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Old 07-26-2010, 08:34 AM   #41 (permalink)
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It's a 2006 Limited.
Now that I have a few miles on the update (30 to be exact) I can highlight the changes a bit:

1) Engine idles much lower at stops -when air compressor kicks, it increases the idle speed to about double. This can cause surges which feel like rough idle, but it's just in response to the demands of the AC.
Sorry, but no numbers. I think it's from 500 to 1000, but will look closer. Weather's been in the 80's so the compressor is going most of the time.

2) When warmed up, other than #1, engine is so smooth that you don't feel it at all.

3) Car shifts into 1st gear when speed drops somewhere below 10MPH. Usually not noticeable, but can give a "jerk". Again, no problem, just occasional "bump". It doesn't seem to do it now -maybe just needed a few miles to learn my driving pattern.

4) Due to #3, it comes out of turns ready to accelerate. You don't have to press hard on the accelerator to get it to shift down. It's already there. Very smooth. As a matter of fact, it seems to take less pedal pressure to get it to shift down when needed for entering the freeway, etc. It doesn't shift down unless you need it, but just seems smoother when called on.

All in all, if you have not had this done, it would be good idea to have it done. If you're under warrantee, it should have been done...but I don't know.

Last edited by drbrousters; 07-26-2010 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:12 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Default magnet differential plugs at 60,000.

both differentials on my car had a lot of debris on the magnet. I dont think the differential oil had ever been changes.Fairly dirty.

the tranny was dirty too, I did a drain and fill with Subaru brand tranny fluid
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File Type: jpg tribeca differential plug_04 Mar. 11 23.02.jpg (31.0 KB, 142 views)
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:27 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Default Tranny Filter Replacement

The transmission filter was real pain getting off on my 2006 Tribeca. There are 2 ways to get it off. First off, the filter sits between the front driver's side headlight and the front driver's side wheelwell. I found that the first method was easier 1. remove the plastic wheel well cover slightly and just bending it enough to be able to reach you hand in. Once you bend it back a bit you can use a flashlight and locate the filter just below the battery casing. The filter is the screw on type so just screw it off and replace. Mine was really on there good and I had to use big plier to get it off. 2. The other method is a little harder. Remove the battery completely and reach you hand in and feel for the filter. Once located, screw it off and replace. My car took a full 4 litres after flush.
Hope this helps!
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:43 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tribecadean
both differentials on my car had a lot of debris on the magnet. I dont think the differential oil had ever been changes.Fairly dirty.

the tranny was dirty too, I did a drain and fill with Subaru brand tranny fluid
I'm having a hard time to locate the transmission drain plug, could somebody please post photos for the location?

thanks million !!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:07 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allsold
I'm having a hard time to locate the transmission drain plug....
Several problems with this:

1) You didn't identify your year/model.
2) It's likely to be a dealer only part.

Here's one possible site:
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...drain&x=19&y=7

And now for something completely different:
http://www.qwikvalve.com/F-105-20mm-1.5.html

But....this one might be subject to leaking.

Last edited by drbrousters; 08-18-2011 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:34 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allsold
I'm having a hard time to locate the transmission drain plug, could somebody please post photos for the location?

thanks million !!!!!!!!!!!!!
see attached jpg
Cheers
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File Type: jpg ATF drain.jpg (26.5 KB, 167 views)
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:04 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drbrousters
It's a 2006 Limited.
Now that I have a few miles on the update (30 to be exact) I can highlight the changes a bit:

1) Engine idles much lower at stops -when air compressor kicks, it increases the idle speed to about double. This can cause surges which feel like rough idle, but it's just in response to the demands of the AC.
Sorry, but no numbers. I think it's from 500 to 1000, but will look closer. Weather's been in the 80's so the compressor is going most of the time.

2) When warmed up, other than #1, engine is so smooth that you don't feel it at all.

3) Car shifts into 1st gear when speed drops somewhere below 10MPH. Usually not noticeable, but can give a "jerk". Again, no problem, just occasional "bump". It doesn't seem to do it now -maybe just needed a few miles to learn my driving pattern.

