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Old 08-27-2016, 08:15 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thanks - OEM head gaskets used and heads machined. The shop still has the car - Once the HGs were changed they had called me to pickup the car (they had test drove the car and no more overheating problems). I came the next morning to pickup and when they took it out earlier in the morning it was starting to overheat. They then spent an hour burping (alternating between reving and idling and added coolant as needed). When I went to take the the car it overheated after a few minutes and I just turned around and gave it back to the shop.

Last edited by darena4; 08-27-2016 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:07 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Let us know what they find. I suspect they screwed up, but the head might be cracked.

Does it happen that both the gasket goes and the head cracks at the same time?
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:11 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I do hope they took all of the shop towels out of the passages before putting the engine back together.
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Old 08-30-2016, 03:26 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJB View Post
H6 heads never crack? Read this:

Cracked Block? warped heads.
I don't think anyone believs "never" when it comes to engines anything can fail. I was trying to be simple and not qualify everything - i could write a 3 page treatise for every headgasket thread or try to be as helpful and concise as possible.

Subaru non-turbo heads that haven't been significantly overheated, rarely crack, if they do it would be an outlier and not a go-to initial diagnosis or suspicion. It's so uncommon that there's probably a root cause or misdiagnosis. A Subaru non-turbo head that hasn't been significantly overheated with a crack in it - is an outlier.

If you find a cracked non turbo Subaru head you would need to verify that it's never been overheated prior to this event and that the current event didn't have unknown overheating before it was "caught".

So the real question becomes - how badly was this thing overheated? I was assuming by "towed it back" - the poster was inclined to avoid driving it in this condition. but that is a really poor assumption - so that would be a good question to address.

If that were a head on a car I wanted to keep another 100,000+ miles i would have replaced the engine unless i could somehow verify there were no significant overheating events in the life of the vehicle.
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Old 08-30-2016, 01:07 PM   #25 (permalink)
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My wife drives the car as a daily driver and I will usually be driving it on the weekends. I had not noticed any overheating in the past (although if it was just one tick above normal I might not have noticed). When it did start to overheat on our trip I noticed and monitored it until we could pull off the highway (10 minutes) - it went up between 1 and 3 ticks over normal - the overheating warning light never went on. After this it was towed back to my house and then driven 3 minutes to my mechanic (got 1 or 2 tick above normal during this drive) and then was towed to another shop. Hopefully will have an update from the shop it is at now (the one the changed the HG) in the next day or so.
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Old 08-31-2016, 02:08 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Also I bought the car new in 2008 so I have been the only owner and know the engine history up to this point.
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Old 08-31-2016, 06:16 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Have you verified the temp gauge is reading correctly? It could be an indication problem. Just a thought....
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:08 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Just an update on my overheating problem - it is now fixed. In addition to the head gasket needing to be replaced I had a blocked heater core and even though the thermostat was originally replaced it was not opening completely. So the heater core was acid flushed and flow tested and thermostat was replaced again. From what I understand the thermostat needs flow from the "hot side" through the heater core in order for it to function properly (which seems like a bad design). Car is running fine now and temperature gauge does not budge from the middle line.
Thanks everyone for your input.
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:02 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Glad to hear it! There was an issue with the 06 heater core plugging on passenger side if I remember correctly?
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Old 05-04-2017, 03:42 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Hate to revive this thread from the dead but I have a 2006 with a blown head gasket. It is overheating and has significant amounts of oil in the coolant. Oddly, it isn't overheating excessively but it is still cool outside.

The engine has 177K miles on it an my mechanic is hesitant to do the HG job on it. He is concerned that the block surfaces won't be good enough to get a good seal and it will just have more problems soon.

I am considering an engine swap. I can get one for $1200 plus shipping that has about 60K on it. The body is in OK shape but I can see that rust is in its near future.

What do you guys think?

If I do repair or swap, should I have the heater core flushed to be sure it is clear?
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Old 05-04-2017, 08:22 PM   #31 (permalink)
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It is common to swap with a known good H6 for subarus since the head gasket on the H6 is a lot more work than their H4's mainly because of the timing chain and having to remove both chain covers. So it's good advice.

Can't hurt to flush the heater core, but generally if its plugged you have to replace it from inside the cabin. There's a how-to somehwhere on here. I don't think it saves you anything to do it at the same time as the engine.
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Old 05-05-2017, 05:39 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdelker View Post
It is common to swap with a known good H6 for subarus since the head gasket on the H6 is a lot more work than their H4's mainly because of the timing chain and having to remove both chain covers. So it's good advice.

Can't hurt to flush the heater core, but generally if its plugged you have to replace it from inside the cabin. There's a how-to somehwhere on here. I don't think it saves you anything to do it at the same time as the engine.
The big concern I have is with emissions. I am not sure the JDM engines on ebay have all the stuff needed for NY emissions.
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Old 05-05-2017, 10:06 AM   #33 (permalink)
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You can swap over a lot of the exterior stuff, but you do need to know it has all the right bits for the tribeca ECM to control. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can help you. Might try over on subaruoutback.org as they share the same engine.
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Old 05-05-2017, 04:35 PM   #34 (permalink)
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In comparison, Subaru motors have a tight piston to wall clearance so overheating does take its toll. Coolant in the oil galleys is pretty much the kiss of death on the bearing shells also.

It would be wise to seek out a jdm unit with lower mileage and transfer your ancillary controls/hardware. Budget a radiator so history doesn't repeat itself. It's a three ring circus to get the air out so bleed and bip the throttle preferably with the front raised a bit.
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:32 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskymaniac View Post
The big concern I have is with emissions. I am not sure the JDM engines on ebay have all the stuff needed for NY emissions.
they do. same engine. no big deal, it's plug and play and bolts right up.

you can swap your entire intake manifold and hoses onto the JDM if you're ultra concerned.

oil and coolant don't usually mix in that engine. it's probably just dirt built up coagulating or exhaust gases dirty-ing up the mix. but if it is oil and coolant mixing, i'd never want to keep that engine. if I'm not familiar or trust how badly it was overheated, I don't want engines prone to headgasket failures, i'll just buy another one..which does incur a minor risk of course as well.
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