Subaru B9 Trifecta SUV Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi SB9Ters,

I had a 2009 Tribeca and found recently some burning smells after driving.
After checking I found some green color liquid on the left (#2, if look forward) catalytic converter (see photos),
but not sure what's it (engine oil, coolant, other fluid ...), and where it comes from (no idea any gasket or valve above, didn't find any document).

Thanks in advance if you can give any hint!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
green could be coolant (though, I am not sure at the moment - if that is original(I think original was blue?)... I am too lazy to check right now anyway).
But looking at how thick it is - it could be like CV joint grease...
greenleak.jpg - barely shows that CV joint boot, which I would check first(front left driveshafts inner cv joint), also leftup.jpg suggests that location.
p.s. congratulations on your first post since your registration here - 12years ago :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
green could be coolant (though, I am not sure at the moment - if that is original(I think original was blue?)... I am too lazy to check right now anyway).
But looking at how thick it is - it could be like CV joint grease...
greenleak.jpg - barely shows that CV joint boot, which I would check first(front left driveshafts inner cv joint), also leftup.jpg suggests that location.
p.s. congratulations on your first post since your registration here - 12years ago :D
Thank you for pointing out the CV joint grease as the source of the black spot. I'll ask mechanics to check if the cv boot (gaiter?) has such a grease leaking, or it's just accidentally dropped to the catalytic converter for some reason, since I didn't heard any of this grease leaking issue before.

But no matter how the grease dropped, I expect it's the source of the burning smell - I'm not sure because I cannot crawl in to smell it closely. Maybe it's time to pump the jack myself and begin to take care of it.

As for the green liquid, it's still a puzzle. I know the the transmission liquid is red, coolant is blue, so it might be brake fluid, power steering fluid, or differential gear oil? I'm still in searching of documents to learning what kind of gasket / housing / valve stays right above that position, perhaps better than guessing the color : )

I'm not sure if it's a coincidence that the green liquid and the black joint grease both dropped to the hot catalytic convertor. Is it possible that the black spot is simply the residue of the green liquid after evaporating from the hot converter surface (I don't know if it's hot or not, but that can explain the burning smell).

Yes I'm glad to be BACK to this place after so long, and get some professional opinions from actual owners who really know and care this specific SUV. 😁
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update: Just heard back from mechanic, had good news and bad news:

Good: Green liquid is just the diluted grease - after the grease mud was baked on top of the converter. So there's actualy no green liquid leaked elsewhere;
Bad: Quoted me $360 to change the axis, Or $310 to change the boot. Fortunately I did some homework before, and refused both option and will try myself by first tightening clamps and checking boot flaws.

I'll update some underbody photos later : )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
brake fluid is not green (at least, I haven't seen any like that).
power steering and differential - neither.

if it is not grease from CV joint (which, I believe is about above CAT) - then I would really like to know what it is :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After 2 Hr's diagnosis, i identified the leaking point, unfortunately a crack on boot (Orange Circle in pic 2).



2447
2449


I think it's the only leak point b/c after cleaning from pic 1, only the circled spot had new leaks.

I'm not sure what is the green ? position and why there's grease too, since the thin rubber there seems open from the beginning.

I found Youtube video showing how to quick fix the boot using simple glue and tapes, and will follow it. Parts had been ordered and be on the way.

Never been so happy after rejecting autoshop's $360 replacing whole axis plan, b/c I did homework before and knew it's a trick.

But lying under the car body and take pics was really hard!

A question here: The crack surface needs to be cleaned and dried before patching. But since the crack hides inside and open downward (so the grease will keep filling into the crack), how can I expose the cracking spot? Can I turn boot 180 degree without loosing the ring? Note it's inner CV joint so I cannot freely rotate the axis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
1) I am now officially psychic, right? :D
2) to do repairs/replacing the boot (which I highly recommend) - you will have to remove axle from the car.
3) I don't really understand - you will not replace that poor boot, but will try to fix it?!
28323AG010 Genuine Subaru Boot PTJ82 - you still save a lot of money ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1) I am now officially psychic, right? :D
2) to do repairs/replacing the boot (which I highly recommend) - you will have to remove axle from the car.
3) I don't really understand - you will not replace that poor boot, but will try to fix it?!
28323AG010 Genuine Subaru Boot PTJ82 - you still save a lot of money ;)
In lucky case, if the crack is small, it's no more than patching a tire: Patching CV Boot

I didn't think of this method before Youtube taught me. Actually still doubt it now.

But I want to give it a try.

Parts is on the way. I'll update back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Complete axles are 50 bucks from Rock auto. You can change one in about an hour. Not even worth your time researching how to patch a rubber boot that is about to disintegrate completely. If you like afterwards, you can take your time cleaning and rebooting your original with factory boots in your workshop with a vise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
I don't have bad experience with parts from Rock auto, but I would be kinda careful with quality standarts for such complex part with such low price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't fan to replace the factory axle, because:
1. The aftermarket one won't be better, unless i had solid proof the original had been broken;
2. Big effort and risk to just take out the axle, many skills need to be learned, at least to me.

So the best solution for my case (small crack, rookie skill) is to patch, like patching an inner bike tube - using simple gasket maker sealant and silicone tape.

Parts still on the way : ( But I can wait. I'm an engineer. I know how to gradually achieve the goal : )
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top