4) Due to #3, it comes out of turns ready to accelerate. You don't have to press hard on the accelerator to get it to shift down. It's already there. Very smooth. As a matter of fact, it seems to take less pedal pressure to get it to shift down when needed for entering the freeway, etc. It doesn't shift down unless you need it, but just seems smoother when called on.

All in all, if you have not had this done, it would be good idea to have it done. If you're under warrantee, it should have been done...but I don't know.
drbrousters - I had my transmission reflashed (supposedly) on my 2008 a few months ago at a subaru dealership. Unfortunately, it did not correct the hard shift problem whet going into or coming out of 1st gear (your #3 above). It seems to reliably occur around 15 mph when in non-sport mode. You seemed to have luck in getting this corrected. Do you have any info on what software version they flashed your tranny too or any other info from your non-dealer shop with respect to what they did to fix this? Thanks
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:45 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianm
The transmission filter was real pain getting off on my 2006 Tribeca. There are 2 ways to get it off. First off, the filter sits between the front driver's side headlight and the front driver's side wheelwell. I found that the first method was easier 1. remove the plastic wheel well cover slightly and just bending it enough to be able to reach you hand in. Once you bend it back a bit you can use a flashlight and locate the filter just below the battery casing. The filter is the screw on type so just screw it off and replace. Mine was really on there good and I had to use big plier to get it off. 2. The other method is a little harder. Remove the battery completely and reach you hand in and feel for the filter. Once located, screw it off and replace. My car took a full 4 litres after flush.
Hope this helps!
pretty sure you dont have to ever change the tranny filter unless its damaged. but hey, better safe than sorry.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:28 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Has anyone done a transmission flush themselves? I've seen video's on youtube for other vehicles where they just undo the supply line, start the engine pumping the fluid into a bucket as you fill the transmission with new fluid, so you don't run it dry. I know my dealer flushes the transmission for $135.00 plus fluid, they don't just a drain and fill. I've flushed my wife's Eclipse transmission a few years ago and it was pretty simple.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:48 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjb242
Has anyone done a transmission flush themselves? I've seen video's on youtube for other vehicles where they just undo the supply line, start the engine pumping the fluid into a bucket as you fill the transmission with new fluid, so you don't run it dry. I know my dealer flushes the transmission for $135.00 plus fluid, they don't just a drain and fill. I've flushed my wife's Eclipse transmission a few years ago and it was pretty simple.
I would not ever flush this trans. Flushing it will stir up all sorts if gunk you can never get completely out. Just drain and fill. Takes 5 min. I use full synthetic. Do it every 6 months if you feel the need but don't flush it. IMHO. My Tribeca has 90k+ and still shifts better than my '11 Outback with 17k miles. But that's another story for a different thread. Lol.
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Old 02-16-2014, 11:06 AM   #51 (permalink)
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The owner 's manual says that you should use a specific type of atf or you'll void the warranty. That could be bunk but it's likely for a good reason. For example my XT6 requires ONLY factory power steering fluid or the system WILL fail. The Tribeca manual lists two alternate commercial products but I can't find them at the parts store.

What ATF do you use? I don't have a warranty to consider obviously, but I want to make sure I use the right type so as not to mess up my tranny.
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Old 02-17-2014, 06:23 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I buy mine from the dealer and ask for a discount on a case. $6.50 a qt. Takes 12 qts to do a full flush. You can use the guide here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...DIY+ATF+change

You unhook the hose from the transmission cooler and use it to pump out 2 qts of ATF at a time, replacing as you go. Drain the pan first, then fill it, then start the swap out.
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:15 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mravil View Post
drbrousters - I had my transmission reflashed (supposedly) on my 2008 a few months ago at a subaru dealership. Unfortunately, it did not correct the hard shift problem whet going into or coming out of 1st gear (your #3 above). It seems to reliably occur around 15 mph when in non-sport mode. You seemed to have luck in getting this corrected. Do you have any info on what software version they flashed your tranny too or any other info from your non-dealer shop with respect to what they did to fix this? Thanks


ONLY TWO YEARS LATER:

No I don't know what software version they used. They said, at the time, it was the latest. Since that time, the car runs great.
The only problem with this car, very little after-market parts (including wiper blades) and parts are NOT cheap.

