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6mm difference in pulley diameter is likely not going to cause an issue. You can always just replace the bearings in your stock pulleys like I and others have done.
 

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If you use 76 mm on the tensioner and 82 mm for the stationary idler, the tensioner will end up essentially in the same position it was in with the original parts (both 80 mm in this case). It's a simple calculation based on wrap-around angles (measured by means of eyeballing). I posted it on the Outback board after having to do this job.
 

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I purchased 2 of the 76 mm pulleys (89007). I'll check your post out a bit more.

Maybe I won't feel so bad about ordering the whole tensioner assembly due to the rattling I am experiencing. Hoping that tensioner pulley on the new tensioner assembly is 82mm.

Might work out after all!

http://www.sb9t.com/forums/33-warranty-tsb-maintenance/3997-serpentine-tensioner-rattling.html

EDIT: The tensioner pulley on the assembly is 80mm. Still, this should get me very close to the 82/76 combo. Others have stated that the 76mm pulley appeared to be just like the 80mm pulley. I'll probably grab the dial calipers and report back.

EDIT 2: The 89007 is just over 76mm in size.

89662 is the tensioner with pulley already on it. The pulley is just under 80mm in size.

http://www.daycoproducts.com/part?c...odel=4333&description=11653&part_number=89662
 

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I went with the Dayco Tensioner (tensioner arm with 80mm pulley) It was a piece of junk. You pull too far and it snaps back violently. I used the 2 76mm pulley along with a new belt and called it a day. Makes getting a belt on not too difficult.
 

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Actually, at least according to the available photos, Dayco 89662 appears to be a genuine OE part, with the factory number and Fuji "swoosh" ground away from the casting. Same goes for other brands re. this particular application. I have an ACDelco just in case, it is the same way. Perhaps the new spring is stronger than the one with 170,000+ miles in service.
 

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Actually, at least according to the available photos, Dayco 89662 appears to be a genuine OE part, with the factory number and Fuji "swoosh" ground away from the casting. Same goes for other brands re. this particular application. I have an ACDelco just in case, it is the same way. Perhaps the new spring is stronger than the one with 170,000+ miles in service.
This one was defective. After using a proper tensioner tool on the 15mm head to get the belt on, it would just spring back violently to it's original position with little notice as I tried to get the belt back on. I can't imagine this would be normal activity. I just used the tensioner arm from the JDM engine (with a new Dayco tensioner pulley) which should have much lower miles. If I find I need the whole arm, I'll try out the ACDelco instead.
 

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Of course I try the job before I read this... I lost my nut down that hole!
Will a steel nut from the home supply store work fine?
 

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Bummer. Good luck, I don't know for sure. You'll have to buy an assortment and see what works. I'm sure you can figure something out.
 

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replaced the dayco pulleys today as a preventative- 5 year follow up

here is some help. Stuff that helped me.

I think I have 100k on the two dayco's. I put 2 new ones on today.they were $21 each at advance auto parts.

I replaced the tensioner and idler today.they were smooth however , maybe getting a bit dry as the tensioner spins freely 8-10 times with a flick.

I am sorta glad I replaced them, as now I should be done for another 100k.


oops : sorry for the photo of my coolant debris...that is for another post..not sure what the brwn crap is
 

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spins freely at 100k

I think I have 100k on the two dayco's. I put 2 new ones on today.they were $21 each at advance auto parts.

I replaced the tensioner and idler today.they were smooth however , maybe getting a bit dry as the tensioner spins freely 8-10 times with a flick.

I am sorta glad I replaced them, as now I should be done for another 100k.


oops : sorry for the photo of my coolant debris...that is for another post..not sure what the brwn crap is
here is the photo i meant to post

PS: DO NOT FORGET TO STUFF A RAG behind the tensioner bolt so you dont displace and lose track of the nut for the tensioner axle
 

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Subaru ought to update their maintenance schedule to call for replacing or at least inspecting the tensioner pulley and idler pulley every 40k mi.

I needed to replace them at less than 40k miles and just replaced them as a preventative measure at 80k miles. The idler pulley bearing was okay but the tensioner pulley bearing was rough.

I keep a spare set of pulleys, a used belt, and a 14mm socket and ratchet in the trunk, just in case.
 

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First, a quick shout out to all the contributors over the years. You made this an easy job.



I have a 2009 Tribeca with 92K miles. I heard some minor noise up front a few days before and then the idler bearing seized about 8 blocks from home. When the bearing seized it loosened the idler pulley bolt allowing pulley to come out of position so steering, a/c, and alternator all fail with appropriate dashboard warnings. Fortunately no parts were spread on the road.


I bought two SKF 6203 2RSJEM bearings and replaced both the idler and the tensioner for about $11 each. The belt at Napa was $25. I dropped the hidden nut behind the tension pulley and had to buy a magnetic part retriever from harbor freight for $4.


Lessons learned:
1) Don't let the hidden bolt get away from you. I used the rag but had it poorly positioned. I got lucky...where it fell I could retrieve it with a magnet.
2) Using the old bearing as a spacer while pressing in the new bearings (with improvised bolt/nut system) is perfect. When done light pressure with a flat head screwdriver pops the old bearing out of the bore.

3) If one bearing fails replace both. The next failing is probably not far behind.
4) When the belt fails the dash "rear differential" warning light comes on. I suspect this is simply a subaru electrical design issue. With belt back on it goes away.
 

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Like clockwork.

Just 46k miles on the idler and tensioner pulleys. The idler pulley started to go again, lots of noise.

The 3rd time at around 40k miles. At least it's predictable. I had a spare set in the trunk and was able to replace it on vacation 1,000 miles from home.
 

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Good work!
 
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