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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi friendly people!

I have what I would call a fluttering noise.

Details:

It only happens under load, driving, not when revving at idle.
Usually more pronounced accelerating from low speed, accelerating out of a corner for example.
Definitely a flutter-whine (if that makes sense), and doesn't sound like a 'rattle' to me

Unsure:
Higher speeds maybe does it slightly but hard to tell, might be drowned out by engine noise at higher speeds though.
Little hard to tell but I think it very very slightly interrupts power uptake (don't quote me on that)

I've changed serpentine belt, idler and tensioner pulleys. Could it be the actual whole serpentine belt tensioner assembly itself? Do these go bad?

Worried it might be the timing chain/timing chain tensioners. Please god no.

Thanks so much. Have a feeling it wont be cheap either way LOL

EDIT: i think my above statement is correct. I decided to drive in manual mode to see if it was possibly the transmission and it didn't do it at all on a 15km trip. Does this make it sound like torque converter or possibly a solenoid?
 

· V6er Version 2
Facelift (EZ36D, 5EAT TG5D), MY2008, 7seat Limited (no DVD, no NAVI)
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alternator bearings.
a/c compressor bearings.
if it is more like whine - check powersteering pump.

if it is transmission - a lot of stuff can be going on there. I would go with center diff as an issue (as typical failure after long time using the car).

if you want to do it yourself - I suggest to try to replicate it on the lift... or may be this method might be helpful -
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
alternator bearings.
a/c compressor bearings.
if it is more like whine - check powersteering pump.

if it is transmission - a lot of stuff can be going on there. I would go with center diff as an issue (as typical failure after long time using the car).

if you want to do it yourself - I suggest to try to replicate it on the lift... or may be this method might be helpful -
Why would the symptoms go away driving in manual mode if it was the centre diff? It has to be something that doesn't happen when it's in manual mode, shift solenoid or similar wouldn't it?
 

· V6er Version 2
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ummm... and in manual mode - no shifting is happening, hence - no need for solenoids? :D
on a more serious note - I recently read that torque converter can make whine type of noises... but it still doesn't explain why it disappears in manual mode. of course - you didn't provide any details on your driving speeds, rpms, above or above stall speed (locking solenoid...)...

and dead serious - automatic transmissions are still pretty unclear to me. so - especially over the internet - just speculations :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll take it for a run tomorrow and take particular notice. Also thinking about it, in manual mode, it doesn't change up automatically obviously but if it thinks it's time to change down it does so, so there is some shifting down happening automatically. Having said that, it never happens slowing down only accelerating. Would be nice for a transmission expert to pop on the thread. I'm pretty sure with these details someone who really knows how it operates and what solenoids operate changing up but not down etc would have a good idea

ummm... and in manual mode - no shifting is happening, hence - no need for solenoids? :D
on a more serious note - I recently read that torque converter can make whine type of noises... but it still doesn't explain why it disappears in manual mode. of course - you didn't provide any details on your driving speeds, rpms, above or above stall speed (locking solenoid...)...

and dead serious - automatic transmissions are still pretty unclear to me. so - especially over the internet - just speculations :D
 

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what I ment with shifting and solenoids - there is NOTHING in transmission that doesn't operate by solenoids. NOTHING.
manual mode - which comes to my mind - it will allow you to reach higher rpm, before you shift. so... what changes? atf pressure, because of higher rpm?

I am still gathering information and reading - I have issues with "kicking"while upshifting 1-2 and 2-3 between 1500-2500rpm (which is kinda stall speed). if shifting while going faster than 40mph - no kicking... :D

talking about experts - you know what is "funny"? not a single Tribeca FSM has information about which solenoids "work" at which situation.
yet (I think it is Legacy manual from 2008) - it has all the nice diagrams... go figure.

either way - I think I am going to get set of used solenoids and replace those.
p.s. efffing transmission shops - NOT A SINGLE ONE(whom I contacted) has test bench for solenoids :D there is some truth that - it is simpler to pay 1000+ for new valve body from subaru and install it... but it makes me feel like a cash cow :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There must be something that 'forces' the changing up that's causing an issue, maybe. As for the pressures I drove around and I change up at different revs, still couldn't get it to do it, however ONCE I thought i heard the noise SLIGHTLY but not totally sure. But it's absolutely 99% better in manual mode. Wish I could work out why. There MUST be something different happening in manual mode, just have to find someone with the expertise maybe.

Do your trans shops sell the solenoids as a set? Here in Australia I can't find anything, just a few eBay seller (mostly Chinese which is a worry) selling them, from as low as US$86 set. 😳.
 

