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Is anyone using Full Synthetic Motor Oil in there B9. I was at my dealer for an oil changed. And asked them about Full Synthetic Motor Oil they said it was no good to us it in my B9. Is true or they just saying that so I'll have quckier engine wear.
 

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Synthetic oil is "better" than regular oil. Its main advantage is that the synthetic oil doesn't break down as quickly as real oil so potentially you can go longer between oil changes.

That being said, it doesn't do anything additional for the engine and is not required. Therefore, decide for yourself if paying double for your oil is worth it or not.
 

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To do a full Synthetic oil swap you would need to swap both "oil" and to synthetic specific filters. The oil would not need to be changed near as often (20,000 +/- miles per swap) but filters need to be swapped in between (4,000 +/- miles?) oil changes. I haven't swapped over, but do consider it with the Minnesota winters and an unheated garage.

The price is about a wash between 1 full fillup of synthetic oil and 5 filters, and for 5 full oil and filter changes. My big hangup is changing the filter without losing a bunch of oil in the process. I can swap filters only so fast, and I would assume it would be gushing the whole time. If the filters didn't need to be changed as regularly as an simple oil change cycle (3-5,000 miles) I'd be all over it.
 

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McGurk said:
To do a full Synthetic oil swap you would need to swap both "oil" and to synthetic specific filters. The oil would not need to be changed near as often (20,000 +/- miles per swap) but filters need to be swapped in between (4,000 +/- miles?) oil changes. I haven't swapped over, but do consider it with the Minnesota winters and an unheated garage.

The price is about a wash between 1 full fillup of synthetic oil and 5 filters, and for 5 full oil and filter changes. My big hangup is changing the filter without losing a bunch of oil in the process. I can swap filters only so fast, and I would assume it would be gushing the whole time. If the filters didn't need to be changed as regularly as an simple oil change cycle (3-5,000 miles) I'd be all over it.
Changed over to the synthetic Amsoil 5w-30 at 15,000 miles. Planning on about 7500 miles between oil/filter changes. At the 30,000 mile check will switch over the differentials and transmission to Amsoil products (my son is a dealer). Our other Subaru ('98 OBW 5 spd) has "used" Amsoil for about 10 years.
 

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Thanks for chiming in MNSteve. Question for you: Do you need to change the "oil" and the filter every 7,500 miles, or just the filter? I was under the impression, from Amsoil none the less, that you can get significantly more miles out of the oil as long as the filter is swapped at regular intervals. Now that you threw a few numbers around, I seem to remember that you could get roughly 4 filter changes at 7500 mile intervals before changing out the "oil" at the 30,000 mile mark. Do you or your son have any input? Thanks in advance.
 

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McGurk said:
Thanks for chiming in MNSteve. Question for you: Do you need to change the "oil" and the filter every 7,500 miles, or just the filter? I was under the impression, from Amsoil none the less, that you can get significantly more miles out of the oil as long as the filter is swapped at regular intervals. Now that you threw a few numbers around, I seem to remember that you could get roughly 4 filter changes at 7500 mile intervals before changing out the "oil" at the 30,000 mile mark. Do you or your son have any input? Thanks in advance.
I only change the oil maybe several times a year around 7500 miles. On the '98 OBW I use the hi-tech Amsoil oil filter. So when I change the oil, I change the filter. On the average the OBW uses over a quart during that mileage period. The OBW is our towed vehicle behind the motor home (also has Amsoil oil/ATF) and isn't accumulating very many miles since we got the Tribeca.

When I've used up the Subaru oil filters on the Tribeca, I plan on using the Amsoil filter. It will take us about 6 months to accumulate 7500 miles on the Tribeca. So the oil will get changed in the fall and spring.

If one wants to push the oil changing mileage to 30,000 miles you should have the oil examined half way through. My feeling is that the vehicle will use a quart of oil about every 5,000 miles. So by 30,000 miles you have added fresh oil and should only have to replace the filter every 5-7500 miles. And every time you replace the filter, you have to add about 1/2 a quart anyway.

did all the above verbage help at all??:)

MNSteve
 

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Thanks, Steve, I think I'll look into it as there are a couple of Amsoil Dealers around.
 

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Dino oil changed every 3K would be the better route. I'm not a big fan of synthetics myself, Id prefer to see someone change the oil every 3K, keep fresh oil in it & get the eyes under the hood for potential problems. I've seen vehicles go to synthetics tend to burn/leak oil. Honestly guys oil related engine failures are few & far between these days (running the thing out of oil is not what I'm talking about here). You're more likely to have cooling,elect, computer, basically any other system problems long before you have an oil related engine failure. Keep the money in your pocket & stick w/the OEM designated weight of Dino oil. If you sleep better knowing you spend 65.00+ per oil change then "as you were".
 

