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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Our 2006 Tribeca with 204k miles blew the headgasket. We bought what looks like a 2009 EZ30 JDM engine for $1100 cash "guaranteed to have less than 50k miles"

So far so good, engine is out, learned a few lessons, like how to remove fuel connector without tools, and that the special tool that goes inside the starter hole before removal is pretty important (keeps the torque converter in the transmission - i thought it was simply to keep it from spinning for some stupid reason, found out why you put it in there the hard way. I don't think we damaged the seal.

The transmission does seem to be a little "twisted" to one side, does anyone know if its possible to twist it too much or if something broke I should look for?

The main question I have and part I'm stuck at right now is the old engine came out with the dowel pins in the engine, but the "new"JDM engine has only one on one side, and is missing the other, it must have stayed with the transmission it was mounted to earlier. Its a very cheap part, but no dealer has it in stock so wed was the soonest they said they could get me one, anyone ever successfully take one out without messing it up? I'm thinking torching the aluminum from around the steel pin if I have to, since we'll probably scrap/junk the old motor anyway.

Also the air conditioner seems to have changed and has different looking ends on the compressor hoses, So I'll probably have to swap air conditioner compressors, or if I buy newer air conditioning cables will they still work on an older tribeca's firewall connectors?
 

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For the AC use everything that was already in your car, it's not worth the headache unless you need a new compressor.

It should be fairly easy to force the dowel out with a punch and mini sledge, soaking with penetrating oil is recommended but the dowels are just pressed in IIRC. However, if the H6 is like the H4 the two lower studs should align everything well enough not to need an additional dowel, but if you can put one in might as well.
 

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I had to replace the engine on our '06 when I got it, turned out #2 rod bearing cap was laying in the oil pan and was the main reason for the massive misfire and other internal carnage. I have done many other Subaru engine installs and removals, my 98 outback had the engine out probably 6 times, the last time was the install of the engine I rebuilt for it. I have seen the dowel pins come out most of the times, sometimes staying in the transmission, sometimes coming with the engine. Pb blaster is your friend. Soak it really well, then vice grips and a doubled rag around the pin always worked. Tap the vice grips with a hammer to break the corrosion bond and you can work them out. There is usually a little mark left from the vice grips, but you can smooth it out by grinding off the high points and tapping it back into the holes. Use some antiseize on them too. These have so many bolts connecting them that the dowel pins are not as necessary, the older sunnies had 2 bolts at the top, 2 pins and the 2 studs at the bottom, that's it!

The a/c compressor should be able to be left connected and charged, rotate it to where the battery is and put the power steering pump where the air filter box is, leave the hoses hooked up.

I have never had to use the tool for the torque converter. Rotate the engine to remove the bolts through the flex plate and then push the torque converter back into the transmission, then just make sure the studs on the engine do not get caught under the torque converter as you bring the engine out. If you twisted the transmission a lot, check your rear transmission mount, mine was completely separated and had pulled the torque mount bracket off the firewall from transmission movement.
 

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if you are not 100% certain that torque converter seal is still good then replace it, its only a 12 dollar part, or have all atf leak out and pull tranny to do it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Got new engine in, everything buttoned up and topped off and ready to start, seeing an ER HC on odometer, and no signal to starter :(

Can't get scan tool to connect, Going to unconnect and reconnect the connectors and check for damage there. This is seems to be a different era H6 to my 2006 tribeca they are both the ones with the plastic intake manifolds, but the new one has two grounds on the wiring harness at the block and the old one had one. Anyone know if the wiring harnesses may be incompatible, or what direction I may need to look to troubleshoot the high speed CAN system?

thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Turned out to just need to re-connect main wiring harness connector, and ER HC was gone. Car starts, runs fine, got the cooling system burped and no endless bubbling.

I am now getting ER BB for brake booster on odometer, and intermittent "bank too lean" errors, so now I have to hunt down a vacuum/intake leak I'm thinking. The break booster vacuum hose went to the drivers side of the manifold on the old engine, but that side was plugged on the JDM and it had a nipple on the passenger side (opposite side driving issue), and since we couldn't break those plugs loose without feeling like we were going to break the plastic manifold, we put in a longer hose to route it to the other side of the manifold, other than that, its all the same hoses and connectors as before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Soak it really well, then vice grips and a doubled rag around the pin always worked. Tap the vice grips with a hammer to break the corrosion bond and you can work them out. There is usually a little mark left from the vice grips, but you can smooth it out by grinding off the high points and tapping it back into the holes. Use some antiseize on them too.
Pretty much exactly what we ended up doing. :tup:
 

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I got the ER BB error code when removing and replacing engine. There is a sensor at the top of the firewall above the brake booster. It's tucked away under the sill - a small vacuum pipe connects to this (from brake booster) and this can get pulled very easily. It then sucks in air and the disconnected sensor reports an error. This is easily missed and may explain your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep that damn tube, came off the bracket side first then fell loose off the firewall side today. . its a little short, going to look into clamping it or getting a longer vacuum hose. Other than that, no errors, no codes, runs great!
 

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I have a 2013 Subaru Tribeca wondering what engines I can use that are compatible to replace the one in mine that blew after running out of oil mysteriously.
Please update your signature or profile to reflect vehicle year.
 
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