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Leaking valve covers.. part question

5696 Views 19 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Flat6er
2009 Subaru Tribeca

My valve cover gaskets are leaking.. not surprised as the car has almost 172k on it.

So each side needs the 3 spark plug gaskets and the valve cover gasket. Does the 3.6L need the half moon gasket things replaced that you see on other Subaru engines? I see no mention of them anywhere for this car.

Also anything else I will need while in there? I've already done the spark plugs before I realized the gaskets were leaking.

Im leaning towards buying the parts below:
BECK/ARNLEY 0361965 & 0361964 from Rockauto.. about $20 for each side.
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Not the snobby or PC answer, and probably not even the *right* answer in this case, but perhaps food for thought. With 172k miles, have you considered going to a high mileage oil to see what happens? Not sure if this is your only vehicle, but if it isn't it might be worth a shot. The other seals could probably use it regardless. How bad are the VC's leaking? When it comes to Flat engines like these, the least intrusive method is most often the correct answer for me. I have no time for BS since I own several other cars that also give me trouble.
Not the snobby or PC answer, and probably not even the *right* answer in this case, but perhaps food for thought. With 172k miles, have you considered going to a high mileage oil to see what happens? Not sure if this is your only vehicle, but if it isn't it might be worth a shot. The other seals could probably use it regardless. How bad are the VC's leaking? When it comes to Flat engines like these, the least intrusive method is most often the correct answer for me. I have no time for BS since I own several other cars that also give me trouble.
I am using Castrol High Mileage 10w30. I have only had the car since 164k so I have no idea what they were using before. 1 owner that took it to the Subaru dealership all the time so I am assuming it used regular oil.

The leak seems to be mainly from the passenger side and just a drip here and there. I think more oil is coming out at higher revs though since an oil trail is all over the trans and exhaust behind the VC. I had a leak from the oil cooler also and I fixed that and thought that was it but now this.

I have done the valve cover gaskets on the 2.5L before and its very easy.. this one seems more difficult to get to.
It's an hourish to do the covers. Plug seals are seven and a quarter and the main seals is eighteen or so for the real parts...not a fan of aftermarket parts and doing jobs twice.

From memory, a quarter inch drive torque wrench fits on all but the one bolt by the oil line.
+1 on using OEM parts. Although this job took me about 3 hours on my FXT for just one side and that is one cylinder less. It also seemed to have more clearance than the Tribeca as well. I am EXTREMELY careful and clean when I do work like this though. If I can't see the work that I am doing completely, I am EXTRA careful so I don't need to do it again.
I ordered the Beck/Arnley parts from rockauto. I'll let you all know how the install goes. Thanks!
I ordered the Beck/Arnley parts from rockauto. I'll let you all know how the install goes. Thanks!
Good luck, hopefully it goes well.
The half moons don't need to be replaced unless they're leaking. If they are, you can simply remove, clean and reinstall with fresh RTV provided they're intact and not cracked.
The half moons don't need to be replaced unless they're leaking. If they are, you can simply remove, clean and reinstall with fresh RTV provided they're intact and not cracked.
Thanks for the reply! The Subaru mechanic I spoke to at the dealer says its easier to just unbolt the engine from its mounts and jack the engine up some to give you more access. I will give that a shot.
You need to use RTV in strategic places:

See extract from FSM:

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Did the Valve Cover gasket change today. Was mostly smooth except the driver side rear lower bolt.. holy moly is that a pain in the A$$!!! There is barely any room to get in there and remove the bolt. Luckily my car is a Florida car so no rust/corrosion. I finally got it with a 10mm ratcheting wrench and some strategic planning and hand placement.

Couple of things I found out that people may want to know.

