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CALLING ALL B9 TECHS: custom driveshaft and rear axles

2K views 48 replies 4 participants last post by  Flat6er 
#1 ·
So I have a project being built from a 2006 B9 Tribeca

Tad @ DSS has agreed to make me a one piece aluminum 3"OD drive shaft and high torque rear axles

The vehicle is being prepared to be shipped to my location but I want to get these made so timing is same.

I need the measured distance on the OEM driveshaft from tcase seal to the base of the flange on the R160.
I also need the spline count on the hub side for the rear axles.

Thank you in advance for your time and consideration in this assistance :)

Cheers,
~Wolf
 
#4 · (Edited)
-I am building an off road rig, engine, trans, driveline, suspension = 100% built.
-I will be the first in history to complete Black Bear Pass with a full sized 3row seater Subaru SUV. This is the number one rated most dangerous trail in the entire state of Colorado.
-I have been and will continue posing all of my progress on the two Facebook pages.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Possibly...

Currently I just deleted the rear bumper, trimmed the rear end down to only the bumper beam support tubes, deleted the spare wheel, rubber coated the underside and applied textured bed liner to the exposed fascia and bumper beam. Installed new rad, t-stat, all tubes and relocated the power steering cooler and oil coolers up into the now active SE grills - as I cut them out to allow airflow. I even adapted the emblem plate on the center grill to now hold a '22 Wilderness' fender emblem.
 

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#10 · (Edited)
so - you are going to make those offroad bumpers?

p.s. nice description of planned road on wikipedia - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Bear_Road :D
Yes, The front is getting a simple prerunner/baja style single tube that will support the OEM bumper facia/skin (that I cut down) to give it a backer to enable it to stay taught at high way speeds. As right now it's just a floppy piece of plastic without the OEM bumper beam and impact foam. This new single tube will have two perpendicular supports running down that will provide a structure to then add a wicked thick skid plate at an advantageous approach angle to then be able to drag the front end over rocks and not bash our B9's crazy low rad or exhaust manifolds, as well as protect the lower oil pan. I deleted the air resonator and the washer fluid to keep both corners able to be shoved into tight spots or to be able to use my bumper to push front end into the corner tire. I didn't remove my entire front bumper in favor of keeping some aerodynamics to save fuel, as some of my trips take a good 6-8 hours to get to the trail head. Without at least the 2/3rds of the bumper remaining then I would just get wicked bad MPG. Even so, I am sitting at 19" of clearance from bumper to ground without any other modifications other than the cut bumper fascia/skin. The rear bumper fascia/skin will remain in the trash as the OEM bumper beam will stay on my chassis for some time as it's incredibly high. Right now the lowest point is the OEM 1 1/4" tow package. I added a Monster Hook solid billet receiver which is good to 6,000lbs and adapts my rear to now utilize a 10,000lb rated shackle with a 7/8" pin hole and a mount width of 1-1/4".

 
#12 ·
Is this post for spite or are you just taking a piss? Haha! Yes, we all know that the 1 1/4" hitch receiver is rated to tow 3500lbs. Why not overbuild what I can - for the intended recovery useage - while utilizing our OEM chassis? I am not going to rather cut out the rear chassis bumper beam support tubes and build a reinforced rear end just to enable the use of a 2" hitch receiver only increase my tow rating by 1000lbs... This is all preventative measures to give me the means to be able to be self reliant while off pitch. Furthermore, my yank method is kinetic so the force is reduced by three times the tow. My 3/4" thick by 20' length rope stretches to 60' long when getting a yank out of a stuck situation. A lot has gone into my build and you had bettah believe that the research has been over thought to the point to which when we do then develop a particular facet it's wicked over-kill to make sure their is zero points of failure. I will be posting plenty of pictures in the next 15 days. Stay tuned. Cheers buddy 🖖
 
#13 ·
unfortunately, my English sucks at your first sentence, but I believe you meant - was I serious? had my doubts about my question - thanks for explaining :)))

talking about high torque axles - while browsing parts suppliers - my eye caught this listing - Screenshot - have you had any experience with that manufacturer? are they really "severe duty"?
 
