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DIY 120,000 mile service

10K views 42 replies 6 participants last post by  tdelker 
#1 ·
Hello all,

Although I can do things around the house, I have long avoided touching anything on a car. The grand total of my experience can be summed up by replaced batteries, air filters, headlight and fog light bulbs, LOL.

But enough is enough. I have decided that doing the Tribeca's 120,000 mile service is as good a start as any. I have a little time, but the job needs to be done either before May or after Halloween, I am not learning anything when the temp inside my garage is 100-115F, thanks!

So, what is needed? I got the 2008 Tribeca manual; so there is that.

Dodik suggests this tool for the spark plugs:

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...h-dual-flex-head-ratchet-67994.html?hftref=cj

Eagleeye likes this extractor for the fluids:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPF4L7M...9DZ&coliid=I1JV5ATC02P1BY&tag=viglink20854-20

Any recommendation for a torque wrench? The manual uses NM as a main reference though it also provides ft/lb in parenthesis. I would prefer NM since I do not intend to use the wrench on anything other than Subarus.

I have a neighbor with RhinoRamps, which I used for the fog lights. I liked those.

Would a small 2 ton lift with stands be enough to have around for the Beca? I guess so.


Speaking of lifts, the manual describes spark plug replacement from the top while people seem to talk (and I even saw a youtube video) of this being done from underneath. Why?

As for the liquids, is there anything I need to know? I fail to see the advantage of doing the motor oil myself unless I switch to synthetic. But the dealer chargers A LOT for the ATF and for the differentials, too. Brake fluid flush is not cheap either. So, I would rather do those myself. Anything I need to know? I will get all spark plugs and fluids from the dealer, so there should be no issues with the parts and types of fluid used; I plan no penny-wise moves. Should I also go ahead and do the coolant while I am on it? I guess so. Who knows what the previous owner used.
 
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#2 ·
Okay, so looking at the manual it seems like the brake fluid would be best replaced at the dealer given that it requires removing all four wheels.

The coolant, ATF, and differential oil replacements seem straightforward.
 
#3 ·
You will enjoy working on your car as long as you give yourself plenty of time and stop and think when you get in trouble.

The main issue you will run in to is access, cross threading bolts and stripping heads. Often some smart thinking and creativity will help a lot with access. And the knowledge on this about subaruoutback.org. Cross threading can be prevented by starting all bolts by hand and turning them backward to find the starting thread. Especially important for sparkplugs were access is tough. Stripped heads is prevented by making sure you have good tools (6 point sockets!) and taking your time.

That flex ratch is exactly what I have. A must with the short distance between the frame rails and engine in subarus. You'll need a variety of extensions too.

I've never used a fluid extraction tool and don't ever plan on it. You still need to open things up to drain. It's one of those 'fun' tools, but not necessary.

For torque wrench, look on HF and pick one. Most have both NM and ft-lbs. I've got this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-239.html and a small beam one for low torque (sucks, but I can't bring myself to replace it).

I like HF racing jack because I also change tires over ever season. I have this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-15-ton-compact-aluminum-racing-jack-68053-7814.html Excellent price right now. I paid $90

2 tons stands are fine. I've always wanted to invest in another set and should.

Jack at the center mount just behind the engine so you can take both wheels off. Under rear diff for the back end.

I don't like ramps.

More later..
 
#5 ·
I like HF racing jack because I also change tires over ever season. I have this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-pump-15-ton-compact-aluminum-racing-jack-68053-7814.html Excellent price right now. I paid $90
I might buy that tomorrow, while the sale lasts.

Is 14.5" a good enough lift though? My Outback is lifted almost an inch and it starts a bit higher than the Tribeca. It also has decent wheel travel, excellent for a car anyway. Will this jack cope with it?

If not, I may have to postpone the jack purchase. But I would love a compact, light-weight jack. I have little room in the garage and I would also like to be able to take it with me occasionally.
 
#4 ·
It may have been you then that proposed the linked ratchet. It is not on sale now so it can wait. Big discounts at HF today so I got items I may need in the future. Got a 1/2 torque wrench for 9.99, extensions for 9.99, long extensions for 19.99, a set of adapters as the TW is 1/2, a creeper for 19.99, 3 ton jack set for 19.99, and a set of metal ramps as the priciest item at 39.99. Still need spark plug socket as they were out of 5/8 ones. The jack can wait for now as I am not planning on lifting wheels yet but the stands were too good of a deal to pass on.

They have other good discounts but I refrained from spending more than needed:)
 
#7 ·
yeah that ratchet was suggested by others but I use swivel head as well only a stubby one. another trick to spark plugs i learned is to use a short piece of hose to get them started, pretty much any that fits over the spark will do, it acts as a flexible extension.

as i said in my PMs i did my plugs on the old 2002 h6 from the top, if i had a lift then going from the bottom might have been an option but i am 6'4 and have pretty long arms.

also get a bathroom carpet or a small rug from a dollar store that wont scratch the paint and use it to protect the fenders as you lean from the top, our sheet metal is pretty thin an can be dented just by laying on it.
 
#9 ·
For the plug access, I went top and bottom. You already have the bottom cover off to drain the coolant, and it gives you more options. If I remember correctly, I did the entire passenger side from the bottom, and about 1/2 from the top and 1/2 from the bottom on the driver's side. Gotta pull battery and air box, but those are super easy. Put in a nice pair of Osram rallyeye 65W bulbs while you are at it, since the access is clear :)

I don't have a lift, just had it up on jack stands just enough to get the wheels off the ground. Depends on the height of your belly :) Get something under you to lay on or sweep really good. Hate the winter road rocks digging in to me.