I have a 2009 so its the EZ36 engine

*No half moons on this engine.. so no RTV needed (I believe the EZ30 has these half moons)
*Beck Arnley is the same as OEM, Says made in Japan on the package and they make the gaskets for Subaru.. perfect fit.
*You can do this job with out disconnecting engine mounts and raising engine (although that would make it easier id assume)
*Use anti seize on the bolts.. they go back in so much easier.. very limited room so any little bit helps
*Have a large piece of cardboard under the car and a oil catch bucket.. lots of oil came out all over the place
*You don't need to remove the fuse box on driver side.. Battery yes
*Use brake cleaner to clean out the valve cover and I sprayed a towel with the brake cleaner and wiped all surfaces clean that the gasket will touch

If you have any questions about this job let me know!
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Did the Valve Cover gasket change today. Was mostly smooth except the driver side rear lower bolt.. holy moly is that a pain in the A$$!!! There is barely any room to get in there and remove the bolt. Luckily my car is a Florida car so no rust/corrosion. I finally got it with a 10mm ratcheting wrench and some strategic planning and hand placement.

Couple of things I found out that people may want to know.

I have a 2009 so its the EZ36 engine

*No half moons on this engine.. so no RTV needed (I believe the EZ30 has these half moons)
*Beck Arnley is the same as OEM, Says made in Japan on the package and they make the gaskets for Subaru.. perfect fit.
*You can do this job with out disconnecting engine mounts and raising engine (although that would make it easier id assume)
*Use anti seize on the bolts.. they go back in so much easier.. very limited room so any little bit helps
*Have a large piece of cardboard under the car and a oil catch bucket.. lots of oil came out all over the place
*You don't need to remove the fuse box on driver side.. Battery yes
*Use brake cleaner to clean out the valve cover and I sprayed a towel with the brake cleaner and wiped all surfaces clean that the gasket will touch

If you have any questions about this job let me know!
Thanks for the info even though it is for the 3.6.....probably similar demographics as far as space goes. Are you using Castrol GTX or Edge High Mileage? I didn't notice your previous response to my post, sorry.

Just curious.
Castrol Edge High Mileage
Cool beans, the nectar of the Gods in my case IMO.
Did the Valve Cover gasket change today. Was mostly smooth except the driver side rear lower bolt.. holy moly is that a pain in the A$$!!! There is barely any room to get in there and remove the bolt. Luckily my car is a Florida car so no rust/corrosion. I finally got it with a 10mm ratcheting wrench and some strategic planning and hand placement.

Couple of things I found out that people may want to know.

I have a 2009 so its the EZ36 engine

*No half moons on this engine.. so no RTV needed (I believe the EZ30 has these half moons)
*Beck Arnley is the same as OEM, Says made in Japan on the package and they make the gaskets for Subaru.. perfect fit.
*You can do this job with out disconnecting engine mounts and raising engine (although that would make it easier id assume)
*Use anti seize on the bolts.. they go back in so much easier.. very limited room so any little bit helps
*Have a large piece of cardboard under the car and a oil catch bucket.. lots of oil came out all over the place
*You don't need to remove the fuse box on driver side.. Battery yes
*Use brake cleaner to clean out the valve cover and I sprayed a towel with the brake cleaner and wiped all surfaces clean that the gasket will touch

If you have any questions about this job let me know!
Doing research and gathering parts as I will be doing this repair in a couple of weeks. Any tips on accessing that one bolt that's hard to reach without raising the engine?
"I finally got it with a 10mm ratcheting wrench and some strategic planning and hand placement. " gotta check that bolt out tomorrow... while car is on lift in workshop - might get useful one day.
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Finally did this a few weeks ago. It's important to torque the 10mm bolts to spec and in correct sequence to avoid leaks. For driver side rear lower bolt, I used a 75 deg offset wrench to loosen and remove. To tighten it, I used a ratcheting wrench with pry bar to push down on it. Here are some photos to illustrate. No need to lift the engine.
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finally - somebody posting with pictures and meaningful explanation!
Replace the PCV valve while you are in there, they tend to clog.
pcv valve is on top of engine, easily accessible - I wouldn't worry about it much.
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