#14 ·
unfortunately, my English sucks at your first sentence, but I believe you meant - was I serious? had my doubts about my question - thanks for explaining :)))

talking about high torque axles - while browsing parts suppliers - my eye caught this listing - Screenshot - have you had any experience with that manufacturer? are they really "severe duty"?
No worries buddy, just wanted to clarify those facts for ya...
Yes, DSS built my custom 2 3/4"OD carbon fiber driveshaft for MY05 Outback 3.0R.
They are absolutely the best in the industry - hands down - no one is better at what they do.
If you define "severe duty" to be equal to the force exerted at 850AWHP then yes LOL.
Please keep in mind, to get custom 1 of 1 parts to be made just for you is not cheap!
This is both the CV and the axles that are built to suit, as well as the 3"OD solid aluminum driveshaft.

Cheers,
~Wolf
 
#16 ·
While yes, 850awhp is very easily obtained from an EZ30R, and has been for well over a decade - to the point that it's no special feat... MY 06 BENI6N project will rather have CVs and axles built able to handle such a benchmark of power.

I am only building my heads and leaving the case alone.

I have GT6 cams, dual valve springs, +1 intake and +1 exhaust valves, Ti seats/retainers/clips, and a wicked proper hand port and polish - but not just some EJ guy doing what he does for low CR turbo builds - instead made to spec for Z30 head casings, not J30 or the 3.6R.

I want the CV's and axles to be able to withstand 850awhp because our 3.0 exerts low end tq - with a billet auto locker R160 and a 3"OD solid aluminum driveshaft feeding it... I will shear apart OEM axles like paper when getting rowdy with the challenge of 62 pounds of mass to rotate per each corner (wheel/tire).
 
#18 · (Edited)
QUOTE="Flat6er, post: 39317, member: 8120"]
what are gt6 cams?
any more details on that specific porting? and differences from others? :)
SOLID aluminium driveshaft? you mean all crossection of tube is solid aluminium?!
[/QUOTE]
Automotive tire Black Automotive design Motor vehicle Rim

Mouth Automotive tire Jaw Gesture Automotive wheel system

-GT6 cams are the largest profile cams found in a production EZ30R engine.
-The porting is made to suit an EZ30R's heads specifically for the purpose of keeping it NA.
-The difference is not just hogging out lots of material for more flow with forced induction.
-Yes, one piece of 3" outside diameter solid aluminum driveshaft.
 
#19 ·
1) about one piece (solid) driveshaft - I might be wrong, but I think I remember that hollow pieces are able to withstand twisting torque better than solid ones. Something to do with surface tension.
2) what is your plan/goal for engines output? if I understood correctly earlier posts - you spoke about low rpm torque, but large cams seem to go other way (higher rpm, higher power).
2.1) why not go forced induction - for example raptors superchargers seem to be pretty popular.
 
#20 · (Edited)
1) It's not solid - as in - filled. It's a solid one piece 3"OD tube rated for 650WHP and 155 MPH.
2) The only way our AVLS engines make hp/tq is to address the tiny valves and to increase air/exhaust flow. I should be knocking at the door of the 300awhp benchmark on pump 91.
3) Forced induction takes higher rpm's to achieve any gains. Raptor is a centrifugal and still reacts "like" a turbo.

The drive shaft is approximately 1/2 the weight of the factory 2-piece driveshaft for a significant increase in rotational mass. The JDM GT6 camshafts are actually derived from a production phase2 EZ30 engine and while they are the biggest Subaru ever produced - they're not THAT aggressive when compared to having custom cams milled from billet blocks. Unfortunately, since our camshafts are hollow they cannot be ground to add performance. To find a set of GT6 camshafts you have to split cases and measure. This took nine months and hundreds of engines to find. There are no indicating markings on the case to know they are inside. Staying naturally aspirated is the only way to retain low end torque. Retaining AVLS means that we have two lobes for every bucket on our camshafts and having a more aggressive profile helps both sides of the fence of these lobes. Smaller turbos don't kick in until mid level RPM's and while I love Raptor's SC - it's not a roots style, but rather centrifugal, so it's basically a belt driven turbo which still requires mid level RPM's to kick in properly. With GT6 cams I can take advantage of AVLS to which I keep decent fuel economy in low RPM range and enjoy and increase in hp/tq when the revs increase. Since my valvetrain is enhanced I will be able to increase air intake volume as well as be able to increase exhaust flow exiting volume. The valve pockets and overall hand porting job will compliment the valve size increase and aid the cams to be even more efficient. Basically put this is a have your cake and eat it too scenario. With forced induction scenarios there is always a compromise to achieve gains. I am greedy and want it ALL :) with no downfalls!
 
