RRR.....not looking forward to this at all! Going to do it this way. Just finished doing this on my FXT and on the passenger side as well. At least there is some support for doing it on this model as there was none on my early FXT.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bf8uRTjfxsk
The video takes less than 1/2 hour, but I needed almost 6 hours. (Including short periods of cussing, considerable clean-up of splattered grease from the blown boot, brake pad replacement on both sides, and several beers). :lol:
His method avoids draining diff fluid, and my concurrent brake job also avoided opening the brake line. The only fluid replacement was CV axle grease (I used Redline CV2, filling up the joint only about half way. I think the mixture with soggy old gray stuff will be harmless, though I might be wrong about that. I imagine that I'll hear or feel trouble if the mixture was a bad idea, before anything catastrophic occurs.)
I also used after-market "clip into one of the holes" boot clamps, instead of keeping the originals. On the passenger side, the narrow clamp had become loose over time, allowing a small amount grease to leak out around the axle. I didn't replace that boot, which looked good - I only replaced the clamp. My "loose ends, clip into a hole" type avoided any need to take the passenger side joint apart. Note to self: after a few hundred miles, check all clamps and re-tighten if they've stretched enough to reach into the next hole.
Because I was doing brake pads on both sides, I took the tires off - and that gives you a better view anyway. Before starting, alignment was good. So, I carefully noted the upper strut tower bolt position (a bit past the 4th mark). That's the bolt with the bevel/flange in it, adjusting camber. I also marked both nut positions with a dental scratch tool.
Work was otherwise uneventful, although I needed to tap the 3-cylinder CV joint with a screwdriver and hammer to get it off of the axle, and also to get it back on (screwdriver down next to the axle shaft, NOT up on one of the 3 cylinders). I also used quite a few paper towels to clean up the mess of grease from the cracked CV.
My axle assembly parts (model year 2007) were identical to the parts on the Outback he worked on. The test drive seemed really nice.
I don't want to lose my fresh gear fluid. Needed to use a bearing separator to get the inside apart. I also packed with Redline CV2 on the FXT and have enough left over.
If anyone is doing this with OEM clamps, don't let the dealer sell you their variety of clamp...make sure it's an OEM. My oetiker tool only worked on the OEM clamp forcing me to take an additional 2 hours to rebend my stocker!