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Both my front and rear rotors are warped and I'm thinking about replacing them but I do have a question. I wanted to know if I could get sport drilled & slotted brakes for the front and regular OEM rotors for the rear. Will thus affect my handling and suspension? The front are performance and the rear just regular.
 

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If you want something that's drilled, be sure you get something good so that it doesn't crack.

Also, realize that what you're doing here is entirely cosmetic and not performance related.

The stock Tribeca's braking performance is actually pretty good for something of its class (check various published braking distance observations). To insure maximum performance, properly bed your replacement components as well as bleed/replace the brake fluid. [ Aside: towards the former, are you positive that the rotors are actually warped - and that it's not pad deposits ( http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths )? Pad deposits is something that has plagued the BL/BP-chassis Legacy community, for example).

Replacing older rubber brake lines or upgrading to stainless steel lines (if one can be found) can potentially restore better brake feel, should your vehicle be older.

Braking is also heavily dependent on tires - upgrading your tires to match your projected driving habits and conditions will help maximize brake performance.

There's a lot to be considered when upgrading brake components. The new units can contribute to unsprung weight. "Big Brake Kits" installed without consideration to brake bias may shift braking balance so as to become unfavorable (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bbk-brake-bias-list-30088.html). Using more aggressive pads which may not reach operating temperatures quickly enough (or remain hot enough) during normal street driving can make little Timmy's accidentally letting his soccer ball fly out into your residential side street just as you start your commute in to work a bit more hairy than it ought to be. It's not as easy of an equation as it seems - bigger and more expensive does not necessarily mean better.
 

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:) Thanks. :)

Just tryin' to save a fellow Tribeca driver/lover some money - and stay safe, too!

I had BBKs and S/S lines on my DSMs and my LGT. All were for show only. As long as they were no worse than stock and didn't do anything funny to the ABS, I was happy as I just wanted something to better fill the void in my larger-than-stock rims. To *really* get better performance, there's a lot of thinking that goes into it or, alternatively, there's a lot more $$$$s that have to go into it.

It's like that K&N filter. ;)

Really, for a vehicle like the Tribeca, it's more about maintaining its factory components and optimizing the tires. Everything else either requires a lot more money and effort, or are more or less just placebo at best.
 

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another thing worth mentioning, slotted/drilled rotors are noisier than stock. not too noticeable with windows up, but with windows down it can get annoying.

like tsiwrx said this is pretty much an aesthetic mod. it would probably go unnoticed hidden behind the stock tribeca wheels.
 

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another thing worth mentioning, slotted/drilled rotors are noisier than stock. not too noticeable with windows up, but with windows down it can get annoying.
Doh! I completely forgot about that! VERY good point. Thank you!

They can really play crazy with the way certain vehicles are built/constructed.

One set of cross-drilled I had on one of my DSMs literally would whistle every time the wheels weren't pointed straight ahead.

Not that bad for me at the time as a hard-rockin' :eek::p:lol: guy in his early 20s. I don't think I ever had the stereo below the 11th notch, and that thing had no trunk because it was all sound system. :D
 

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like tsiwrx said this is pretty much an aesthetic mod. it would probably go unnoticed hidden behind the stock tribeca wheels.
I agree. Unless you're you've got painted calipers or a/m wheels, there's no point in slotted rotors on the Tribeca.

Not that bad for me at the time as a hard-rockin' :eek::p:lol: guy in his early 20s. I don't think I ever had the stereo below the 11th notch, and that thing had no trunk because it was all sound system. :D
For a hard rocking guy in his early 20's, your respect for history and tradition is quite commendable.
 

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^ :lol:

Well, I was in my 20s in the late-90s to the early '00s, so I'm not *that* young. :p

Considering that I'm raising my daughter on the same movies I saw and loved as a kid/teen, it's little wonder that This is Spinal Tap was on my (parents' and their friends') Laserdisc.

"Well, it's one louder, isn't it?" :cool:
 

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man i am still running on all original Rotors Just replaced the pads with american made Wagner Thermoquiet at 55k miles and still braking like the day i took her out the dealership no vibration noise or anything i my opinion the stock rotors are VERY GOOD:tup:
 

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Just changed my brake pads out today with Wagner Thermoquiet at 57k miles. I could have gone another 10k miles as I had a lot of pad left, but I was already taking things apart. Brake pedal feel much better now.
 

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On my 2007, I replaced the original front rotors with drilled ones, still have the original rears (after having them resurfaced). No noise, braking feels the same.
 