#21 ·
1) oh, ok :D and lovely that it is half it's OEM weight...
2) will you be bringing it to dyno or do some logging to see what power you have at the end? :)
2.1) is there like writeups about those GT6 cams? I can't seem to be able to find anything...
3) that's why my plan is to look at audi s4 b8 first. they have v6 engine with root style supercharger :D (but that ain't happening this year, most probably).

what are your plans about suspension?
 
#22 · (Edited)
Yes, I will be dyno tuning via opensource ECU @ TheBoostCreep in Longmont, CO
Yes, there were some write ups on the GT6 camshafts, however that was seventeen - almost eighteen years go haha.
Good luck, there have already been many builds utilizing the Eaton SC and some tried from the Audi's.
I bought OEM length struts from KYB, in their EXCEL G model.
I work for Subaru so I was able to source brand new top hats and brand new springs.
While my DSS custom CV/axles are being fabricated I bought four brand new OEM CV/axles from Subaru.
The lift is from Subie lift OZ - milled from solid blocks of billet 2" front and 2.5" rear.
R160 one bolt billet auto locker rear differential from TorqLocker.
I have all poly bushings redone from Whiteline.
Motor mounts custom made by Kein.
 
#23 · (Edited)
what is "opensource ECU" - RomRaiders definitions?
all bushings from Whiteline?
did you get some rear diff braces from Kein too? I am considering them now, but because of the war... not sure...
this last week got myself a lot of their(Whiteline) stuff... I hate their american website - it lacks info on Tribecas :D
for transmission - are you going to lower stall speed in torque converter?
 
#24 ·
More or less, yes, opensource means to tune the stock ECU (mine is a JDM spec.B ECU not an USDM).

I didn't get rear diff braces from Kein, only motor mounts.
I am wanting a flex-able chassis for articulation, so only firming up what is needed for now...
I even deleted both the front and rear sway bar systems haha!

Whiteline usually only supports live platforms and/or chassis' viable for sales.
All I did was use SB9T to cross reference other model's bushings and called Whiteline to run thru my list.

I am not going to buy anything more for my 5EAT (other than the TransGo shift kit for the valvebody).
Once I start to put her through the paces - based on usage I will add more bit to tailor to my driving style.
The TransGo's shift kit is actually quite the kit and does wonders to liven-up our 5EAT...
Features:
  • Short, firm shifts for performance and durability
Corrects/Prevents/Reduces:
  • TCC release
  • Chugs/kills engine when in gear at a stop
  • Increased line pressure
  • Redesign clutch regulator valves that allow all shifting clutches to achieve line pressure instead of reduced regulating pressure
Also Includes:
  • Drop-in redesigned clutch regulating valves
 
#25 · (Edited)
1) any functional meaning comes from that "JDM spec B" or just "to be cool with homies"? :D

2) differential mounting has no connection to suspension. it's just some of their braces seem to be similar to what we have, but not really clear (and yeah - small market for tribecas) is it going to fit or not.

3) where are you located? I would like to measure those swaybars to find - is there some aftermarket matching our swaybars or not...

4) well... some bushings are on their australian website, rear upper control arm "missing" bushing I ordered from them as well, but, say, rear lower frontal diagonal control arm - without measuring - not sure from which it would fit...

5) about 5eat - I understand that you have tg5c, others might not and they might misinterpret your info - transgo shift kit is just for tg5c (prefacelift - older than MY2006-2007).
but yes - subaru did make a granny transmission from 5eat :(

6) and question about that torque locker - have you used it before? how is it in "daily commute"? are there issues like when you drive welded diff?

p.s. have you considered swapping front and rear diff ratios - to, say, 4.44?
 
