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We should be seeing 5k mile intervals with little or no adverse effect on the engine whatsoever. That's the beauty of having a non-turbo boxer engine; there's no turbo using the engine's oil and breaking it down faster than necessary.

Don't forget to rotate the tires every other oil change if you're going the 5k route :)
 

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Thanks, had a look at the service manual
5k > 12.5K > 25K > 37.5K etc (this is km) though mentions service is required more frequently under severe driving conditions, so I assume around 8K intervals would be sufficient.
 

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I do every 4k-5k...when I get around to it. 5k shouldn't be a problem for pretty much any late model car. Heck my 03 V6 Accord has a factory RECOMMENDED oil change interval of 7.5k, and the 4-banger is 10k! I still do every 5k though:p
 

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The biggest thing to keep in mind is that while it's okay to go more and more miles between oil changes (as oils are developed that resist breakdown for longer and longer periods), you should still change every four to six months or so. Old oil becomes more acidic with the passage of time, and acid is baaaaad ju-ju for internals.
 

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jimbo said:
The biggest thing to keep in mind is that while it's okay to go more and more miles between oil changes (as oils are developed that resist breakdown for longer and longer periods), you should still change every four to six months or so. Old oil becomes more acidic with the passage of time, and acid is baaaaad ju-ju for internals.
Yeah:tup: I had to convince my grandfather to change the oil in his 02 MB E430 at least twice a year...he only drive the dang car about 2k miles per year:rolleyes: :eek: He got the car slightly used in 03, and then I found out he went 1.5 yrs before his first oil change:headwall:
 

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I live in AZ (Phoenix area), so with the excessive heat and dust, I change mine faithfully at 4k. I rotate my tires at the same time. I also check the engine air filter and pollen filter more regularly, and change them whenever they're needed.

If I lived in a less drastic climate, I would probably go 5-6k. However, I am a 4-time Subie owner, and this rule of thumb has served me very well with each of these vehicles, all driven primarily in the Phx/AZ desert area.

Hope this helps!

-Karen in AZ-
 

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That's probably smart to do, Karen. I would think that the temperatures there would lead to viscosity breakdown sooner than in other climates.

Up here in Maine, we don't face all the same problems...unless you count the lack of AUX port in the new car.

[threadjack]
Thanks for the quality walkthrough. I've procured all the parts necessary, and I plan to install this weekend (with a copy of your work right next to me.)
[/threadjack]
 

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I looked at my 09 manual and it says to change it every 7k unless you have the H6 engine and then do it at 3750k. I am a big fan of frequent oil changes. Oil is cheap and is the life-blood of your vehicle. I will change mine every 3500.
 

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I figured I would cut and paste my response from an older thread right here because it appears the oil question has come back up again.
You can check out the whole thread here.
http://www.sb9t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41


I figured I would post responses to both of you in one post. Highwayman you are correct in one area that the term synthetic is really meaningless in the US. In Europe synthetic REQUIRES the oil be from a group 4 base stock, nothing to do with the additives! In the US the LEGAL standard requires at least some group 3 base stock but can be mostly group 2 base stock, neither of which really fall into the traditional definition of synthetic.

The additive package is just that, it does not relate to synthetic or not. It provide protection once the oil is not capable of providing "Hydrodynamic Lubrication" (the metal parts float on a surface of oil) which usually happens when either a poor quility oil is used, the wrong grade or just extreme conditions. The additive package also has anti foaming and acid neutralizing agents. Most oil sludging is due to poor quality oil which usually doesn't have enough additives to continue to neutalize all the acids over the life of the oil service under certain conditions(like soccer moms wiith short trips and not fully warming up)

Certain synthetic oils marketed in the US do actually use group 4 base stocks. One in partucular is Castrol Syntec 0w30 which is made in Europe but required in most 2006 and up Mercedes engines.

The change to long life oils and extended drain intervals is not a cost savings idea from maintanence cost but it is for warranty. In the first 300 miles after an oil service the most contaminants are flashed out of the oil and these are the #1 cause of catalytic converter failures. Sulphated ash, phosphorus and sulfer lead to premature catalyst failure and the federal government is starting to require 150,000 mile warrantys on them.

The increase use of good quality oil and extended drain intervals has become more necessary to allow this long of a warranty. Many manufacturers do not have any requirement other than the basic SM and GF4 rating. Just about every oil on the market meets these ratings. Even the lowest ACEA rating, A1/B1 is better than this highest US rating. Look for at least A3/B3 or A3/B4 to get a good quality oil.

There is no requirement of using "Dino" oil for a period of time before switching to synthetic. Synthetic oil is "Dino" oil just better refined.

As a side note I just change my wife's B9 over to Castrol Syntec 5w30 at 40,000 miles and plan on changing every 6,000 miles with a premium filter. We bought it with 33,000 miles on it. My 1996 Legacy with 198,000 gets synthetic 10w30 and the oil consumption issue is gone and I go 6,000 miles between services.
 

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I use Mobil 1 and change the oil every 5k. I've done this with all my cars over the last 20 years and have never had any engine problems (2 BMWs, the rest all Japanese).
 

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The oil change frequency on my 2008 Tribeca is around 5,000 miles. Use 5W-30 Amsoil with Subaru filters. when they are gone will use the Amsoil filters (my son is a dealer).
 

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I change oil myself once a year. I only do about 6K miles (10,000 km) per year with the Tribeca.
I use Mobile 1 Extended performance full synthetic 5W-30 with Mobile 1 filter.
 

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Peace said:
I change oil myself once a year. I only do about 6K miles (10,000 km) per year with the Tribeca.
I use Mobile 1 Extended performance full synthetic 5W-30 with Mobile 1 filter.
Just a bit of information, standard Mobil 1 5w30 is a better grade of oil and meets more specifications than the extended performance you are using. Why pay more money for a lower quality oil?
 

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MNSteve said:
The oil change frequency on my 2008 Tribeca is around 5,000 miles. Use 5W-30 Amsoil with Subaru filters. when they are gone will use the Amsoil filters (my son is a dealer).
Amsoil is a higher quality oil than basic Mobil 1 or Castrol syntec(at least the 5w30) but for most people it is very pricey.
 

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swootton said:
Just a bit of information, standard Mobil 1 5w30 is a better grade of oil and meets more specifications than the extended performance you are using. Why pay more money for a lower quality oil?
Honestly I have never compared those two until now. It probably a lazy man's thing to just assume Extended performance was better for my long oil change intervals than "Regular" Mobile 1. (The xtra cost is rather minimal.)

Not sure what you mean by "better grade" and "lower quality"?
The specs seem very similar to me, but I am not knowledgeable enough to interpret what a significant difference is, and which are important. Also the flora of industry standards was rather hard to interpret...there were so many of them..OMG.

I'd be very happy if you explained
 

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I will post some updated specification information in the next couple days. I just need to find the time to pull it all together.
 
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