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Since this is a brake thread and they were mentioned I thought I would throw out there that Tire Rack has braided stainless lines for the Tribeca. It is one of the things I want to do.
 

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what parts to use- not going drilled

ok- Just I just read through this thread, i decided not to get drilled.

I think have 132k on stock rotors( I bought the car w 55k). My brakes are great ,but pads are 2mm in rear and 5mm in front.

I think I am going to do front and back.

I just want a good OEM job, for another 100k.

would you turn rotors or go new? what pads would you use..there is a million choices.

happy holidays friends!
 

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If you liked the stock feel, just get stock pads. They are about the same price if you have a dealer near by. Do you have any pulsing or shaking when braking? If so, turn them, if not, leave them along and just bed the brakes in (plenty of info on how to do this). Only out new rotors on if they are below minimum thickness. You could go aftermarket there, but price against OEM, as OEM is very good. I would probably see if my local yard had used ones with low miles.
 

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for those looking to stay stock or close to it, Centric rotors and pads are pretty decent, unlike autozone/napa etc I never had any issues with centric parts its not really performance but I feel they are better than most in same price range.

as for drilled/slotted I've tried them and I tend to like them more than flat, like others said its 99% cosmetic and if you just get drilled most likely they will start to wear grooves mush faster than blank rotors.

The only two advantages that i found, in the rain when you sit at constant speed for a few minutes that no brakes half a second feel is pretty much gone as water has places to go to, and with slots I noticed much less brake deposits on the rotors. that is it no other benefit what so ever.
 

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rear pads are thermoquiet

I put on the rear brakes yesterday. I am learning and its gets easier each time. I couldnt wait for rockauto, so I bought local.

I bought wagner thermoquiet as recommended in this thread and I bought autozone rotors at 55 each.


the interface likes to rust, so a gave it a light sanding and rustpoofing spray, even insid ethe fins..i hate the rust and I saw on line the better rotors are rust treated.

just by doing the rear brakes...they are awesome! I would do thermoqiet again for sure.

car stops so much better.


PS: I about hit the garage wall, as I didnt seat the disk and advance the piston before I started the car. newby error.
initially very soft pedal until it firmed up.

once wheel is off, you only need to take off 3 - 14mm headed bolts
 

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Squeal and shudder

After a few thousand miles w my new pads and rotors, I developed an annoying squeal as I begin to slow to a stop .

I put the anti-squeal rubber material on the back, the type that comes in a spray can, let it dry, reassembled and squeal when away for 1000 miles.

Squeal came back with a vengeance and is now transformed into a shutter. The shudder or shutter does not cause with the steering wheel to shake.

The shutter I am Describing is a noise that is easily heard from the passenger side too.

The shutter does not happen until my speed is reducing by about 10 miles an hour to stop. I can control the shutter by modulating the pedal pressure.

No shudder in a hard brake from say 60 -20 mph. Only appears from 10 mph to 0

My pads and rotors are all new in the last year

Thanks for any help you could offer
 

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What you described - shudder at 0-10 but nothing 20-60 - sounds like the quintessential symptom of warped rotors to me. The fact that they're new within the past year is irrelevant... cheap, bad or defective rotors can go at any time.
 

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i'd say its the pads, I once bought wagner for my outback and they were great one day i was getting an oil change and mentioned to my mechanic, he said i got lucky. From his expirience with wagner its a 50/50 change that they will squeal this is not just subaru but more of wagner related. He is also a subaru person and had a couple of RSs and sti's over the years. I was thinking he is full of it. When time came to change pads again I went with wagner as I thought maybe they got it right for the outback pads nope sqealed from day one, for about a month until i ditched them.

So in your case I think squealing is caused be wagner pads, but the feeling is probably brake pad deposit and or sticking slider pin.
 

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Fixing brakes squeal shutter and shudder

I figured I had nothing to lose. I went out did a disk break in run.

As soon as my rotors got hot my squeal and shudder went away.

I did several sessions of 40 to 10 mile an hour decelerations, I could smell the rotors get hot. I let them cool with the wheels rotating.

And now for the first time in six months I have no squeal and no shutter Or shudder

I'm suspicious of a purple power degreaser I was using on the wheels. I think that stuff got embedded into my rotors and pads and induced asqeal and shutter

It's the only answer I can come up with.

I know it's odd but I had the car up at the local mechanic and he was stumped

too when it was shuddering
 
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