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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a project being built from a 2006 B9 Tribeca

Tad @ DSS has agreed to make me a one piece aluminum 3"OD drive shaft and high torque rear axles

The vehicle is being prepared to be shipped to my location but I want to get these made so timing is same.

I need the measured distance on the OEM driveshaft from tcase seal to the base of the flange on the R160.
I also need the spline count on the hub side for the rear axles.

Thank you in advance for your time and consideration in this assistance :)

Cheers,
~Wolf
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just in case anyone else was interested:
Attached is a PDF full schematic of the OEM driveshaft
Rear axles for R160 one bolt open diff:
~diff side spline count = 25
~wheel hub side spline count = 27
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
what kind of project?
is there any information out there about it?
-I am building an off road rig, engine, trans, driveline, suspension = 100% built.
-I will be the first in history to complete Black Bear Pass with a full sized 3row seater Subaru SUV. This is the number one rated most dangerous trail in the entire state of Colorado.
-I have been and will continue posing all of my progress on the two Facebook pages.
 

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this sounds interesting :)))
I am definately interested in more information :)
could you share those facebook pages?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
a lot of crap in those groups. Would you consider making a topic here too?
Possibly...

Currently I just deleted the rear bumper, trimmed the rear end down to only the bumper beam support tubes, deleted the spare wheel, rubber coated the underside and applied textured bed liner to the exposed fascia and bumper beam. Installed new rad, t-stat, all tubes and relocated the power steering cooler and oil coolers up into the now active SE grills - as I cut them out to allow airflow. I even adapted the emblem plate on the center grill to now hold a '22 Wilderness' fender emblem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
so - you are going to make those offroad bumpers?

p.s. nice description of planned road on wikipedia - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Bear_Road :D
Yes, The front is getting a simple prerunner/baja style single tube that will support the OEM bumper facia/skin (that I cut down) to give it a backer to enable it to stay taught at high way speeds. As right now it's just a floppy piece of plastic without the OEM bumper beam and impact foam. This new single tube will have two perpendicular supports running down that will provide a structure to then add a wicked thick skid plate at an advantageous approach angle to then be able to drag the front end over rocks and not bash our B9's crazy low rad or exhaust manifolds, as well as protect the lower oil pan. I deleted the air resonator and the washer fluid to keep both corners able to be shoved into tight spots or to be able to use my bumper to push front end into the corner tire. I didn't remove my entire front bumper in favor of keeping some aerodynamics to save fuel, as some of my trips take a good 6-8 hours to get to the trail head. Without at least the 2/3rds of the bumper remaining then I would just get wicked bad MPG. Even so, I am sitting at 19" of clearance from bumper to ground without any other modifications other than the cut bumper fascia/skin. The rear bumper fascia/skin will remain in the trash as the OEM bumper beam will stay on my chassis for some time as it's incredibly high. Right now the lowest point is the OEM 1 1/4" tow package. I added a Monster Hook solid billet receiver which is good to 6,000lbs and adapts my rear to now utilize a 10,000lb rated shackle with a 7/8" pin hole and a mount width of 1-1/4".

 

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any news-updates?
about 10k lbs reciever - whole towing hook system is for up to 3500lbs, I think (or even less), but you think that replacing SOME part in the middle of it - it will become strong enough for 10k? but I am no offroader - I might be wrong :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
any news-updates?
about 10k lbs reciever - whole towing hook system is for up to 3500lbs, I think (or even less), but you think that replacing SOME part in the middle of it - it will become strong enough for 10k? but I am no offroader - I might be wrong :D
Is this post for spite or are you just taking a piss? Haha! Yes, we all know that the 1 1/4" hitch receiver is rated to tow 3500lbs. Why not overbuild what I can - for the intended recovery useage - while utilizing our OEM chassis? I am not going to rather cut out the rear chassis bumper beam support tubes and build a reinforced rear end just to enable the use of a 2" hitch receiver only increase my tow rating by 1000lbs... This is all preventative measures to give me the means to be able to be self reliant while off pitch. Furthermore, my yank method is kinetic so the force is reduced by three times the tow. My 3/4" thick by 20' length rope stretches to 60' long when getting a yank out of a stuck situation. A lot has gone into my build and you had bettah believe that the research has been over thought to the point to which when we do then develop a particular facet it's wicked over-kill to make sure their is zero points of failure. I will be posting plenty of pictures in the next 15 days. Stay tuned. Cheers buddy 🖖
 

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unfortunately, my English sucks at your first sentence, but I believe you meant - was I serious? had my doubts about my question - thanks for explaining :)))

talking about high torque axles - while browsing parts suppliers - my eye caught this listing - Screenshot - have you had any experience with that manufacturer? are they really "severe duty"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
unfortunately, my English sucks at your first sentence, but I believe you meant - was I serious? had my doubts about my question - thanks for explaining :)))

talking about high torque axles - while browsing parts suppliers - my eye caught this listing - Screenshot - have you had any experience with that manufacturer? are they really "severe duty"?
No worries buddy, just wanted to clarify those facts for ya...
Yes, DSS built my custom 2 3/4"OD carbon fiber driveshaft for MY05 Outback 3.0R.
They are absolutely the best in the industry - hands down - no one is better at what they do.
If you define "severe duty" to be equal to the force exerted at 850AWHP then yes LOL.
Please keep in mind, to get custom 1 of 1 parts to be made just for you is not cheap!
This is both the CV and the axles that are built to suit, as well as the 3"OD solid aluminum driveshaft.

