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Old 08-06-2015, 01:17 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I just finished replacing my tensioning and idler pulleys on my 2006 Tribeca. I used the Dayco #89007 serpentine pulleys from advanced auto parts. The tensioning pulley had seized while we were in the mountains here in Colorado and it was a Sunday so we had the vehicle towed home. There was no indication the pulley was going bad, just a little squeaking at start-up that went away in about 10 seconds. I learned the hard way on this one.

Thank you to all members of the forum who contributed to this thread, with all the useful information. Rag stuffed behind the tensioning assembly, Brilliant! I will press out the bearings on both pulleys removed and replace them per instructions given here, and have two good spares for next time. God bless you all.
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:09 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Does anyone know what bearing works in the 08+ 3.6L tensioner pulley?
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:37 PM   #43 (permalink)
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They are both SKF 6203-2RSJ for the 3.6L pulleys.

I had two ACDelco 36330 Professional Idler Pulley that I got on amazon for $26/ea. The tensioner is smaller on my 3.6L but I could get the new belt on with the tensioner compressed fully. I didn't like that so I got the Napa SKF bearing. After pressing it in, I like the feel a lot better than the ACDelco which has a good amount of wiggle and will press in a new bearing for my idler.

I don't know where people are getting the $5 bearings. I couldn't find it for at Advance (they tried to sell me one with a metal seal, which doesn't have as good of a seal as the rubber) and NAPA took me for $15. Ebay the cheapest one I see is $10. I see some no-name brands on amazon for $5 but lots of reviews that said they failed.


I'll satisfy my need for immediate gratification by picking up a new one at NAPA tomorrow.
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:59 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Mark and will review again
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Old 06-06-2016, 07:50 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Some pictures of such items could be useful, couldn't them? Have anyone some to post?
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:09 AM   #46 (permalink)
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More info than anyone could possible need is here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...earing-16.html

Plus more threads you can search for.
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:13 AM   #47 (permalink)
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And a good DIY:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...placement.html
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:41 AM   #48 (permalink)
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An articulated ratchet, augmented with a short cheater pipe, makes it easy to work around the coolant hose to rotate/hold the tensioner.
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:20 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Replaced mine last Saturday. 128K miles. 30 minute job. You need a puller set-up (sockets and threaded bar, nuts and washers. Make sure you only press on the outer diameter of the bearings, on the metal only. NOT on the seal. So socket size selection is important.

Both removed bearings were shot and basically seized. New OEM belt installed.

McMaster part number 5972K44
Ball Bearing, Double Sealed, for 17 mm Shaft Diameter, 40 mm OD
$6.18 each plus shipping. Made in S. Korea. Good quality.
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:49 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1988shark View Post
Replaced mine last Saturday. 128K miles. 30 minute job. You need a puller set-up (sockets and threaded bar, nuts and washers. Make sure you only press on the outer diameter of the bearings, on the metal only. NOT on the seal. So socket size selection is important.

Both removed bearings were shot and basically seized. New OEM belt installed.

McMaster part number 5972K44
Ball Bearing, Double Sealed, for 17 mm Shaft Diameter, 40 mm OD
$6.18 each plus shipping. Made in S. Korea. Good quality.
Nice! I replaced the whole assembly ~$60 iirc.
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Old 08-26-2016, 05:42 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Bookmarked for good measure. Thanks guys.
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:05 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Just FYI I had a large socket that fit well and pressed it in in my vice.
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Old 03-03-2017, 03:36 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Replaced tensioner pulley bearing today. Had idler pulley fail dramatically about a year ago resulting in breakdown at roadside. At that time, not knowing any better, I replaced entire pulley. The tensioner pullley at that stage was in good condition. A few days ago, I got a warning that this pulley was about to fail. When turning corner, the steering became heavy and battery light came up. There was also a short squeal from v belt, presumably as it was slipping on the seized pulley. Luckily, the pulley freed itself.

Recognising an imminent pulley failure, I looked at the options.

1. New tensioner - £90 for aftermarket and I would guess £200 for genuine.
2. Just replace pulley. Couldn't find one for sale in UK.
3. Replace bearing only.

After reading this thread, I did 3. So glad I did. £5 for bearing and about 30 mins work to swap over (without a press).
Highly recommended cheap fix for both tensioner and idler pulleys.

I bought SKF 6203-2RSH. Most quote 6203-2RSJ but I couldn't find this. The 2RSH fitted perfectly.
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Old 03-04-2017, 05:37 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Aftermarket tensioner assembly in this case is identical to "genuine". What makes it non-genuine is that the cast-in Fuji logo and OE part number are ground off from the housing.
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Old 03-04-2017, 08:12 AM   #55 (permalink)
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One needs to match the C tolerance classification and the appropriate seal subscript. 'It fits' doesn't imply that it is the going to have the same longevity. Koyo, RTN, SKF are perfered.



What the numbers mean. https://www.slideshare.net/mobile/ch...gnation-system

Last edited by Thomasmryan; 03-04-2017 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 03-04-2017, 12:13 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Ok thanks. You'll see above that I used SKF. From your guide, the 'H' suffix means hardened steel cage as opposed to 'J' which is unhardened so I think that I'll be ok. I think that SKF may have discontinued the 'J' spec bearing as it wasn't listed anywhere.
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Old 05-15-2017, 02:07 PM   #57 (permalink)
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My wife's 2014 Tribeca just started making a horrible ticking noise when idling, that increases with RPM, and makes you think the inside of the engine is going to be seriously damaged.

Started quite suddenly last week, and we haven't moved the car since. I noticed the engine oil was low, filled that up and the overall noise was reduced, but the loudest and most rhythmic ticking is still there (I think topping off the oil just helped with some valve clicking maybe?). The ticking is as reliable as a metronome at idle, so thought maybe spark plugs, valves or cam.

Did a bunch of searching on the internet and videos seemed to show the exact same noise in various Subaru engines including the H6, and usually people were pointing to the timing belt tensioner as the culprit. I wouldn't have thought that something like that would wear out in a vehicle with only 36k miles and is garaged nightly, but I suppose anything is possible.

Now my question is, beyond the horrible racket it makes when driving at speed, should I worry about driving the vehicle? Next stop would be a mechanic, so would only be about 10-15 miles to a Subaru specialty mechanic in the area.
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:48 PM   #58 (permalink)
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The worst case is that the belt will get broken. Your alternator will stop charging the battery, and the car will die eventually. Not sure how long the car can drive on the battery alone.... It's worth the small risk of it going out just like that.

Keep us up to date on the final outcome.
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Old 06-08-2017, 06:27 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I would chance the 10 miles, but don't use that as an excuse to run it weeks before doing it. No telling when it will fail but 10 miles is short.

You could stop a time or three and look for impending doom to be cautious and it should drive without the belt a few miles as said on battery power alone, if worst comes to worse have a utility knife on hand to cut the belt off if needed.
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Old 10-22-2017, 05:16 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Dayco 89007 is 76mm
Dayco 89148 is 82mm

Which is right for an 06-07 EZ30R?

I see discrepancies here as to which to use.
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