#26 · (Edited)
1) any functional meaning comes from that "JDM spec B" or just "to be cool with homies"? :D

2) differential mounting has no connection to suspension. it's just some of their braces seem to be similar to what we have, but not really clear (and yeah - small market for tribecas) is it going to fit or not.

3) where are you located? I would like to measure those swaybars to find - is there some aftermarket matching our swaybars or not...

4) well... some bushings are on their australian website, rear upper control arm "missing" bushing I ordered from them as well, but, say, rear lower frontal diagonal control arm - without measuring - not sure from which it would fit...

5) about 5eat - I understand that you have tg5c, others might not and they might misinterpret your info - transgo shift kit is just for tg5c (prefacelift - older than MY2006-2007).
but yes - subaru did make a granny transmission from 5eat :(

p.s. have you considered swapping front and rear diff ratios - to, say, 4.44?
Please don't take this the wrong way, but do you do any research before replying to me? I only ask that query because a lot, or even all, of this information I am telling you is out there to be had... how do you think I got it haha. Our cars have been on the road for 16 years now, there has been countless builds since 2006 performed on our chassis or our engine or our transmission. Most of which is from this site that I was able to gather to compile into my parts list for my build. It just seems like no one else on this site cares because only you are responding to this thread LOL

If you would like a professional consultation for your build then feel free to PM me.

1) Yes, Spec.B is a model of Subaru and one that uses the highest end bits as OEM for the BL/BP chassis.

2) Tightening up the diff from being able to naturally flex will have a dramatic effect on how the car handles.

3) I am located in Colorado. The FSB in the Tribeca is the thickest ever built, no aftermarket company has made one bigger because of this fact. Most Legacy sedans and Outback wagons utilize the Tribeca's FSB as an upgrade rather than going aftermarket. I actually have one installed in MY05 3.0R LLBean Outback wagon.

4) Remember the old adage of: "measure twice cut once." You will find what you are looking for if you know what size not what model code.

5) The Transgo kit for Subaru's 5EAT's will fit: Outback 2.5XT / 3.0R 05-07, Legacy GT 05-07, B9 Tribeca 06-07. This is because the 08-09 models have SI Drive and rev matching enabled downshifts.

P.S. You cannot just "swap" to a 4.44GR - the front/center/rear diffs have to match FD. There is not a set up available to enable me to do so with a Tribeca 5EAT. We are a 3.58FD which is signature to these oddball one bolt R160 open diff Tribecas. Now if I wanted to swap to a manual gearbox... THEN the sky's the limit. You can add dual range hi/lo, can do a 20k center diff, change to LSD's either mechanical or clutch pack, straight cut or helical cut, then you can change the 1-6th gears to custom cut gears. I have done all of the above swapped (except hi/lo range) into my 3.0R racecar.
 
#27 ·
well.
x) research. I couldn't find anything on GT6 you say it was all over the place... then I just suck at searching :D
x) Tribecas had two very different engines and two quite different transmissions. according to my research (look previous remark on my searching abilities) - options for TG5D in states are crap. I found guy in Russia, who makes even stages for both 5EATs. I have his 0.5+ stage in my Tribeca - very happy, despite one issue surfacing, but that might be half dead solenoids.
but, as I said - I might not be the best searcher, so - I might get annoying, but I try to squeeze everything from you :D
x) about "noone cares" - there were couple of people who were after performance in their Tribecas... so... I am kinda trying "keep the fire burning" :)))

2) I don't think that transmission parts ability to move in their mounts are good. It just robs you of performance from engines. in theory - it might add some additional articulation at maximum endpoints of suspension movements. is it worth it?

3) from what I have gathered over the years - first swaybar to address would be rear(but if I have it on my hands - I would measure it too). To stiffen up front... hm... I can't even think of good reason... superstiff suspension and participating on even surface time attack? everything else will not enjoy additional understeer.

5) yep, as I said - it fits TG5C(prefacelift). not TG5D(facelift). SI drive doesn't really matter - because there are hardware differences between those two transmissions. and - as far as I know - SI drive is throttle responsiveness to gas pedal maps (three, in ECU), not hardware or TCU differences.

