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Discussion Starter #1
So I did a drain and fill, replaced the thermostat after testing it. I wasn't getting heat on the passanger side.
And no heat at idle. Still happening. I just couldn't get the air out of the system. I kept burping it. The funnel just kept getting more filled until it over flowed. I opened up the bleeder valve near the firewall but still couldn't get the air out and it kept backing up. While I was draining the coolant I noticed some gold flakes. I don't know if this is some kind of stop hole bull crap or if it's from the subaru conditioner someone put in. Any guess if that is a result of the conditioner? I'm thinking the heater core may have some blockage.
Could this be a bad water pump? Any ideas would be great. I took out the thermostat and checked it again. It flushed out alot of coolant from it where it didn't the first time. Now the car is over heating a bit but it may be because of lack of coolant. I will add coolant tomorrow morning and see how it runs.
On a side note. Changed out all 4 corners of bushings and stabalizer links with Moog and the tribeca is riding smooth again. They were bears to removee. They had to be torched off. This fixed the thumping up front and on the back.
 

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So I did a drain and fill, replaced the thermostat after testing it. I wasn't getting heat on the passanger side.
And no heat at idle. Still happening. I just couldn't get the air out of the system. I kept burping it. The funnel just kept getting more filled until it over flowed. I opened up the bleeder valve near the firewall but still couldn't get the air out and it kept backing up. While I was draining the coolant I noticed some gold flakes. I don't know if this is some kind of stop hole bull crap or if it's from the subaru conditioner someone put in. Any guess if that is a result of the conditioner? I'm thinking the heater core may have some blockage.
Could this be a bad water pump? Any ideas would be great. I took out the thermostat and checked it again. It flushed out alot of coolant from it where it didn't the first time. Now the car is over heating a bit but it may be because of lack of coolant. I will add coolant tomorrow morning and see how it runs.
On a side note. Changed out all 4 corners of bushings and stabalizer links with Moog and the tribeca is riding smooth again. They were bears to removee. They had to be torched off. This fixed the thumping up front and on the back.
I don't think SCC would cause this. I'd *speculate* that you'd be able to get the air out of the system even with a blockage because the capacity is still finite.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think SCC would cause this. I'd *speculate* that you'd be able to get the air out of the system even with a blockage because the capacity is still finite.
Ok Then someone [ut some kind of blockage in the system. The coolant just keeps filling the funnel up with coolant.. When I turn off the car the coolant goes back into the radiator or hose.
 

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heater core is clogged.

from your description of the funnel filling up - it simply sounds like the system is full and you're trying to add too much coolant.

nose up, fill, check a few times over a length of time, keep topping off.
drive with no overheating at all - let cool - top off again.
 

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Ok Then someone [ut some kind of blockage in the system. The coolant just keeps filling the funnel up with coolant.. When I turn off the car the coolant goes back into the radiator or hose.
Like I said, the capacity is still finite whether blocked or not. The cooling system is just effectively "smaller" now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would like to try and flush the core with water. What size hose would you think fits over the intake and outtake. I'll buy some clear hose and flush it out and see if I get some water to come out clear.
 

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Probably 3/4" if you are flushing it you don't need much pressure, or it could burst the heater core, and then you will be in for all kinds of fun...for the record I doubt its your problem.

Subaru coolant conditioner is a milky color, what you are describing sounds like a headgasket band-aid. Have you checked the compression?
 

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Mine was brownish, almost rust like too...definitely no gold flakes in it though.
 

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However this turns out for you, be sure to add the SCC to your coolant when you are done even if you have bad feelings about the other additives that might have been put in your cooling system. It is my understanding that it is mandatory after a coolant change.
 

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That depends on what coolant you use, the new blue coolant doesn't require any additives. And really the conditioner wasn't necessary, according to subaru, after the MLS gaskets were used on engines.
 

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That depends on what coolant you use, the new blue coolant doesn't require any additives. And really the conditioner wasn't necessary, according to subaru, after the MLS gaskets were used on engines.
I think he might be using the blue actually. When did the MLS gaskets start?
 

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Coolant conditioner is called out for the H6 up until 2008, when they switched to blue. If your coolant is green, subaru recommends you use the conditioner.

You don't HAVE to, and I understand many are reluctant for various reasons, but subaru does recommend it with all H6 engines that have green coolant.
 

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Coolant conditioner is called out for the H6 up until 2008, when they switched to blue. If your coolant is blue, subaru recommends you use the conditioner.

You don't HAVE to, and I understand many are reluctant for various reasons, but subaru does recommend it with all H6 engines that have green coolant.
If I read your post correctly, it seems that it is suggested/recommended to use it with either green or blue?

For example, I elect to use Peak Global Lifetime (OAT) with 2 bottles of Subaru Conditioner because I likely have a bad head gasket (even though it supposedly does nothing for internal leaks it's worth a *native* type of try).
 

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If I read your post correctly, it seems that it is suggested/recommended to use it with either green or blue?

For example, I elect to use Peak Global Lifetime (OAT) with 2 bottles of Subaru Conditioner because I likely have a bad head gasket (even though it supposedly does nothing for internal leaks it's worth a *native* type of try).
Sorry, I misspoke. If you have GREEN, it is suggested that you use it. Blue does NOT need it.

Regarding headgasket, it's too late for it to help.

TOm
 

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Sorry, I misspoke. If you have GREEN, it is suggested that you use it. Blue does NOT need it.

Regarding headgasket, it's too late for it to help.

TOm
That's alright, thanks for clarifying. Yeah, I think he is using the blue right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It was the most obvious thing that I should have changed out since it was a cheap solution . It seems the radiator cap wasn't sealing properly. I'm just glad I chased this issue on other forums cause the idea of the rad cap kept coming up. Thanks for all your help here as well. I was ready to swap unnecessary parts like a new radiator, water pump, relays. I did need to change the thermostat so I'm glad that is fixedd as well.
If anyone else is having the same issue as me try this one. It was a 9 dollar part that finally helped. I am going to do a full flush again since I was just putting in non OEM coolant, and distilled water for the past couple days.
I will def add the additive to it. Thanks again for all your help.
By the way this also solved the no heat on passanger side issue. Knocking on wood, but so far today no fluctuations in the gauge.
 
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