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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought a 2009 Subaru Tribeca Limited a month ago and it has 166k miles on her. Since I have gotten the vehicle about every 2-300 miles this check engine light comes on for the knock sensor. I can clear it with the code reader and it usually goes away for the next few hundred miles and comes back again.

The car runs great.. especially since I just cleaned the throttle body and replaced spark plugs.

When this code comes on it puts the car into some kind of limp mode.. disabling cruise control and traction control. Its very annoying. I see in the records that the previous owner took it in to Subaru to have the sensors looked at and they said sensor was fine and sent it back out. Clearly something is wrong.

Tonight I look at the sensors.. there are 2 on the 3.6L on top of the engine under the throttle body. The one on the passenger side isn't that bad to get to but the other one looks nearly impossible.

I got an $8 sensor off of amazon and replaced the passenger one.. will let you know if it changes anything. Also the code always shows up twice in my scanner... does that mean its both sensors?? Or something else?

Oh and when I clear the code next time I go to start the car it doesn't want to start on the first or second try.. every time.. so weird. Makes my car sound like ****!

BTW this car is sweeeeet.. other than this code.. shes a beast :D

UPDATE ON POST #11
 

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When you clear the code you are actually erasing the learned parameters in the ecm, next time turn the key on let it sit for a minute or two then crank it up. If necessary you can remove the intake to get to the other sensor, that shouldn't be that big of a deal even though it sounds like it.
 

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0328 is bank 1, which is the RH bank on the engine (passenger side in US), so you replaced the correct sensor. If there was a problem on the other bank, you'd be getting a 0332 or 0333 code.

If 0328 comes back after replacing the sensor, you've likely got a wiring or ECM issue. Or you replaced one bad sensor with another bad sensor (was the eBay sensor OEM or aftermarket, new/used?).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is the best news I heard all day that Bank 1 is the one I changed out. I haven't put enough miles on it yet but it seemed to run fine today. I didn't torque it down to spec so hopefully I didn't over torque it too much. It was $8 on Amazon and has no branding on it at all.

I didn't know deleting a code was erasing the ecu parameters! I thought it just deleted the code.. interesting.

I do have a new sound in the front.. when I start driving I hear it from about 0-10 mph..almost like a popping metallic sound? also have an exhaust rattle I think i've tracked down.. its the 3rd cat/resonator in the middle of the car and another sound when I go over bumps in the front.

I thought I fixed the 1 sound by changing the front sway bar bushings with aftermarket but apparently not. Im pretty sure the LCA bushings are shot so could be one of the noises.
 

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Have you checked the serptine belt and the idler pulley? Common issue with the 05-06, and our 08+ are starting to get to an age where it will show up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I didn't notice any leaking from the struts.. maybe they are still bad though.

The belt doesn't have any cracking that I noticed.. the pulleys do make a little noise. I was thinking about replacing the bearings eventually.
 

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After sway bar bushings, I would suggest that drop links are next commonest wear item. Noise from exhaust is usually heat shield - typically creates a 'buzzing' noise on certain throttle positions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So far so good with the knock sensor. The code hasn't come back and its been 600+ miles. So hopefully it wont come back.

The suspension noises are driving me nuts still. I just ordered the proforged sway bar endlinks from Amazon. Will see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Going to resurrect this thread as I have got another Knock Sensor code again :(

And its the dreaded P0333 meaning its the driver side sensor this time.

Looks impossible to get to unless I remove the entire intake manifold??

Anyone ever change this one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Received the $8 knock sensor from eBay today. Am I going to be the first one to try and replace this without removing the intake manifold? The tech docs say to remove it all and its hours of work.. there has got to be an easier way lol.
 