6) harware wise - if you swap front and rear diff in 5eat - everything is peachy.. there is no other FD ;)
more interesting question is - what about errors P0731..P0736 about incorrect gear ratios...reading FSM about them - this kinda raises eyebrows... calibration must be done, most probably. Would be great if RomRaider people would find a way, because some russian guys have found their ways to do something with transmission - but what exactly - is unknown to me.

Anyway - I enjoy talking to you and really appreciate your answers. if it bothers you too much - just let me know :)
 
#28 · (Edited)
well.
x) research. I couldn't find anything on GT6 you say it was all over the place... then I just suck at searching :D
x) Tribecas had two very different engines and two quite different transmissions. according to my research (look previous remark on my searching abilities) - options for TG5D in states are crap. I found guy in Russia, who makes even stages for both 5EATs. I have his 0.5+ stage in my Tribeca - very happy, despite one issue surfacing, but that might be half dead solenoids.
but, as I said - I might not be the best searcher, so - I might get annoying, but I try to squeeze everything from you :D
x) about "noone cares" - there were couple of people who were after performance in their Tribecas... so... I am kinda trying "keep the fire burning" :)))

2) I don't think that transmission parts ability to move in their mounts are good. It just robs you of performance from engines. in theory - it might add some additional articulation at maximum endpoints of suspension movements. is it worth it?

3) from what I have gathered over the years - first swaybar to address would be rear(but if I have it on my hands - I would measure it too). To stiffen up front... hm... I can't even think of good reason... superstiff suspension and participating on even surface time attack? everything else will not enjoy additional understeer.

5) yep, as I said - it fits TG5C(prefacelift). not TG5D(facelift). SI drive doesn't really matter - because there are hardware differences between those two transmissions. and - as far as I know - SI drive is throttle responsiveness to gas pedal maps (three, in ECU), not hardware or TCU differences.

6) harware wise - if you swap front and rear diff in 5eat - everything is peachy.. there is no other FD ;)
more interesting question is - what about errors P0731..P0736 about incorrect gear ratios...reading FSM about them - this kinda raises eyebrows... calibration must be done, most probably. Would be great if RomRaider people would find a way, because some russian guys have found their ways to do something with transmission - but what exactly - is unknown to me.

Anyway - I enjoy talking to you and really appreciate your answers. if it bothers you too much - just let me know :)
No worries, but yes, you are a bad researcher haha. The "GT6 cam set up" is basically a Z30 head casing's exhaust cam and a U30 head casing's intake cam used together to achieve 10mm lift on both sides. This is a widely known mod and has been used for well over 10+ years for spec class racing where you cannot change internals beyond OEM. Over a decade of racing for Factory Five Racing 818 race cars that are stuck with staying inside their class constraints.

There are a lot more than just one FD for the 5EAT's. The diffs do need to match with the center which is 3.58FD. This is why there is no LSD option for the front differential. To use the 08-09 Si dive equipped TG5D in a 3.0R will be a challenge because of the simple fact that we are CANBUS chassis and will bugger up a lot of communication based off that encrypted and coded system.

Why would you want this transmission?
What would your point be to retune the three modes of the Si drive?
Again why would you need this ability?

Ed @ XRT makes e-tunes for the 5EAT and has since Subaru started putting them into our vehicles. There are a plethora of tuners that specialize in correcting all of the common downfalls of the 5EAT. However, those will need the car present at their shop to be ran on their dyno.

Sway bars are for side to side - and not straight driving. I deleted them because there is no point to heavily modifying a chassis for off-road use and keeping your coilovers linked together which will limit side to side articulation. Unless you are carving canyons, or pulling G's into corners, you would have a hard time noticing the void of F&R sways.

More notably: what are you trying to accomplish with your build and what is your budget?
I ask only because everything that I am currently doing is for only one very specific purpose.
Mentioning this fact, is to drive home my point that what I am doing is not for everyone else.
 
#33 ·
@BENI6N

about FD - actually - 3.583 is REAR and FRONT diffs. (FSM -> Automatic transmission -> General description (for front), FSM -> Chassis ->Differential ->General description (for rear)).
center( aka transfer?) is 1:1 (same location as for front - overall general description).
and there is no need to match center. front needs to match rear - that's it (except software side - error codes I mentioned).

why I am interested in TG5D? well... if you look at my profile description on left side of posts - I have facelift tribeca. 3.6, TG5D.
and for last time - TRIBECAS DON'T HAVE SI DRIVE. it was used in a lot of others subaru models(I think even Foresters had it), but not in Tribeca.

