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Old 03-15-2017, 04:33 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by avk View Post
I think the reputation of Chrysler A604/41TE transmission is largely due to the fact that service technicians didn't know how to diagnose it properly. I sold my minivan at 182,000 miles and the transmission was fine.
I am on my 3rd one. Everything was fine after the Jasper Transmissions which interestingly enough seems to get mixed reviews. One left me stranded in the middle of the road. Just Redline C+ for me these days changed every 15k miles via drain plug. Lots of other issues with the van. I take such care of it in every possible way. Anyways, didn't mean to deduct from OP's post.
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:34 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by michaelhinchey View Post
Oh haha. I'm not finding it at all. I'm letting the engine installer find it. He has offered to look for it for me and fix any necessary things. He has replaced a few things and even cleaned out some of the solonoids for me. Great guy. I hope he finds it, because that means I have to take this one step further and ask for a different engine. He asked me to leave it with him for a day so he can check further.
How'd it go Mike?
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Old 03-16-2017, 08:55 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Visionary View Post
Repeated leaks despite filter changes suggest that it's not the filter, and new gaskets are not always defect-free.
If you locate where the leak is coming from, that's a big timesaver. Here are some thoughts on sources and how to find them:

Finding it: Clean all oil off well, then spray everything with brake cleaner a couple of times... or three... until there is no evidence of oil. Then get a bright light, start the engine, and look until you can spot something. The problem with driving is that the wind currents push loose fluids all over.

Sources - these are the only options I can think of from the areas you've touched:
  1. Oil cooler gasket defect, like a tear, cut, scratch, or pinhole.
  2. Gasket resting on sealing-surface buildup, if it's not completely clean, or a piece of fuzz or hair that spans the sealing surface path.
  3. Sealing-surface scratch or gouge across the sealing zone.
  4. Hardware hole or crack. Various conditions including pitting corrosion can open a leak-path through an undetected internal defect spot in metals - it's more common in cast steel or aluminum parts. In the case of tubing or metal bellows, the tube wall is thin, and a bellows wall is very thin. Given an external scratch or small tool poke to start working with, a little salt exposure can bore a hole through otherwise "great" looking material... or corrode along a scratch line which can then open a small crack under pressure and vibration conditions with hot/cold cycling.
  5. Imperfectly brazed fitting/joint (oil cooler?) which finally developed a leak path.
Whatever you can narrow the leak down to, closely inspect the area(s) carefully for any signs of those issues above.

On your original question, I have used AMSOIL's oil filters for a decade on numerous vehicles. They've got the most expensive gasket on the market (because it's the highest performing), thick-gauge canister, silicon bypass/anti-drainback valve, nanofiber media with 70% wear rate reduction vs standard filters that's potted into long-life epoxy. For the Tribeca that's an EA15K20 filter, which is recommended for a 1-year or 15,000 mile drain interval (if your oil can handle it). IMO, that IS the best filter on the market, because that's how it's engineered. I'd never use anything else.
I hope this is of some help.
Thank you. Very informative. I will pass this along to the engine guy.
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:14 AM   #24 (permalink)
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OK so I have checked my oil for a few days through two weeks and the oil level hasn't gone down significant enough to tell me it's a heavy leak. However, there are Def signs that tell me otherwise. It doesn't drip and land on the floor or ground. It stays only in a few spots underneath the engine. Most noticibly the oil filter but it's in other spots as well. I have kept the engine cover off to quickly see the underneath so I'm sure wind plays a huge factor in all of this. Any ideas? Is it worth getting looked into?
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:25 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Michael, you're welcome. I'm not familiar with your engine builder guy and what arrangements you have with him, nor the engine history. Compounding my ignorance, I'm just not that familiar with the engine at this point, including the oil cooler's constructed design. So although in a very general sense this level of oil leak is not problematic for a typical car owner (not a car-show or paved-track competitor), that doesn't address the issue of an oil leak specifically in the LUH6DO design.