While I love the car after multiple trips over 4 mountain passes in all kinds of weather, there is one reason I will never buy another Subaru:
TIRES.
I had one go bad (alignment problem) and had to replace all 4. That is the Subaru rule -all tires must be equal in tread pattern and treadwear, otherwise you will likely develop differential problems.

Again, I love the car.

1) It rides better than any car I've ever owned. It's amazing on packed snow and ice (Goodyear TripleTreds RULE).
2) It has more than enough power (3.0 6cyl).
3) It doesn't complain and even seems to thrive when driving 85 in Montana.
4) All the gadgets and comfort items

BUT...

Gas mileage is not good to downright awful, depending on where and how fast you drive.
The tires (as mentioned).
Factory only parts on many items.
$600 to change spark plugs.
Poor design for most routine maintenance -access to stuff can be a nightmare.
No way to upgrade the sound system head unit. Need a work-around for blue tooth.

Would I do it again?
Yes. For what I paid (used), it was a steal. New...not so much, but for a similarly equipped vehicle it may be OK or even a great buy.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:09 AM   #54 (permalink)
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We've been very happy with our Tribeca. I can relate to some of your issues, but many have easy work arounds.

Tires-if one is bad look for a single used replacement on eBay or Craigslist.

Wipers-they make inexpensive snap to fit blades and can be changed in 10 minutes.

Gas mileage-I'm pretty happy with getting 21mpg on a heavy awd SUV.

Maintenance costs-it's a good idea to find a good local shop instead of dealers. I had the plugs changed in out car for $150. And I guess I'm used to working on Subarus. They're not that tough to work on but it can be frustrating.

I can absolutely agree with the annoyance of the integrated head unit. No easy changes there.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:43 AM   #55 (permalink)
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drbrousters - In terms of tires, aside from purchasing second-hand, you can also have a new replacement shaved-down to-spec.
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:54 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TSiWRX View Post
drbrousters - In terms of tires, aside from purchasing second-hand, you can also have a new replacement shaved-down to-spec.
Interesting approach...would have saved me several hundred dollars. The replacements were passenger vehicle tires, while the originals were a truck tire -that was supposed to increase the gas mileage. I haven't seen it. But, I love the tires (Goodyear TriplTred).

Again, I REALLY like this car. I had to drive about 300 miles in pack and blowing snow (part of a 700 mile trip home from Montana). The car performed flawlessly; straight down the road, stopping was no problem, ride was smooth despite some ruts. There is no other car I've owned that I'd have, under those circumstances, felt as comfortable. Too bad they are done with them after this year. Hope I can keep mine running for another 200,000 miles (90,000 now).
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:29 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Getting back to the Thread topic (tires really belong elsewhere): The issue with "flush and fill" (versus the safer "drain and fill somewhat more often") is the sudden introduction of 100% brand new fluid with lots of cleaning chemicals in it. A mix of old and new ATF, via "drain and fill", is less likely to break off and dissolve big chunks of "gunk" all at once. Instead, the behavior of the mix is slower "re-mix and re-disolve" within the fluid mixture.
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Old 01-06-2015, 07:43 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickst29 View Post
Getting back to the Thread topic (tires really belong elsewhere): The issue with "flush and fill" (versus the safer "drain and fill somewhat more often") is the sudden introduction of 100% brand new fluid with lots of cleaning chemicals in it. A mix of old and new ATF, via "drain and fill", is less likely to break off and dissolve big chunks of "gunk" all at once. Instead, the behavior of the mix is slower "re-mix and re-disolve" within the fluid mixture.
I would ask for some credible source that backs up this theory. I've seen it bantered about over the years going back about 20 years. But I have never seen any manufacture of cars or fluid back up this claim.

To me it sounds similar to urban legend.
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Old 01-10-2015, 08:34 PM   #59 (permalink)
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I'm strictly repeating oft-told internet rumors.
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:44 PM   #60 (permalink)
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It's great for shade-tree mechanics to advise people how to do things, but shops and manuals can be held reponsible if they give wrong information or don't do it as recommended...and a problem develops. I'd rather someone giving me advice had to answer to it if they're wrong.
Do it by the book.
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