XRT and others - I haven't seen much explanation WHAT and WHY they are doing. and because I have trust issues with concept "I will just make it better" - I want to know, what is he doing first.
Like B@tman explained his stages for transmission - you can get shorter gear switching times, but it will come with a cost of comfort (gear engagement will be pretty sharp(like impact)). While I like performance upgrades, car is more everyday care (not dedicated tracktool or something like that :))

About my car - probably then separate topic needs to be written - I will think about it.

About your car - understood :)
 
#34 · (Edited)
Lots of caps...

I can read. I know you have a facelift.

*What I had figured you were asking if this trans could work installed to our chassis.

If you are interested in a performance based build, then I would suggest purchasing the holy grail of 5EAT's aka the IPT 5EAT.

IPT Performance brings you the industry's finest high performance transmissions. Our state of the art package of modifications produce the strongest and most reliable gearbox available anywhere.

At IPT we address the inherent weaknesses and engineering flaws that are present in all factory designed transmissions through the utilization of various metallurgical treatments, valve body and pump modifications/porting, the utilization of upgraded friction material and the increase in capacity of transmission multi-disk clutch packs and bands.

The end result is a transmission that provides you with worry free operation under the additional stress that is associated with any high performance application.

Now that is a MONSTAH of a 5EAT!

What are your intentions of adding power/torque to increase your EZ3.6 engine's performance? Will you retain AVLS and AVCS? Easy gains to be had when plumbing in a simple turbo assembly.
 
#35 ·
when I was researching - I didn't read a single positive review on IPTs job, but - now you fueled my interest - will do that again :D (I hope it won't end up like suspension right now - buying second hand parts, doing what I want to do and then just swapping the part (and trying to find where to store this mirriade of stuff, which probably is just junk :DDD

my plan is roots type supercharger(similar to audi s4 b8 - may be even from it). yes, leave avcs in place (no avls on 3.6). no, no turbo (lot of exhaust work, which until I have full control of transmission does not seem to be good idea, anyways).
 
#36 · (Edited)
I usually file those negative reviews into the old adage of the simple fact that if one person has a bad experience they tell 100 people and if they have a good experience they tell only 10. I have a buddy with over 50k on his 100% IPT built trans and he loves it. If you don't want to spend the $4500 for their tcase, their enhanced rebuild kits, modified valve body, and high stall TC are each around $850usd and worth every penny.

What suspensions are you fitting together?
How much drop are you trying to achieve?
How do you plan to adapt the geometry when lowering this chassis?

Correct, I deal with 3.0R's so we have both AVCS and AVLS, where the 3.6R has dual AVCS.
Why leave it if you want to make more power?
Outfront Motorsports and Kelford both make a turbo-grind cam set up that deletes AVCS.
You can have a dependable 300-350awhp for $3000usd when you turbo a 3.6R
I have lots of friends around the world whom have been running for years as such.
 
#37 ·
yeah, those with good experience might be even silent ones :D

I already have modified valve body. About toughening transmission up... good thing, but I have to educate myself more to be ready for doing that.

high stall tc - only use for it I see is high spool turbo car. (ok, may be, just turbo cars).
all other applications... "but why???" (C)
I will try to find something with stall speed around 1500-1700rpm (when/if I get into transmission).

suspension - basically - stock height (will play with a little lift in front - I liked that on my first car). Flatout suspension coilovers + Whiteline stuff all around.
geometry wise - I am not really touching it - except more caster in front, some camber in front and rear, toe = 0 (front and rear).
if I don't loose interest - diy EDFC(hello Tein :)) for Flatout coilovers :D

Deleting AVCS - what's the point of losing ability to adjust engines VE?
say, if we compare stock tune and Bamofo tune on 3.6 - maximum air mass was 10% more with Bamofo tune. (ok, I haven't dug deep enough yet into ECU stuff, just... here and there).
 