I think I watched a youtube of someone doing a tribeca from the bottom. It shows how easy it really is. And the twist trick for getting some of the coil packs out.

While you are under there you will have a good chance to check out for any leaks or other issues. Clean it off and see if it comes back. Valve cover leaks and spark plug tube seals (also part of the valve cover seal) would be the most common.
 
#10 ·
So, the jack is said to lift 14 and 3/4, I tried it on the OB and it maxed out at 14 and 1/4, lifting the OB about 1/16" LOL. Does that count?

Seriously, though, it should be just fine for the Beca. The alternative is an 18" jack at the same price (assuming sale is still on), but it is a "slow" jack. I guess the one I got can be put on something solid, metal or wood, of about an inch to lift the OB, too.

QUESTION: can I drain transmission, coolant, and front differential by simply putting the Beca on the ramps instead of dealing with placing it on four stands in order to lift it all? Will that affect how fluids drain and/or are refilled in a way to make this a bad choice?
 
#12 ·
Ops, I must have had a block on the jack. I use a block of wood or two on the top of the jack.

Yes, I am sure it works for the Beca to get the tires easily off the ground.

I just jack enough to fit myself under the car for oil, transmission, coolant, diffs. Usually the tires are still on the ground (still put stand under the car). But I don't level the car.

Ramps might be a bit tall depending in size, but probably not a real problem for fluid drains.
 
#11 ·
i've done oil changes wit just driving up on to bricks, as far as the drain plug is at the lowest point and you can get underneath with a wrench and a pan you are good to go. although the more room you have the easier will be your filter change.
 
#13 ·
The ramps provide 8.5" of lift.

Since I know nothing yet, what worries me is filling up with AT and differential gear oil under such an angle.

Or, I can try to squeeze in without any lift or follow tdelker's minor jacking practice.
 
#14 ·
For the AT, measure what comes out and put that back in. Check the transmission after full warm up via a drive per the manual, on level ground, car running, putting the transmission through all the gears. Realize that the distance between low and full is about a pint, not a quart like engine oil.

The rear and front diff are fairly forgiving, fill until it some comes out the fill hole. You want to be reasonably level.
 
#15 ·
It is quite easy to access transmission drain plug with wheels on the ground. Same for the drain and fill plugs on rear differential. With the front differential, I drained with front wheels on ramps and filled with wheels on the ground. Nothing will happen to the gears when you drive off the ramps without oil.
 
#16 ·
Okay, so I am almost set. I will get the spark plugs from subarupartsonline as the dealer wants to charge me twice as much!

For the rest, I need two more things. Gear fluid and drain plug gaskets.

I see that there is Subaru LSD gear fluid as well. Should I get that for the rear?
 
#18 ·
Just an FYI - you can change the brake fluid without having to remove the wheels. It's a tight fit, but if you have a small socket driver or 10mm wrench, it can be done. If I recall, the dealer quoted me $170 to change the brake fluid... I did it myself for under $20.

I would not drain anything on ramps, especially if you have any sludge, you want to get a good, level drain/fill, not to mention, it really isn't necessary... you can get to all of the plugs and drain fluids with regular ground clearance provided you have a shallow drain pan. HF has 3ton jackstands on sale regularly for around $20 - GET THEM; if need be, raise the car up a few inches to get in there and loosen the bolts with a breaker bar, lower the car, remove the plugs and then drain.
 
#20 ·
#21 · (Edited)
OK, so I tried yesterday to do something, specifically the AT and differentials.

I found the AT plug totally destroyed. The rear differential ones look very bad, too.

The front differential plug gave me a fight. Had to put it on ramps to take it off. Filled from the ramps. Fluid is now 1-2 mm above the full line, which I figure is just fine. The magnet of the differential was nice and clean. The fluid looked good, too.

The gear oil I used is Valvoline GL-5 75w90 from Autozone for normal and limited slip differentials at 9.99/qt.

Then I proceeded with the coolant instead of the planned AT. Reaching the two air bleeding valves was tricky but no big deal. Had to remove all plastic covers, however: underneath splash guard, engine cover, and the front one over the radiator. I used genuine Subaru coolant from the dealer.

I seem to be done with the coolant, once I add a little more. It dropped from Full to Low in the overflow overnight. I DID NOT buy the COOLANT CONDITIONER.

Should I add it now or is this not a big deal? I can easily get some tomorrow morning and use it to complete the fill-in process.
 
#23 ·
So, I was able to deal with the rear differential as well. It took two trips to Autozone, though. The first to get 55 as the Torx 70 only works on the front, duh. Then the real problem here was filling it in...it took another trip to Autozone, where I bought a small plastic cylinder with a hose, a small liquid transfer pump. Adding about 80 ml at a time via a small diameter hose till I got to more or less 800...took forever!
 
#28 ·
Okay, so differentials and coolant were all completed, conditioner and all. Seems like the car is still running just fine :)

The AT plug being what it is, though, compelled me to cough up for the liquid extractor suggested at the OB forum. Will see how that works when it arrives. If nothing else, it costs exactly as much as the dealer labor for an AT flush...
 
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