One thought: pose the "Any ideas?" question and a "how concerned should we be about this?question to your engine builder. Maybe "could it be leaking at the oil pressure sensor?" That keeps him completely in the loop, and gives him the opportunity to inspect, then make a decision and a commitment that he is comfortable with based on his experience.

Of course you have to be careful about the risks of verbal agreements, but I hope that he would at least commit to resolving the problem if it got worse. Then following that, you've got some coverage - I hope. If he says let's just see what happens over the next few months and after the next oil change, and then the leak stays the same or disappears, great. And if it worsens, great - in the sense that he's committed to fixing the problem if it progresses.
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Old 03-27-2017, 05:41 AM   #26 (permalink)
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The most common leaks on the h6 are valve covers, oil cooler adapter, headgaskets, and timing cover. In that order of frequency. Although as these engines age the timing cover leaks are sure to become more common.
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Old 03-27-2017, 01:18 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The most common leaks on the h6 are valve covers, oil cooler adapter, headgaskets, and timing cover. In that order of frequency. Although as these engines age the timing cover leaks are sure to become more common.
It's his headgasket.
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Old 03-27-2017, 05:13 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by michaelhinchey View Post
OK so I have checked my oil for a few days through two weeks and the oil level hasn't gone down significant enough to tell me it's a heavy leak. However, there are Def signs that tell me otherwise. It doesn't drip and land on the floor or ground. It stays only in a few spots underneath the engine. Most noticibly the oil filter but it's in other spots as well. I have kept the engine cover off to quickly see the underneath so I'm sure wind plays a huge factor in all of this. Any ideas? Is it worth getting looked into?
This are the symptoms with our car. I never even bother checking the oil level frequently as the oil loss is negligible. I have since switched from full synthetic to standard and will next buy one with additives for high millage engine in hope of brining some of the seals back to life.

Our engine leaks from the oil pressure sensor seal and I think also from valve cover gasket. I will be changing the oil pressure seal at some point.
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Old 03-28-2017, 08:00 AM   #29 (permalink)
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This are the symptoms with our car. I never even bother checking the oil level frequently as the oil loss is negligible. I have since switched from full synthetic to standard and will next buy one with additives for high millage engine in hope of brining some of the seals back to life.

Our engine leaks from the oil pressure sensor seal and I think also from valve cover gasket. I will be changing the oil pressure seal at some point.
I have had good luck with Pennzoil Conventional High Mileage....at least for reducing consumption.
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:32 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I have had good luck with Pennzoil Conventional High Mileage....at least for reducing consumption.
Pennzoil has been an excellent oil for a very long time. I will be using the Syn-Blend in my "new" Tribeca starting with the next oil change. In a couple thousand miles it will hit 60K and I will be changing out all lubricants.
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Old 03-28-2017, 03:52 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Pennzoil has been an excellent oil for a very long time. I will be using the Syn-Blend in my "new" Tribeca starting with the next oil change. In a couple thousand miles it will hit 60K and I will be changing out all lubricants.
Yep....one quart every 800 miles with Rotella T6 to 1800 miles with the Pennzoil. Was a no brainer. I just use the Edge because of my engine problems....and all of the neat deals you get when you buy it like free movies, extra oil filters for my other vehicles etc. Consumption with the Edge HM is like a quart every 1600 miles. Now I get to keep the RT6 in my FXT where it belongs.
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Old 06-11-2017, 01:45 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Default Meat & Doria Filter

In this oil change i used the Meat & Doria 15096/1 oil filter and Aral High Tronic 5w-40 Oils as usual, very good for our weather conditions.





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Old 06-11-2017, 02:23 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Great tips. Thank you.
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Old 06-12-2017, 01:04 AM   #34 (permalink)
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In last oil change I used the oil Motul 8100 5W-30 and filter Knecht OC500.
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Old 07-05-2017, 04:36 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Hi. I just had an oil change. Has anyone of you used Pennzoil PZ-182 oil filter ? Where can I find the specs of the filter? Thanks in advance.
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