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I cannot find the rear strut top “access panels” in my 2008 3.6 two row seating Tribeca. I want to bump up the height with modest 20mm Tema4x4 spacers. Is there hope for me to avoid removing the interior side panels? If there is a way, please offer a clear description. Thank you.
 

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Thank you SoHo. That was clear and helpful. I will check my Tribeca when it returns home from having the park sensor replaced. Should I expect a 20mm strut mount spacer to give me a 20mm lift. I have not inspected the geometry. Will the camber be off?
 

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About 2" added to ground clearance
Hey SoHo,

Can you please share what tire size you are running?

I suspect you are rubbing at full lock in the front? I know when I measured to go with taller than stock tires, there was about .5" clearance in the front of the wheel well before it would contact the fender liner/belly pan just before full lock. I've considered just massaging this a bit, or revising it so I can fit taller tires. I drive a lot on gravel so would like to keep the majority of the fender liners in tact.

Thanks - Jon
 

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Thread Resurrection!!! I am not looking to lift my Tribeca really, but I am looking to compensate for cargo/passenger and hitch weight while towing. Family of 5 with gear in the car while towing a 2600 pounds travel trailer. Currently, when I have ~150lbs on the hitch and gear in the car, it sags quite a bit. So I am looking to add 30mm rear spacers. My question is this, If I do so, and will be sagging, will I need a camber adjustment? If I adjust the camber with the spacers when the vehicle is unladen, I would still experience the same amount of negative camber when loaded right? So allowing a positive camber with the spacers unladen, should reduce negative camber when laden right? In my mind, not adjusting the camber would be the best option while ensuring that the toe and caster are adjusted. Any input would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I havent performed ANY alignment on my lifted Tribeca, and the tires look great, this after 5 years. I will likely need new tires next winter, but generally impressed how well they held up. Falken Wildpeak 265/60/18s.
 

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@dug-e-fresh would be interesting to see your alignment printout now. what are roads you drive(paved, unpaved, visiting @89sandman in his forest park)? HOW do you drive(spirited driving, grandma goes to visit cemetary...)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
@dug-e-fresh would be interesting to see your alignment printout now. what are roads you drive(paved, unpaved, visiting @89sandman in his forest park)? HOW do you drive(spirited driving, grandma goes to visit cemetary...)?
Mixed driving on all fronts. Most miles come via highway and paved roads tho. Have about 60k miles on these tires. Haven't really rotated them all that regularly either.
 
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Mixed driving on all fronts. Most miles come via highway and paved roads tho. Have about 60k miles on these tires. Haven't really rotated them all that regularly either.
Would you mind breaking down what I need to get to lift my vehicle? I looked at a previous post where you mentioned that you had some spacers from Siberia and achieved like 3 inches of lift with no alignment?

I am driving some pretty nasty roads and could really use that level of clearance.

Thanks.
 

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if you need translation - let me know :)
 

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I think you can go upto 30mm of strut mount spacer and longer studs on the rear without needing an allignment (since one can't be done with the parts that come with our vehicle). Any higher then that will require after market parts to be able to adjust the camber, jump in anyone with more experience then myself...
 

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if I would require vehicle to be higher - I would start with larger wheels.
about 30mm or more - either way it requires - either ability to make 3d drawings and understand what is going on and all the lovely thingies like camber curves etc
OR - just put it on and drive to alignment and go from there :D
 
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