#38 ·
yeah, those with good experience might be even silent ones :D

I already have modified valve body. About toughening transmission up... good thing, but I have to educate myself more to be ready for doing that.

high stall tc - only use for it I see is high spool turbo car. (ok, may be, just turbo cars).
all other applications... "but why???" (C)
I will try to find something with stall speed around 1500-1700rpm (when/if I get into transmission).

suspension - basically - stock height (will play with a little lift in front - I liked that on my first car). Flatout suspension coilovers + Whiteline stuff all around.
geometry wise - I am not really touching it - except more caster in front, some camber in front and rear, toe = 0 (front and rear).
if I don't loose interest - diy EDFC(hello Tein :)) for Flatout coilovers :D

Deleting AVCS - what's the point of losing ability to adjust engines VE?
say, if we compare stock tune and Bamofo tune on 3.6 - maximum air mass was 10% more with Bamofo tune. (ok, I haven't dug deep enough yet into ECU stuff, just... here and there).
What kit did you use for your valve body modification? Did you get one early from the OG himself: HexMod? A higher stall torque converter will let your car accelerate better because the car will be taking off at the rpm range where it is making the most power.

Flatout suspension systems are great! No need to address geometry if not changing it by staying at OEM height. However, why not go with a non-adjustable set up if you are only wanting to stay at OEM height? You can still buy OEM springs and top hats through SOA and paired with KYB's is a great ride for the money. If you wanted a stiffer springs set - you can reach out to King Springs and they will make you custom springs based off corner balances or load capacity, or your own desired spring rates.

If you plan to make big power that is where deleting AVCS comes into play.
If you want to make more conservative power then retain it to have lower RPM drive-ability.
Keeping in mind that Subaru flat6's AVLS/AVCS was derived for economical use not power.
Luckily we have an intelligent ECU that can tune the degree on cams using AVLS/AVCS.
 
#40 ·
about modified valve body - I wrote a bit here - Tuning 5EAT
it is from Russia - B@tman. For 5EAT he has like stage 1, 2, 3. (For Tribeca he suggests stage 0.5 - for me it was a bit enhanced, so - 0.5+ :DDDD ) Guy has reputation - has tuned (I believe) all variations on 4EAT, both generations on 5EAT (also has done 5EAT "relatives" on Infiniti) - may be something else which I am not aware of.

HexMod worked only on TG5C (as far as I have read). I really like his posts.

Stall in torque convertors - I consider myself more like "time attack/sprint" guy, not really drag practitioner :))) (though as a testing procedure - pretty good). So - I value more responsiveness.

Suspension tuning - since I am not your average "soccer mom" in Tribeca, I want it to behave more "sportiish" - so, some adjustability might be useful. for nonadjustable setup - I would have went with Bilstein B6 (if those were available, even stinking nissan rogues have B4, B6, B8... but not tribeca)... Anyway, I will make cad drawings of struts and at some point of boredness will try to find something matching from other cars :D Now - I have ability to "grab" custom spring rates and 20click adjustability (rebound) on shocks. According to Flatout Suspension - it is possible to rebuild them on your own or you can send struts to them to rebuild with different valving.

Deleting AVCS does not give any power. it just shows that "deleter" has either low intellectual abilities, or VERY specific requirements(which, to be honest, I can't really think of). It is technological step "backwards". A long time ago - when guys tuned engines - when they couldn't get camshafts with "sportier" profiles - they made vernier pulleys, to rotate camshaft relative to crank thus moving peak up or down (as they wanted/needed).
Novadays - AVCS allows to do that by punching in numbers in maps and there is no need to get your hands dirty, do wrenching for 4hours to get to the point where you can test your setup...

About SUBARUs intentions -EZ30D(or how some prefer to call it EZ30R) - power per liter is ~81.(6)hp/liter. EZ36D - it is just 71.(6)... Other N/A Subaru engines - FB25 (way more modern than H6) is 72.8hp/liter. EJ25 even less...FA20D (brz engine < 2017) is 98.5hp/liter, 2017+ it is 102.5 hp/liter.
So - at least 3.0 liter engine in Tribeca is a tiny bit sportier than all the rest, but still not as sporty as BRZ engine :D
There are rumours that EZ30D was developed together with Porsche people (though - I haven't read it in any reputable source...may be again - bad researcher :D ).