· V6er Version 2
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1) manual aka sportsmode has higher “line pressure”… ;))) so - your transmission already needs, at least, “learning control” or new solenoids. Or may be it’s that one solenoid(ffff… line pressure solenoid)…
2) solenoids are pain in the ass. Your options:
2.1) buy whole valve body with solenoids from Subaru - roughly 1000+ usd + “learning control”
2.2) clean them(if resistances are good) + “learning control”
2.3) replace those four solenoids with brand new from toyota - those will cost anywhere between 400 (ebay from arab emirates) and 950usd(local toyota dealership) + “learning control”
2.4) get used solenoids from anywhere, fingers crossed, and “learning control”.

those damn prefacelifts(Tg5C) have figured out all solenoids from kia/hyundai…

p.s. Ordered vxdiag thingie - I should be able to do learning control by myself(fingers crossed)… let’s hope everything goes as planned!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Confused. Been driving in normal mode today and its done it very very minimally. Wonder if it is a pressure thing, even if the filter is a bit blocked, whether manual mode pushing it harder has improved flow, who bloody knows. I'm waiting on a 8mm hex bit for the drain plug so I'll do a drain and fill (or 2), change the spin filter and see if there is any improvement.
 

· V6er Version 2
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Mine was 10. May be somebody has efffed up something there… that’s why you can’t undo it…?

why trying to avoid “learning control”? First thing to do when transmission is kicking plus FSM recommends it when replacing fluid…
And my personal observation: a lot of people said “you don’t need it, it’s bs… just drive couple hundred km’s”… well… I drove around 300miles and nothing improved. After “learning control” - I was happy :)))
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mine was 10. May be somebody has efffed up something there… that’s why you can’t undo it…?

why trying to avoid “learning control”? First thing to do when transmission is kicking plus FSM recommends it when replacing fluid…
And my personal observation: a lot of people said “you don’t need it, it’s bs… just drive couple hundred km’s”… well… I drove around 300miles and nothing improved. After “learning control” - I was happy :)))
I thought the front diff was 10 and the trans is 8, my trans is anyway

I'm not trying to avoid learning, just didn't think it was necessary with drain and fill. But I've got freessm and a vag-com cable on the way (i always laugh at 'vag-com' cable)🤣 so I'll do it anyway. Is that relearning when all 4 wheels need to be off the ground? If so I'll need 2 more axle stands too
 

· V6er Version 2
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FSM says that front diff drain plug is T70 torx. (though it might have been T50 in my case - or T50 was the rear diff?).
Transmission itself - I think mine was 10mm hex.

about learning - while FSM states:
When the following work is performed, perform
learning for the transmission.
Replacement of TCM/Replacement or disassembly
of transmission assembly/Replacement of control
valve body/Performing “Clear Memories 2” is exe-
cuted.

I think it SHOULD be done first when you have "kicking" issues.


freessm can perform Clear memory 2, not the learning itself.
There is the difference between TG5C (prefacelift) and TG5D(facelift, 3.6 engine) - TG5C adaptations can be done by yourself on parking lot. TG5D - you need to lift your car off the ground and initiate learning by SSM (or other software). there are people who say that "nah, in few hundred km it will be fine on its own". I drove 300miles, no joy. Went to dealership and got it done... result was really awesome!

right now - today or tomorrow - I should recieve VXDIAG (which seems to be SSM clone). so - then I will be able to tell - is there cheap alternative to SSM :D
 

· V6er Version 2
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FreeSSM can erase memory in transmission (it's adaptations), but, as I have explained many times:
x) TG5C can do adaptations on parking lot doing specific "drive cycle" (procedure is described in FSM)
x) TG5D (eff... sorry - thank you, Subaru.....) - needs to be lifted in the air and needs SSM to initiate the adaptations(learning control)... there are rumours that some aftermarket software can do that - but I am not going to buy some 3k usd Autels to check it. I bought VX diag (looks like it is SSM clone) :D
p.s. installling vx........ :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Be interesting to see how you go with VX Diag. I see the software is downloadable, does it work on a PC with the vag-com cable or do you need the vxdiag 'gizmo' they sell?

Be great if we could relearn easily ourselves
 

· V6er Version 2
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VXdiag is SSM hacked to work with their adapter.
vag-com(which i have) is not going to work - because (if I understand correctly) - SSM requires J2534 standard compliant adapter. which would be Openport (which I will also test later) - which also costs about 200usd.

hypotethically - Free Download Subaru Select Monitor SSM4 26.6 Torrent | OBDII365.com Official Blog - it says that it works.
some people have hinted that it works, but nobody with whom I have spoken - was able to run it....
so... I guess - I will be the judge and jury :D

so - if everything works and if vxdiag is j2523 compliant - then it means vxdiag can be used instead of openport cable.... I guess soon I will have enough material for many essays :D
 

· V6er Version 2
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aaand... today drove a bit my poor Tribeca...
in sports/manual mode - kicking is less pronounced... and then I rechecked again the manual (which is for 5eat, I just can't make it out really - is it TG5C or TG5D):
Font Parallel Rectangle Pattern Number

and here we can see slight differences with solenoids - not just pressure is higher - Low coast brake is enabled with sports mode...
 
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