector which was a promising sign, then I tried a stubby box end wrench and could not get a good enough grip or or ability to turn the bolt.
I them was able to get a socket extension past the alternator? bracket and then connect a 10 or12 mm socket extension with a universal joint attached, it was tight, but once loosened I went back under and removed by hand, and then hand tightened the new one down in the same position so when I went to tighten back down it wouldn't move. Tightened it up and have not had an issue with the lights or code since. Hope this helps anyone that has to replace one of these. I am no expert but will try a lot of repairs before I hire it out.

Good to hear you were able to replace it. I have replaced both sensors now and that driver side one is an absolute ***** to get to but it can be done and without removing all the crap the manual says.

BTW the $8 chinese sensors out there do work.. at least the ones I bought did. Just look at it closely with the old one you took out as my new sensor had a slightly misplaced plastic on the side of it where the harness connector slides over it.. I was jamming the connector in wonder why it wouldn't fit and it didn't match... I ripped apart the harness connector in the process. Still was able to slide it on though.. its just not as tight as I would want it.
 
#15 ·
Guess I'm not the only one

Fellas, My 06 Tribeca now has 201,000 miles and looks as good as the day I drove it off the lot with 27 miles on it. I've been fightin the issue of replacing the knock sensor on the drivers side for about six months, because I don't want to pay out the whazoo for a part and four times that amount for someone else to do it.
I have the parts on hand... and am hoping I do not need the new intake manifold gaskets I bought. i'm gunna dive under the hood tonight and with a little luck and a couple of blessing, my thirteen and a half year old Subi will be runnin like a champ once again.
This thread of yours has only reinforced my thoughts of doin it myself and saving the money for important things... like good wine for momma, n some cold beer for me :)
 
#17 ·
Done.... kinda

OK, Knock sensor installed and it took me about an hour without pulling the intake manifold. Biggest issue was trying to line up the new sensor and get the bolt started, with no room to get your fingers on it. I fabricated a couple of new tools that would work like a couple of chopsticks with hooks on the ends, out of an old metal clothes hanger.
I did NOT buy an eight-dollar sensor; instead, I opted for a Duralast Knock Sensor that I ordered online from Auto Zone. Their part number is SU6846 for $47.99 and it was an exact match and clicked right into place, but… I don’t think my problem is over.
The check engine lights are still on, even after sitting all night not connected to the battery. I will swing by Auto Zone at lunchtime and have them check out the codes, delete them and cross my fingers. I did NOT like the looks of the wiring harness just 1-3 inches from my new sensor.
If I get the same codes coming back, I’m pretty sure it will be a wiring issue.
 
#18 ·
Well crap! same code, dummy lights are staying illuminated and even though the ol girl is running great, I can't use my cruse control... Now I need to plan out a Saturday or Sunday when I can pull off the whole frickin manifold, so I can try and surgically repair that small portion of wiring harness.
I couldn't help but notice that newer vehicles across the board have gone to a knock sensor with a clip on pigtail... It woulda been nice.
 
#21 ·
Looks like you changed the knock sensor on the wrong side. You should have changed Bank 1, or the passenger's side...

"On Subarus in the USA, Bank 2 is the driver's side (left side as you sit in the car). This appears to be the reverse of most other cars, where Bank 1 is on the left.

The link below provides a service manual download with a lot of useful troublshooting info on the H6 engine ECM codes.

http://www.subaru-car.ru/leg1/leg1_sec1_11-2.pdf

Using info in this document, I was able to confirm that I'd replaced the wrong side when I got a P0051 ECM code for Bank 2, Sensor 1. Once I corrected the error, and cleared the code, my CEL has stayed off."
 
#22 ·
The initial code referred to the drivers side sensor and although I did not ask my tech for the exact code, "she" (fricking awesome mechanic) told me it was the same code.
I'm basically grabin at straws because I don't want to spend 30 minutes removing the manifold (not really that hard) its just knowing that some of the clamps, hoses, or connectors will have to be replaced when I do it.... tacking on more time.

I'm just gunna have to bite the bullet next week and get er done. I'm thinkin bout taking lot of pictures and maybe some video, just to pass along the do's and don't of Tribeca knock sensor replacement and trouble shooting.

Thanks for lettin me vent brau, have a great weekend.

Sincerely,

David McGillis
 
#23 ·
Ideally you diagnose this, test the wiring? replacing a sensor without a code is likely to not help.

If I had to remove an intake manifold to get to it and still can’t diagnose it I’d be tempted to see if I could score a spare intake manifold to swap out the entire manifold and wiring harness while I’m doing it.

At least for EJs they’re cheap and tedious visible but Tribeca is less common
 
#24 ·
Sorry, I'm confused:

P0328:
"Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0328
Copyright OBD-Codes.com"

Bank 1 is passenger side.

Is the code not P0328, but rather P0333?

You need to get a code reader (about $20 on amazon) and verify actual code.

P0328 = Passenger side knock sensor voltage high
P0333 = Drivers side knock sensor voltage high

There are of course many more codes associated with the knock sensor...

Tom
 
#25 ·
BTW, removing the instake manifold is not the worst thing in the world. I am not sure about the 06 with the 3.0L but the 3.6L you just have to remember to disconnect the EGR Hose. You can disconnect the fuel hoses and leave them attached to the underside of the intake or disconnect them from the intake and leave them on the fuel rails.
 
#26 ·
Guys I got same problem as OP (check engine + traction control + cruise blink). Asked auto shop and was quoted $500.

Like to try myself by buying the knock sensor from Autozone and install it.

Can anyone give some photos or video (youtube) links to show the knock sensor position and installation process of Tribeca?

Thanks!
 
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