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I use full synthetic Mobile 1 5W-30 Extended Performance
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Extended_Performance_5W-30.aspx since a couple of years back, works just fine.

I change oil and filter (also Mobile 1) myself once a year. (I only do about 10K miles per year with the B9.)

According to my info there are NO disadvantages with full synth oil, just advantages e.g.. better cold starts, less engine wear, less frequent need of oil change etc
 

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PS
I don't think it is a good idea trying to change filter without draining the car for oil first. It would be very messy...lol

If somebody wants to change filter but not the oil (seems cheap to me), then I suggest collect the oil after removing the drain plug and then simply reuse the oil, if the quality is good enough.
 

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Peace said:
PS
I don't think it is a good idea trying to change filter without draining the car for oil first. It would be very messy...lol

If somebody wants to change filter but not the oil (seems cheap to me), then I suggest collect the oil after removing the drain plug and then simply reuse the oil, if the quality is good enough.
Since the filter is located above the oil sump, it can be easily removed/replaced without losing any more oil than what's contained in the filter itself...not messy at all.
 

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highwayman said:
Dino oil changed every 3K would be the better route. I'm not a big fan of synthetics myself, Id prefer to see someone change the oil every 3K, keep fresh oil in it & get the eyes under the hood for potential problems. I've seen vehicles go to synthetics tend to burn/leak oil. Honestly guys oil related engine failures are few & far between these days (running the thing out of oil is not what I'm talking about here). You're more likely to have cooling,elect, computer, basically any other system problems long before you have an oil related engine failure. Keep the money in your pocket & stick w/the OEM designated weight of Dino oil. If you sleep better knowing you spend 65.00+ per oil change then "as you were".
Petroleum oil works for most applications, and they're getting better all the time. However, it's common knowledge throughout the automotive world that synthetics are superior to petroleum lubricants. A high quality synthetic oil will reduce the frequency of oil changes; they perform better in hot and cold temperatures; they resist chemical breakdown longer and keep engines cleaner; they reduce emissions; they help engines run cooler; they increase fuel economy; they reduce wear; etc, etc. Synthetics will not cause an engine that is in sound mechanical condition to burn or to leak oil.

I've been using synthetic lubricants exclusively in my cars since the mid-70's and serve as a supplier to hundreds, if not thousands of very satisfied users. Again, petroluem oil will work, but synthetic oils provide many distinct advantages, especially when used over the long term.
 

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I'm about to do my first change on the 09 at 15k (bought with 12k on it). going mobil1 with a mobil1 filter.

Any opinions on how long I should run it before the next change? We're about to do a 2k mile run Chicago to San Diego, towing a small uhaul trailer.

--sigmead
 

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Change after your "short" run. You'll be putting lots of miles on quickly (wear), towing (wear), and crossing mountains (wear).

Also, you'll still be flushing out some schmutz left in the engine from the manufacturing process.
 

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It's tough to do a short change on that stuff when you need 6 quarts at almost $8 per quart! But the advice is honest, and probably right. After that initial haul and swap, I'd think you could extend out your changes to maybe 5,000 to 7,500 per, but good luck finding a reference from Mobil1 stating such (sell more synthoil with more changes at fewer miles).
 

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You have to do what you are comfortable with concerning oil change intervals, but Mobil recommends their M-1 be changed in accordance with the OEM's recommendations...
 

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I've used Mobil 1 oil and filters for years in numerous cars, changing the oil/filter very 5k miles. Never had an engine problem.
 

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Talkinghorse said:
You have to do what you are comfortable with concerning oil change intervals, but Mobil recommends their M-1 be changed in accordance with the OEM's recommendations...
QUESTION IS: Will the POWER TRAIN warranty be affected if you do change at 5,000 miles with synthetic?

Subaru recommends every 3,750, weird number. Why not 4,000, or like every other car maker 5,000 miles?

If you stick to 3,750, stick to dyno oil. On my other vehicle when I change every 5,000 miles with mobil 1, it comes out golden brown and not very dirty.
 

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highwayman said:
Dino oil changed every 3K would be the better route. I'm not a big fan of synthetics myself, Id prefer to see someone change the oil every 3K, keep fresh oil in it & get the eyes under the hood for potential problems. I've seen vehicles go to synthetics tend to burn/leak oil. Honestly guys oil related engine failures are few & far between these days (running the thing out of oil is not what I'm talking about here). You're more likely to have cooling,elect, computer, basically any other system problems long before you have an oil related engine failure. Keep the money in your pocket & stick w/the OEM designated weight of Dino oil. If you sleep better knowing you spend 65.00+ per oil change then "as you were".
GOOD COMMON SENSE, AND TRUE!
 
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