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I have a 2006 B9 Tribeca with 55,000 miles on it. Just last November I replaced the OEM battery with a new Duralast. Then during the winter we had a few days in the teens where the Subie didn't want to start nicely. Since installing new battery I'm still getting corrosion around positive terminal. I've used the 'ol baking soda mixture and wire brush to clean terminal. Its definitely taking longer to start than normal so I'm lead to believe starter is to blame. Also starters that are going out start to draw more current than they need so with that does anyone have any tips, pics, diagrams or suggestions for replacement. AutoZone has $186 + core charge for "new" starter.
 

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Ok so now I've had the starter checked. The starter checked out fine so we checked the battery. I bought a brand new battery in November to replace the OEM from 2006. The battery was faulty according to the service station so I went back to the parts store for warranty. They checked the battery and said it was fine, but went ahead and replaced the battery with a new one.

I now suspect that the issue comes down to the fuel delivery system i.e. the fuel pump. My overall suspicion stems from the fact that the Subie takes much longer to start than it used to. With only 57,000 miles, it should still start like a champ. The shop was going to test the fuel pump pressure for me, but upon further inspection they decided against it since it required more work (they were going to check for free).

In all honesty I am not a mechanic, but more or less good at basic repair. This one has got me stumped. I know the spark plugs were check around 40,000 miles. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
 

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It could very well be the fuel pump.......my buddy had a toyota truck that had the same problem that you have explained, replaced the fuel pump and the problem was solved.........
 

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Cables?

What about the Battery Cables ... you said that one of them was still producing corrosion? Cables can build resistance with age ... right after trying to start your beauty, check to see how hot/warm the cable is (carefully that is).
 

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To answer the original question, I just replaced my starter this weekend.

Let me say this about that: I wouldn't try it without air tools. I did it, but it's not easy. It's kind of tight and there's very little room for a standard ratchet wrench to move. It is POSSIBLE, but it took me an hour and a half whereas if I'd had an air ratchet it would've taken 30 minutes or less. So I don't recommend doing it with a standard socket set. Plus the damned thing is bolted down pretty tight and it is hard to get a good angle to be able to pull the wrench with enough force to break the bolts loose.

Still, I saved ¾ of what the dealer was going to charge ($115 total versus $250 for the starter and probably an hour of labor @ $99/hr plus other fees and taxes). Additionally, both local Subaru dealerships were booked solid for the next 9 days, and a trusted local mechanic was nearly as busy. This way I was able to get the job done and my daughter would have something to drive Monday morning.

As for the procedure, it's pretty simple and here's what's involved:

• Disconnect battery!!! (there's a lot of juice flowing through the "+" wire to the starter)
• Remove plastic engine cover.
• Remove air box that is connected to throttle body.
• Locate the starter, on the back of the engine on the driver's side.
• Remove long bolt that also has the braided copper ground wire attached.
• Disconnect the small plastic connector that connects the ignition wire to the starter.
• Disconnect the "+" cable coming from the battery to the starter.
• Remove the nut holding the starter on (looks like it'd be a bolt like the first one, but it's actually just a nut that screws onto a stud coming out of the block).

• Remove starter.

• Installation is the reverse order.

• Call dealer, tell 'em to eat it, because you just saved $300 doing it yourself.
 

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Replaced the starter this morning.

It began having problems a little while ago -- in cold weather it would not properly disengage and would grind on the flywheel.

I thought the job would be more difficult, but because the starter is located on top of the motor it's really not bad.

I'm not sure how anybody would get air tools in there, when they are generally larger than hand tools. The top starter bolt is cake. The bottom one is quite difficult because there's very little room to swing any kind of wrench or ratchet between the starter, hoses, trans dip stick tube, etc. I tried many types of ratchets, wrenches, and ratchet wrenches, and found it easiest to use a standard length 3/8 ratchet and a standard height 14mm socket. I pushed the hoses up to clear ratchet handle as needed.
 
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If you can repair/rebuild the OEM starter that's ideal. Aftermarket new starters have a considerable failure rate which isn’t welcome to me for an absolutely necessary part.

I doubt a lower mileage/newer OEM starter has a significantly lower failure rate than new aftermarkets.
 

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I replaced the original starter last week with OEM remanufactured Subaru starter from my local dealer. 2007 B9 at 194K miles. Starter had the coil pin stuck couple of times causing it not to crank at all, then misteriously working like nothing happenned. First time it was 2 minutes fiddling with the key and it started fine, second time it took AAA guy hitting it with jack handle just couple of times and it again worked like new.



Since we take the car for long trips and my wife drives it to work headquarters once a week (80+ miles one way), i couldn't take the risk of starter being finicky. Remanufactured OEM starter is ~$200 at the dealer and parts to repair it were ~$60 plus my time and who knows what other parts would require replacement sometime soon.
 

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Anyone have advice on the bottom nut? Unbelievably tight and no room to turn the 3/8 ratchet and 14mm bolt. Not sure if there is any difference between the ez30 and ez36 as far as space and configuration. Frustrating when people post instructions and don't list their year anywhere.
 

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Finally got to the bottom bolt (not nut) on an EZ30 anyways. I had to use a breaker bar at great risk to the surrounding hoses. I would definitely use an air ratchet like the previous poster said.
 

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Now I can't get the starter to budge. Hitting it with an extension bar and and engineering hammer to no avail.
 

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That's because the bottom bolt is not a BOLT it's actually a nut. Even HARDER to get to. Nothing wants to fit on it besides the 14mm socket but there is no room to turn. I can't get an open ended wrench on there reliably and have to keep using a double mirror to see what is going on. Removed the wrong bolt too during this process. I removed the driver's side wheel for better access and there is none to speak of.
 

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I took the starter out as part of changing the transmission (along with half the Tribeca). Now time to put it back...hope it goes smooth. Wish I put it back in earlier in the rebuild process.
 

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I got a large offset wrench from Amazon similar to the one from Harbor Freight. Broke it loose in like 2 seconds. Unfortunately the bolts that I accidentally removed were also removed by someone else in the past who stripped them out. Those hold the trans to the engine. Was able to get one back in. The other the helicoil popped out.

Good enough.
 

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So I removed the starter a while ago as part of dropping the tranny in my long, long, journey to change the torque converter.
I'm in the rebuild phase and I have the starter all bolted in, but I'm not 100% sure where all the grounds and terminals go.



Plus that braided copper ground is in rough shape. Any hints for this tired mind would be appreciated.
 

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Vinegar, wire brush, coca cola for wires. 1 to starter terminal. 2 to top starter bolt. 3 maybe to 2....not sure. I took mine apart differently
 

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Edit: Pics of area. I think 1 goes to top starter bolt looking at pic. I can't edit old post. Not sure about 2 or 3 but one of those likely goes to starter terminal.
 

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