About COBB - you mean their kit for Tribeca in 2006? 2006 Cobb Tuning Subaru Tribeca - Performance Tuner Road Test - Motor Trend - it is technologically the same as Raptor-s (centrifugal type). but I like their shortened intake pipe (probably Subaru-style hood with opening above filter would be helpful too :D
unfortunately - not much technical details :(
 
#41 · (Edited)
about modified valve body - I wrote a bit here - Tuning 5EAT
it is from Russia - B@tman. For 5EAT he has like stage 1, 2, 3. (For Tribeca he suggests stage 0.5 - for me it was a bit enhanced, so - 0.5+ :DDDD ) Guy has reputation - has tuned (I believe) all variations on 4EAT, both generations on 5EAT (also has done 5EAT "relatives" on Infiniti) - may be something else which I am not aware of.

HexMod worked only on TG5C (as far as I have read). I really like his posts.

Stall in torque convertors - I consider myself more like "time attack/sprint" guy, not really drag practitioner :))) (though as a testing procedure - pretty good). So - I value more responsiveness.

Suspension tuning - since I am not your average "soccer mom" in Tribeca, I want it to behave more "sportiish" - so, some adjustability might be useful. for nonadjustable setup - I would have went with Bilstein B6 (if those were available, even stinking nissan rogues have B4, B6, B8... but not tribeca)... Anyway, I will make cad drawings of struts and at some point of boredness will try to find something matching from other cars :D Now - I have ability to "grab" custom spring rates and 20click adjustability (rebound) on shocks. According to Flatout Suspension - it is possible to rebuild them on your own or you can send struts to them to rebuild with different valving.

Deleting AVCS does not give any power. it just shows that "deleter" has either low intellectual abilities, or VERY specific requirements(which, to be honest, I can't really think of). It is technological step "backwards". A long time ago - when guys tuned engines - when they couldn't get camshafts with "sportier" profiles - they made vernier pulleys, to rotate camshaft relative to crank thus moving peak up or down (as they wanted/needed).
Novadays - AVCS allows to do that by punching in numbers in maps and there is no need to get your hands dirty, do wrenching for 4hours to get to the point where you can test your setup...

About SUBARUs intentions -EZ30D(or how some prefer to call it EZ30R) - power per liter is ~81.(6)hp/liter. EZ36D - it is just 71.(6)... Other N/A Subaru engines - FB25 (way more modern than H6) is 72.8hp/liter. EJ25 even less...FA20D (brz engine < 2017) is 98.5hp/liter, 2017+ it is 102.5 hp/liter.
So - at least 3.0 liter engine in Tribeca is a tiny bit sportier than all the rest, but still not as sporty as BRZ engine :D
There are rumours that EZ30D was developed together with Porsche people (though - I haven't read it in any reputable source...may be again - bad researcher :D ).

About COBB - you mean their kit for Tribeca in 2006? 2006 Cobb Tuning Subaru Tribeca - Performance Tuner Road Test - Motor Trend - it is technologically the same as Raptor-s (centrifugal type). but I like their shortened intake pipe (probably Subaru-style hood with opening above filter would be helpful too :D
unfortunately - not much technical details :(
Pardon, but I am not stating that by just deleting AVLS/AVCS this will "give" you power.
Rather, I am stating that by deleting them you can now enhance your cams/valves where you couldn't before.
Our cam shafts are hollow and thus cannot be ground...
So when wanting power from cams on EZ's they must be milled from scratch from solid billet blocks.
Once at this point the cams are massive and the head needs to be milled to allow then to even rotate.
Therefore, AVLS or AVCS cannot retained.
You then have a cam that can be adjusted by cam gears.
You also gain massive lift and duration that AVLS/AVCS cannot ever achieve.
Furthermore, oil pressure doesn't need to be used.
A huge benefit is allowing for incredible strength and needless to say achieve higher RPM ceiling.

Beyond all of that jargon - the valve train is simplified and with that 1) the weight is significantly decreased 2) it's stronger. My engine has both AVLS/AVCS deleted and custom cams/valvetrain to now run up to 9,000RPM safely.
 
#42 ·
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