Crankshaft "seized" after HG replacement. -

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Old 09-24-2019, 04:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Crankshaft "seized" after HG replacement.


I've done my fair share of googling, and searching the forum, but no luck. Hopefully someone on here can help me un-do this f*ck-up. I'll try my best to keep things to the point while including as much (what i consider to be) relevant info.

I've recently taken on the task of replacing my 07 b9t's HGs using the FSM, and all seemed to have gone well. The only real issue i ran into in this process was during the actual HG & cylinder head re-install. Due to having badly marred the straight/alignment pins i replaced them. In doing so I used the socket/mallet method to drive them in (gently).

This is where my main f-ups start: the pins werent sitting level...think along the lines of Steve Buscemi's eyes -> \_/. Because of this the cylinder head wouldnt lower onto the pins. So, I, like the moron that I am, decided "I'll just gently, and evenly press them in using the head bolts. Well, they went i'd considered it a win.

after that the rest of the assembly went what I'd consider smoothly. up until near the end. I hadn't thought to turn the crankshaft, as I didnt remove the pistons or even disasseble the block. Well time came to spin the crank to make sure the timing marks lined up and man, it was tough. but it moved. However, by the time I finished putting the front timing cover on and reassembled the rest of it, was basically seized. I put about a tsp of oil in the cylinders, and the spark plugs were still out but even with a 24" breaker bar i had to REALLY lean into it to get the crankshaft pulley to move.

I think it took a little over 100ft lbs of tq to get it to rotate.

What I've checked so far:

-Camshafts rotated easily before chain install.
-I dont think i bent valves, as i followed the fsm religiously, and I checked using a boroscope that all valves would open and seat.
-Verified that nothing is blocking the flexplate

I'm about to tear back into it, but I'd hate to have to replace the HGs, along with all the other rear cover o-rings, and misc. bolts only to find out it wasn't necessary...or worse...that my moment of "enginuity" completely f*cked the engine up by distorting the block/cyl walls or heads.

Any help would be immensly appreciated!
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Old 09-28-2019, 11:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 24

Can you start at the beginning, why were you replacing the head gaskets in the first place?

We recently spun the rod bearings on our 3.6L, which (to no one's surprise) made the crankshaft difficult to turn.

How many miles on your Tribeca? Were you having other issues other than whatever made you replace the HG?

Share some more details, I would be happy to bounce ideas, if I have any. Our Tribeca is a 2008, so we have the 3.6L engine. It is different in the timing set up because, if I remember correctly, the 2007 3.0 only has 2 timing chains, right? The 3.6L has three, which sound more complicated but the routing is easier I think. I am still working on our car, trying to track down all of the little issues that replacing the engine has caused.

I see that your post was from 4 days ago, perhaps you have already figure out your issue? If so, share that as well. Sometimes this forum isn't the most active.
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Old 10-13-2019, 05:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If the head gasket is leaking a bit of coolant into the cylinders it will hydrolock and not turn. If you try to use the starter it could bend a rod. Remove the spark plugs and look for liquid to run out.
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