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Drivers side knock sensor replacement

I recently replaced the drivers side knock sensor on my 09 Tribeca with 200K plus miles on it. The dealer wanted $130 for the part and $488 labor. I got the part at O'reilly for $80 and spent maybe an hour figuring out how to replace it. I am assuming at $488 the dealer was charging to remove the intake. I removed the air box behind the throttle body and was able to reach under the intake manifold and unhook the electrical connector which was a promising sign, then I tried a stubby box end wrench and could not get a good enough grip or or ability to turn the bolt.
I them was able to get a socket extension past the alternator? bracket and then connect a 10 or12 mm socket extension with a universal joint attached, it was tight, but once loosened I went back under and removed by hand, and then hand tightened the new one down in the same position so when I went to tighten back down it wouldn't move. Tightened it up and have not had an issue with the lights or code since. Hope this helps anyone that has to replace one of these. I am no expert but will try a lot of repairs before I hire it out.
















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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I recently replaced the drivers side knock sensor on my 09 Tribeca with 200K plus miles on it. The dealer wanted $130 for the part and $488 labor. I got the part at O'reilly for $80 and spent maybe an hour figuring out how to replace it. I am assuming at $488 the dealer was charging to remove the intake. I removed the air box behind the throttle body and was able to reach under the intake manifold and unhook the electrical connector which was a promising sign, then I tried a stubby box end wrench and could not get a good enough grip or or ability to turn the bolt.
I them was able to get a socket extension past the alternator? bracket and then connect a 10 or12 mm socket extension with a universal joint attached, it was tight, but once loosened I went back under and removed by hand, and then hand tightened the new one down in the same position so when I went to tighten back down it wouldn't move. Tightened it up and have not had an issue with the lights or code since. Hope this helps anyone that has to replace one of these. I am no expert but will try a lot of repairs before I hire it out.

Good to hear you were able to replace it. I have replaced both sensors now and that driver side one is an absolute ***** to get to but it can be done and without removing all the crap the manual says.

BTW the $8 chinese sensors out there do work.. at least the ones I bought did. Just look at it closely with the old one you took out as my new sensor had a slightly misplaced plastic on the side of it where the harness connector slides over it.. I was jamming the connector in wonder why it wouldn't fit and it didn't match... I ripped apart the harness connector in the process. Still was able to slide it on though.. its just not as tight as I would want it.
 

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Guess I'm not the only one

Fellas, My 06 Tribeca now has 201,000 miles and looks as good as the day I drove it off the lot with 27 miles on it. I've been fightin the issue of replacing the knock sensor on the drivers side for about six months, because I don't want to pay out the whazoo for a part and four times that amount for someone else to do it.
I have the parts on hand... and am hoping I do not need the new intake manifold gaskets I bought. i'm gunna dive under the hood tonight and with a little luck and a couple of blessing, my thirteen and a half year old Subi will be runnin like a champ once again.
This thread of yours has only reinforced my thoughts of doin it myself and saving the money for important things... like good wine for momma, n some cold beer for me :)
 

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Done.... kinda

OK, Knock sensor installed and it took me about an hour without pulling the intake manifold. Biggest issue was trying to line up the new sensor and get the bolt started, with no room to get your fingers on it. I fabricated a couple of new tools that would work like a couple of chopsticks with hooks on the ends, out of an old metal clothes hanger.
I did NOT buy an eight-dollar sensor; instead, I opted for a Duralast Knock Sensor that I ordered online from Auto Zone. Their part number is SU6846 for $47.99 and it was an exact match and clicked right into place, but… I don’t think my problem is over.
The check engine lights are still on, even after sitting all night not connected to the battery. I will swing by Auto Zone at lunchtime and have them check out the codes, delete them and cross my fingers. I did NOT like the looks of the wiring harness just 1-3 inches from my new sensor.
If I get the same codes coming back, I’m pretty sure it will be a wiring issue.
 

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Well crap! same code, dummy lights are staying illuminated and even though the ol girl is running great, I can't use my cruse control... Now I need to plan out a Saturday or Sunday when I can pull off the whole frickin manifold, so I can try and surgically repair that small portion of wiring harness.
I couldn't help but notice that newer vehicles across the board have gone to a knock sensor with a clip on pigtail... It woulda been nice.
 

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So, I haven't had the time to try and take off the manifold and inspect the wiring on knock sensor I replaced, so... do you think replacing the knock sensor on the other side may help, since I only replaced one on the drivers side?
 

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There are different codes for different sides. Yours is 'side 1' I can never remember if that is drivers or Passengers..
 
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