Cheers,
~Wolf
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
850 from that 3.0?
While yes, 850awhp is very easily obtained from an EZ30R, and has been for well over a decade - to the point that it's no special feat... MY 06 BENI6N project will rather have CVs and axles built able to handle such a benchmark of power.

I am only building my heads and leaving the case alone.

I have GT6 cams, dual valve springs, +1 intake and +1 exhaust valves, Ti seats/retainers/clips, and a wicked proper hand port and polish - but not just some EJ guy doing what he does for low CR turbo builds - instead made to spec for Z30 head casings, not J30 or the 3.6R.

I want the CV's and axles to be able to withstand 850awhp because our 3.0 exerts low end tq - with a billet auto locker R160 and a 3"OD solid aluminum driveshaft feeding it... I will shear apart OEM axles like paper when getting rowdy with the challenge of 62 pounds of mass to rotate per each corner (wheel/tire).
 

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what are gt6 cams?
any more details on that specific porting? and differences from others? :)
SOLID aluminium driveshaft? you mean all crossection of tube is solid aluminium?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
QUOTE="Flat6er, post: 39317, member: 8120"]
what are gt6 cams?
any more details on that specific porting? and differences from others? :)
SOLID aluminium driveshaft? you mean all crossection of tube is solid aluminium?!
[/QUOTE]
Automotive tire Black Automotive design Motor vehicle Rim

Mouth Automotive tire Jaw Gesture Automotive wheel system

-GT6 cams are the largest profile cams found in a production EZ30R engine.
-The porting is made to suit an EZ30R's heads specifically for the purpose of keeping it NA.
-The difference is not just hogging out lots of material for more flow with forced induction.
-Yes, one piece of 3" outside diameter solid aluminum driveshaft.
 

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1) about one piece (solid) driveshaft - I might be wrong, but I think I remember that hollow pieces are able to withstand twisting torque better than solid ones. Something to do with surface tension.
2) what is your plan/goal for engines output? if I understood correctly earlier posts - you spoke about low rpm torque, but large cams seem to go other way (higher rpm, higher power).
2.1) why not go forced induction - for example raptors superchargers seem to be pretty popular.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
1) about one piece (solid) driveshaft - I might be wrong, but I think I remember that hollow pieces are able to withstand twisting torque better than solid ones. Something to do with surface tension.
2) what is your plan/goal for engines output? if I understood correctly earlier posts - you spoke about low rpm torque, but large cams seem to go other way (higher rpm, higher power).
2.1) why not go forced induction - for example raptors superchargers seem to be pretty popular.
1) It's not solid - as in - filled. It's a solid one piece 3"OD tube rated for 650WHP and 155 MPH.
2) The only way our AVLS engines make hp/tq is to address the tiny valves and to increase air/exhaust flow. I should be knocking at the door of the 300awhp benchmark on pump 91.
3) Forced induction takes higher rpm's to achieve any gains. Raptor is a centrifugal and still reacts "like" a turbo.

The drive shaft is approximately 1/2 the weight of the factory 2-piece driveshaft for a significant increase in rotational mass. The JDM GT6 camshafts are actually derived from a production phase2 EZ30 engine and while they are the biggest Subaru ever produced - they're not THAT aggressive when compared to having custom cams milled from billet blocks. Unfortunately, since our camshafts are hollow they cannot be ground to add performance. To find a set of GT6 camshafts you have to split cases and measure. This took nine months and hundreds of engines to find. There are no indicating markings on the case to know they are inside. Staying naturally aspirated is the only way to retain low end torque. Retaining AVLS means that we have two lobes for every bucket on our camshafts and having a more aggressive profile helps both sides of the fence of these lobes. Smaller turbos don't kick in until mid level RPM's and while I love Raptor's SC - it's not a roots style, but rather centrifugal, so it's basically a belt driven turbo which still requires mid level RPM's to kick in properly. With GT6 cams I can take advantage of AVLS to which I keep decent fuel economy in low RPM range and enjoy and increase in hp/tq when the revs increase. Since my valvetrain is enhanced I will be able to increase air intake volume as well as be able to increase exhaust flow exiting volume. The valve pockets and overall hand porting job will compliment the valve size increase and aid the cams to be even more efficient. Basically put this is a have your cake and eat it too scenario. With forced induction scenarios there is always a compromise to achieve gains. I am greedy and want it ALL :) with no downfalls!
 
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