Looking for radiator R/R procedure. - SB9T.com
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Looking for radiator R/R procedure.

Hello,

My 2006 Tribeca (160K miles) radiator leaks around the joint between the aluminum core and plastic end. Does anyone happen to have procedure or got-chas for the radiator removal and replacement?

Many thanks!
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Old 09-25-2017, 05:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Here you go.

No real aha moments with this replacement that I can recall. The two upper hoses is unique but not terribly challenging. Make sure if you use the green coolant to add subaru conditioner, if you use blue it isn't needed. Also use this as a chance to replace the cap and thermostat with oem units or high quality aftermarket units.
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Old 09-26-2017, 07:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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^^Nice you got the pdf.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ib9owner View Post
Hello,

My 2006 Tribeca (160K miles) radiator leaks around the joint between the aluminum core and plastic end. Does anyone happen to have procedure or got-chas for the radiator removal and replacement?

Many thanks!
Yea, I hate that. Those plastic end caps leak when old. I replaced the rad on a WRX auto (suffering same issue) with a thick all alu unit. It didn't have the built in tranny cooler so I added a B&M trans cooler. I don't know what core you are going for, but you can add a trans cooler easily especially if you put the tranny thru a lot of abuse. I'd also swap the thermostat, hoses, and get a bleeding kit while you are at it as its a pain to get the trapped air out otherwise. Though they are different cars, its the same basic job and it was actually harder in my case due to having to add a tranny cooler. It took me about 4 hours or half a day. And another 30 minutes to bleed it the next day. And get the subaru conditioner too, its a couple bucks at the dealer.
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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External transmission cooler for Tribeca is (or at least was) available as an OE accessory. Very easy to install. The pipes to connect it are already there. From the factory, they're short-circuited by a U-shaped piece of hose.
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Old 09-27-2017, 03:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The OE radiator will have the foam sections attached.

The biggest pain for me was trying not to break the wiring mounts for the cooling fans.
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thank you very much for all the replies. It took me a full day to do the job, slow and not enough muscles to wrestle with the bottom hose. The rad I bought didn't have the cushion foam, so I am going to have to figure out something. The thing that took the most time was removing and install the bottom hose. I ended up cut the bottom hose, I plan to replace it anyway. The new hose from dealer is 2mm smaller in diameter, and the "bulge" on the rad end is 2mm bigger, this 4mm difference (between old and new) caused quite a bit of pain just to slip it on. Then the old clamp could not slip over this "bulge". I ended up getting a universal (the one with the screw to tighten) clamp.

I didn't have to remove the front bumper. Just use a magnetic screw driver to remove/install the rad-to-cooler bolts by slipping the screw driver through the grill. Also removing the fans unit made it easier to reinstall with the bottom hose attached. If I need to it again (many more years I hope), I would remove the fan units first.

By the way, if the car heated up and maintain temp as normal, am I done with bleeding? I also discovered that my front cv boot cracked up, man don't really want tackle that job, especially laying underneath the car.

Thanks again!
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Old 10-01-2017, 07:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Taking the axle out isn't that bad, I recommend finding a used axle and replacing yours with that one, then putting new boot on yours at your leisure since the other side is probably close to needing a new boot too. You can use the same axles side to side.
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