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Discussion Starter #1
So, a couple of months ago, we finally killed our 2008 3.6L by spinning the rod bearings. My wife loves her Subaru, so my dad and I decided to bite the bullet and get a new short block and bring the car back to life.
We had the heads rebuilt and machined, new spark plugs, new oil pump, one fuel injector (because the stupid black cap was lost and you can't purchase it alone), complete rebuild gasket set, radiator hoses, all new bolts for the timing cover, Subaru transmission (which I haven't even gotten to yet) and of course oil filter, fresh oil and coolant. I should note the I have already replaced the water pump after we had a broken valve 2 years ago.
Last weekend was my first attempt to start it and it ran terribly. disassembled the front of the engine and realized the timing was off. Luckily not bad enough to impact the valves, but needed to be corrected. Delayed again because I realized the harmonic balancer was cracked and was going to be the next great thing to fall apart, so I ordered that from my local dealer.
Today, I was meticulous with the timing, not wanting to make another mistake that could destroy our investment. I took pictures which I can post once I load them on the computer. Satisfied, I reassembled the engine, refilled the oil and coolant and reconnected the battery.
The car turns over, but will not run. The battery is still good, kept it on trickle charger the past couple of months since I only have one or two days I can work on the car (I call it my part time job! :lol:) Tried spraying starter fluid into the throttle body, but nothing. Something tells me that it is not getting spark, but I have no idea why. Fuel could be bad, but it ran last weekend, terrible, but it started.
I had to just walk away from it right now, I am just so tired of working on the car and I think that it is tired of me too! Any thoughts about where to start looking or testing? I have the Subaru Tech Manual and I will be diving into it as well. No check engine codes.
 

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Most likely, engine flooding.
With it unable to vent correctly, you likely have build up
unplug maf(will generate code) may also want to unplug map ,then try to start it

If it is flooded it should start in 5 to 6 tries
if it does not then something else entirely

after it starts, let it run 20 minutes, then pull fuel relay
Once the engine has come to a stop
plug Maf(and Map) back in
plug fuel relay back in
check to make sure all codes generated are MaF/Temp/Map low signal
 

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Discussion Starter #3
***Updates, and still not out of the woods***

After finally defeating my starting issues (discovered that the crank position sensor had impacted the sensor plate. after removing the engine AGAIN, car starts and runs), I am still having issues.
We drove the car for nearly a month before the thing just died one day on my wife on the way home. Codes were:

P0198 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High (This one has come on and gone off a couple of times since the rebuild)

P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low

P0222 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1

The battery also gave out while the car was waiting on the tow truck. I made the assumption that these codes were all related to the battery getting weak. Dropped a battery that was taken out of my brother's car that took a good charge and I proceeded to head to the store for oil and a test run. The car did the same thing to me, it didn't die, but was no longer responding to the gas pedal. I was able to get it back home, basically a high idle and 15 mph.

I am stumped. I am not sure if I am in over my head at this point or if I am just overlooking something. If anyone could give me clues or direction, or even ask me more questions that I can look into, please pass them along. My wife wants her car back, and I have invested a lot of money trying to do just that. I'm in too deep to stop now.
 

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The pedal problems will put the car in to limp mode, as you saw. You can only go 15mph.

I think you are looking at a wiring issue there. I'd relook at the connectors for the throttle. It could be down by the pedal as well, although I would be surprised if you unplugged something down there, and is likely something in the engine compartment.

The P0420 could be real or a ground issue. P0198 looks like a wiring or ground issue.

Good luck, chasing these problems after putting so much in to it is disheartening. Stay after it, you will get it!

Tom
 

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Consider asking over at subaruoutback.org. Same engine as the H6 in the outback. More knowledgeable people over there.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Consider asking over at subaruoutback.org. Same engine as the H6 in the outback. More knowledgeable people over there.

Tom
Yes, after finally getting my password reset, I have asked on SubaruOutback.org and have some things to search for on the grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update
Took our poor Subie to a real mechanic to diagnose the electrical issues. The wire harness had some shorts from the pin side of the harness and now we had have a running car again. Still seems to have too much smoke on start up and after not driving it for nearly 6 months, I am still working little issues out.
On a happy note, I installed a bluetooth kit that I bought last Christmas for my wife's use in the car. It works great and my wife is excited again for her car.
 
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