SB9T.com

SB9T.com (https://www.sb9t.com/forums/index.php)
-   Warranty/TSB/Maintenance (https://www.sb9t.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=33)
-   -   Belt Tensioner & Idler Pullies... (https://www.sb9t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1266)

Subaru Scott 10-22-2017 10:37 PM

6mm difference in pulley diameter is likely not going to cause an issue. You can always just replace the bearings in your stock pulleys like I and others have done.

avk 10-23-2017 04:58 AM

If you use 76 mm on the tensioner and 82 mm for the stationary idler, the tensioner will end up essentially in the same position it was in with the original parts (both 80 mm in this case). It's a simple calculation based on wrap-around angles (measured by means of eyeballing). I posted it on the Outback board after having to do this job.

06b9beca 10-23-2017 06:55 AM

I purchased 2 of the 76 mm pulleys (89007). I'll check your post out a bit more.

Maybe I won't feel so bad about ordering the whole tensioner assembly due to the rattling I am experiencing. Hoping that tensioner pulley on the new tensioner assembly is 82mm.

Might work out after all!

https://www.sb9t.com/forums/33-warran...-rattling.html

EDIT: The tensioner pulley on the assembly is 80mm. Still, this should get me very close to the 82/76 combo. Others have stated that the 76mm pulley appeared to be just like the 80mm pulley. I'll probably grab the dial calipers and report back.

EDIT 2: The 89007 is just over 76mm in size.

89662 is the tensioner with pulley already on it. The pulley is just under 80mm in size.

http://www.daycoproducts.com/part?ca...number%3D89662

06b9beca 10-28-2017 02:42 PM

I went with the Dayco Tensioner (tensioner arm with 80mm pulley) It was a piece of junk. You pull too far and it snaps back violently. I used the 2 76mm pulley along with a new belt and called it a day. Makes getting a belt on not too difficult.

avk 10-29-2017 12:44 PM

Actually, at least according to the available photos, Dayco 89662 appears to be a genuine OE part, with the factory number and Fuji "swoosh" ground away from the casting. Same goes for other brands re. this particular application. I have an ACDelco just in case, it is the same way. Perhaps the new spring is stronger than the one with 170,000+ miles in service.

06b9beca 10-29-2017 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avk (Post 31408)
Actually, at least according to the available photos, Dayco 89662 appears to be a genuine OE part, with the factory number and Fuji "swoosh" ground away from the casting. Same goes for other brands re. this particular application. I have an ACDelco just in case, it is the same way. Perhaps the new spring is stronger than the one with 170,000+ miles in service.

This one was defective. After using a proper tensioner tool on the 15mm head to get the belt on, it would just spring back violently to it's original position with little notice as I tried to get the belt back on. I can't imagine this would be normal activity. I just used the tensioner arm from the JDM engine (with a new Dayco tensioner pulley) which should have much lower miles. If I find I need the whole arm, I'll try out the ACDelco instead.

8lug 11-02-2017 07:16 PM

Of course I try the job before I read this... I lost my nut down that hole!
Will a steel nut from the home supply store work fine?

tdelker 11-04-2017 11:11 PM

Bummer. Good luck, I don't know for sure. You'll have to buy an assortment and see what works. I'm sure you can figure something out.

tribecadean 12-30-2017 01:11 PM

replaced the dayco pulleys today as a preventative- 5 year follow up
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by tribecadean (Post 17559)
here is some help. Stuff that helped me.


I think I have 100k on the two dayco's. I put 2 new ones on today.they were $21 each at advance auto parts.

I replaced the tensioner and idler today.they were smooth however , maybe getting a bit dry as the tensioner spins freely 8-10 times with a flick.

I am sorta glad I replaced them, as now I should be done for another 100k.


oops : sorry for the photo of my coolant debris...that is for another post..not sure what the brwn crap is

tribecadean 12-30-2017 01:18 PM

spins freely at 100k
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by tribecadean (Post 31843)
I think I have 100k on the two dayco's. I put 2 new ones on today.they were $21 each at advance auto parts.

I replaced the tensioner and idler today.they were smooth however , maybe getting a bit dry as the tensioner spins freely 8-10 times with a flick.

I am sorta glad I replaced them, as now I should be done for another 100k.


oops : sorry for the photo of my coolant debris...that is for another post..not sure what the brwn crap is

here is the photo i meant to post

PS: DO NOT FORGET TO STUFF A RAG behind the tensioner bolt so you dont displace and lose track of the nut for the tensioner axle

tribeca09 08-04-2019 01:05 PM

Subaru ought to update their maintenance schedule to call for replacing or at least inspecting the tensioner pulley and idler pulley every 40k mi.

I needed to replace them at less than 40k miles and just replaced them as a preventative measure at 80k miles. The idler pulley bearing was okay but the tensioner pulley bearing was rough.

I keep a spare set of pulleys, a used belt, and a 14mm socket and ratchet in the trunk, just in case.

KevinL59 11-07-2019 01:15 PM

First, a quick shout out to all the contributors over the years. You made this an easy job.



I have a 2009 Tribeca with 92K miles. I heard some minor noise up front a few days before and then the idler bearing seized about 8 blocks from home. When the bearing seized it loosened the idler pulley bolt allowing pulley to come out of position so steering, a/c, and alternator all fail with appropriate dashboard warnings. Fortunately no parts were spread on the road.


I bought two SKF 6203 2RSJEM bearings and replaced both the idler and the tensioner for about $11 each. The belt at Napa was $25. I dropped the hidden nut behind the tension pulley and had to buy a magnetic part retriever from harbor freight for $4.


Lessons learned:
1) Don't let the hidden bolt get away from you. I used the rag but had it poorly positioned. I got lucky...where it fell I could retrieve it with a magnet.
2) Using the old bearing as a spacer while pressing in the new bearings (with improvised bolt/nut system) is perfect. When done light pressure with a flat head screwdriver pops the old bearing out of the bore.

3) If one bearing fails replace both. The next failing is probably not far behind.
4) When the belt fails the dash "rear differential" warning light comes on. I suspect this is simply a subaru electrical design issue. With belt back on it goes away.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:58 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Designed & Powered by Domain Architect